Can someone tell me what the compression should be on a1999 Vanguard 6x6 with a 16hp Vangaurd motor.thI can't find a number anywhere. I took a reading today and got 85psi on both cylinders and that seems low to me. Most of my atv's run about 120psi. If it is to low it will just be another thing to add to my long list of thiings needed to get fixed.
I let the machine warm up for a while and tested it again. Back cylinder held 70psi and front was 50 psi. Now I know I gave a problem. I did a leak down test and it held the press until I released it. So now I'm thinking piston or rings. I wanted to upgrade the engine so maybe I should now. What can I put in that will be an easy swap? I would like more power for hills so if I can find a 20hp Vangaurd twin cam will that fit right in? Does anyone know where I would be able to pick up a 18 or 20hp Vangaurd twin cam engine ?I new when I bought an Argo I was going to have a lot of maintaining to do with it but I thought I would get some riding time in before I had to replace almost everything on it. I know with 2 strokes low compression is death I've seen it with my Honda Odyssey's but I don't think it's the end with a 4 stroke. I'm hoping to get this winter out of it before I have to replace the engine and chains .
Vanguards are hard to get a proper compression test done because of the compression release. If you did a leak down test that passed I'd think you're good.
As far as I know all the small block Vanguards are single camshaft engines and any rating under 23hp should be the same block though I've never seen a 22, generally until you hit 23 all the horizontal engines are even numbers though John boy has a 21. The best bang for the buck is the Bandolero racing engines which is an ungoverned 20 but getting used to that takes a minute or 2. Again most of your issues should be the transmission ratio and most notably when climbing. Though the H is fast it's not very good on hills if you are in a hurry, it will do it in high but there is a learning curve, if you use low range the engine and clutches will work better through the rpm range.
A 23 will have more torque to pull you up the hill but you have to deal with the exhaust adaption issue, good thing is you have a fairly simple manifold to make.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
ARGO JIM. After I posted it hit me when doing the compression test I had the throttle closed. Tomorrow I'll do another with it open and that could raise it by 25 percent. With the engine swap I'm really not looking for more speed I'm fine with how fast it goes but what I want us the power to make it up some of the hills on the trails I ride. I think nothing of the hills when I'm on one of my atv's or side by sides but it's a different story if I'm going to take the Argo on them. I've watched tons of videos with 6x6 but almost all are on flat ground or in the mud I really haven't seen any taken on a big hill.
I have the same machine and where I ride there are steep technical hills all over the place it does just fine with 2 people and a load of logs in the back and gear strapped to it everywhere. The key is to go slow and let the clutch keep the engine in the power range
LmaoOriginally Posted by Facemelter
I just wrote a long thing explaining this before the site timed me out. You are right on.
It will not feel natural at first but trust us it works, most of my climbing in Troy area on Armenia Mt was 2 adults 2 kids, Tennessee was 2 adults all in high and my brother had his 14hp there. He had the same issue and the tried this and climbed right up.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
I'll add I believe 1/2-2/3 throttle is also the optimal pulse range for the fuel pump.
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.
I have found on mine that keeping the throttle between 1/2 to 3/4 it has plenty of pulling power even with a weak smoking engine.
As for the compression, if the leak down test is holding the pressure you have really do not have a problem, bad rings or valves will not hold pressure. And remember the engine has a built in compression release for easy cranking so you are not going to build a high compression reading. In the Briggs manual it clearly states they do not give compression numbers, the only concern is cylinder balance, each cylinder should be within 5 or so percent of each other.
So I rechecked my compression today with the throttle open and was a lot better. Rear was 150 and the front was 110psi. I did find I have a bad ignition coil though. This could be whats causing a lot of my problems like it shutting down after a while and hard time getting it to idle right. I just ordered 2 new coils so I'll change them both out when I get them. I did get my bracket for the wench so I have to put that on then pick up a wench. I'm not sure yet which wench to get I don't want to spend to much on it because of how much I've already put into it plus going to have to replace the chains this spring. I think I'm going to put the swapping of the engine for a larger one on hold . I want to get it running good and see what the 16hp engine can do maybe I'll be happy with it. Like I said I'm fine with the speed I was just worried about if it had the power for some big hills .
Cheapest you can go with a winch is a 2000 lb hand crank come-a-long. Along as you have a tow loop at the front, a receiver at the back, a couple straps and shackles, and a boat anchor you will be able to get out of anywhere. It's just a little slow to use. But it will never fail. I had a winch blow up on me ones and I carry a come-a-long all the time now because of that. Also my winch is permanently mounted on the front and some times it's just easier to go backwards and try again.
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