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I took a few rides around the yard, looked under at the bottom of the tub, now I have a chain size rip in the bottom of the tub. One of the first things I did, even before I drove it 6 inches, was check the chain tensioners. All the long chains were loose. This was done with all the tires off the ground. So all the chains were adjusted. One thing I noticed was that the chain tensioner on the chain that caused the rip was all the way down, and the chain was totally loose. Did I over tighten the chain, and the tensioner give way with such force that it tore the bottom? So much for swimming any time soon. The other issue was, I went to drain the gas tank and the plug broke clean off! Any thoughts on how to extract the remains of the plug? I have heard some mention of plastic welding on some of the comments, how does that work? What about some thick glue or resin filler, or plastic cement? Any thoughts would be appiacated, this tub rip just floored me.
you should be able to use a left handed drill bit or an easy-out to remove the remnants of that drain plug. I have very minimal experience with plastic welding but as I understand it, the procedure differs depending on what your tub is made of. Im sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in pretty quick
Those old style chain adjusters are bad about popping loose and causing damage like that.You can upgrade to the newer style chain adjusters to solve that problem.The plastic welding is not that hard.You can get a plastic welder cheap at harbor freight.I have fixed worst with a small hand torch but that takes a little practice.Someone may have a good plastic tank for sale.
Thanks for the encouragement! This site, and forums are great! I have been mining them to see what other have done and I think I have some ideas. I have some black plastic barrels for donor material and to practice with. I've seen videos on using a plastic welder but not using just a heat gun. If I cut the barrel in thin strips would the heat gun melt it enough? I think I would still need something hot to press and work the plastic with. Anyone use a hobby iron? or a house clothes iron? just wondering and trying to think this all through before buying stuff that I might not need. The new style chain tensioners look like they would work much better, a roller rather than a slide. Is richard relics and RI the only place to buy parts? Can't seem to find any others.
Are you sure that rip wasn't already in there? It looks like the chain broke one time and wrapped around the sprocket? That or something was in the tub and got caught in the chain.
The left handed drill should work. Maybe you could put a chisel on the inside edge and hammer it loose being careful you dont gouge through the plug and into the tanks threads.
I have used a soldiering iron before on the plastic welding. I have also used a propane torch with extreme care though because it will get to hot real quick so use distance.
Use Richards relics with extreme care. I would go RI instead and help support a AATV manufacturer. Other then finding them used there is no other places.
I'm 95% sure that rip wasn't there when I bought it. I looked very close at the bottom. I've got the max jacked up, and looked at that side chain tensioner and its seems to be coming apart. The good news is that I got the broken plug out with an extractor.
A question about the starter, sometimes when I turn the key the starter spins but doesn't engage the motor. Usually after a few trys it catches and turns over the motor. Is this a starter problem or soleniod problem or something else?
As for the plastic repairs, I'm thinking about a heat gun to soften up the area, then using a red hot old wide screwdriver to work the plastic. Think it will work?
Sounds like the starter gear is sticky. I bet if you take it off and clean and oil the gear/shaft it will work good for you. The shaft on the starter is helixed so that when it starts spinning it should spin the gear up and engage on the flywheel gear. The starter or connections could possibly be bad maybe making the starter spin slower so the gear couldnt fling out I guess but I doubt it. Maybe using a dry graphite lube would be better? I just lube them and never have any other problems. If it was mine I would do that first and go from there. The hot screwdriver would work but you can get a soldering iron pretty cheap and would save some hassle. I was just looking at them at Radio Shack and you can get a 15 or 30 watt under $10. I think it was a 40 watt one for $10.99 Im sure you can get them cheaper yet at harbor freight. But if you dont plan on repairing it much the hot screwdriver will work.
Max II 009.jpgMax II 010.jpgThanks for the tip on the starter, I will try that. I got the gas tank refurbished and the tub fixed, so things are moving along. Next I will tackle a front bearing replacement. The previous owner replaced it with a regular bearing about a month ago, and it is already loose.
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Still want a Max IV
