Shifting Gears in a Max II

[katoom08]

Hi. I was playing with the max in the yard today trying to get used to the sticks. It was fun but it sure tears up the yard. I seem to be having trouble getting into Forward and reverse from neutral. It seems as if the clutches never stop spinning so when I try to shift it wants to grind. Am I not useing enough finess? or is there a trick I need to know? Is the torque converter need adjustment? I feel like if this continues I will do some damage.

Arlen

[rdr]

Originally Posted by katoom08

Hi. I was playing with the max in the yard today trying to get used to the sticks. It was fun but it sure tears up the yard. I seem to be having trouble getting into Forward and reverse from neutral. It seems as if the clutches never stop spinning so when I try to shift it wants to grind. Am I not useing enough finess? or is there a trick I need to know? Is the torque converter need adjustment? I feel like if this continues I will do some damage.

Arlen

all t20 do: it some times it shifts easy some times it a dog .

[katoom08]

Thanks RDR !

I was afraid I was doing damage. It seems like the belt should stop turning so the gears would mesh.

[racerone3]

i don't even have an operational machine with a t-20 yet, but mike told me a litle trick a few weeks back when i was running his max 2. use 1 hand to slap both laterals back while using the other to shift. you basically want the laterals to be bouncing back and forth while trying to shift. this will allow the gears to keep turning and get lined up, but slow the drums down enough that they find their happy place at a lower speed and with a lot less grinding

[rdr]

Originally Posted by racerone3

i don't even have an operational machine with a t-20 yet, but mike told me a litle trick a few weeks back when i was running his max 2. use 1 hand to slap both laterals back while using the other to shift. you basically want the laterals to be bouncing back and forth while trying to shift. this will allow the gears to keep turning and get lined up, but slow the drums down enough that they find their happy place at a lower speed and with a lot less grinding

thanks race i should have gone into more detel . robbie

[Eldon]

When I got my Max II I was discouraged about the shifting until I received a few tips.My machine only had 28 hours on it and I was told until fully broke in it would be cumbersome.Beyond that try not to shift immediately after turn but rather when the machine has been going straight for a foot or so,when shifting to forward pull both sticks back with one hand,maybe a rev or two on the engine then as pushing the shift lever down release the sticks to spring forward and it should smoothly drop in forward.When shifting to reverse,pull both sticks back a fair distance and while holding them back put shift lever in reverse.Sometimes when shifting into either forward or reverse it seems necessary to give the engine a couple of revs and going in reverse seems easier if while holding levers back,pull back slightly more on one than the other,I pull back more on the right than the left,seems to work for me.The T-20 is what it is,it seems it is we operators that have to get synchronized a little.
Eldon

[katoom08]

Thanks for the advice Race and Eldon. I will just have to force myself to practice more !!

Arlen

[Hey_Dan78]

Check to see if the engine clutch is open all the way when the engine is idling. If not there may be a problem with the clutch or the engine idle speed may be too high.

[carrant]

In my RI Buffalo I had a heckuva time shifting until I installed the "easy shift" kit from Richard's Relics.

After the installing shift kit, shifting went from "a battle" to "hot knife through butter"...

For the Buffalo, I believe the kit was $65.

Welcome to Richard's Relics Parts for ATV's


chris