2008 Max 2 questions from a nube

[Ezduzit]

Gents, I just bought a little used, low hours Max 2 and I have some questions concerning modifications for it. It has the 16 hp Briggs engine.
1. How would chains work instead of tracks? Seems to be an easy install for the front and rear tires, proper fit and clearance would seem to be easy. Has anyone done this and if so, how well did it work?
2. Access to the engine compartment:
I’ve read about the ‘top cut out/refit method here. What about cutting across the whole top piece from right behind where the rollbar is, completely across the back allowing completely lifting off that part only undoing 7 wing nuts and disconnecting the tail lights?

Would much appreciate any and all advice and comments, thanking you all in advance for them.

[Delduck]

If you sell the tracks for the 2 let me know

[Ezduzit]

Didn’t mean to mislead. I don’t have tracks. Just trying to find if others here may have used chains and about the rear body mod I mentioned.

[tbone9]

I’ve got a friend who ran chains on the back of his MaxII and said it helped considerably. More room on the back tire for chains. Still won’t be as good as tracks but should help.

[hipowerone]

I have to wonder what "additional traction" on one axle/tire will do to bearings, chains & turning ability???

[garretttpe]

Hi EZDuzit
I would install the red spring on the driven clutch, it will keep you in low range longer but top end and acceleration will not be effected, you will see a big differance.
Also do a split shift, look on here or the other 6x6 site for info.

[Ezduzit]

Gents, thanks, I’m going to install the chains on the front and give it a go. I figured engine weight in the back would help enough there. This Max is most always used in the southern swamps so a little extra traction I’m thinking will help.

Does anyone have any comments or advice on my asking about the rear portion of the top section being halved for easy and full access to the engine and rear drive parts? Anyone?

Much appreciate you guys and sharing your collective experience. Saves a lot of misfires and wasted effort for a nube, I’ll tell ya.

[john swenson]

i think you can modify any way you like for easy access as long as it does'nt effect the strength or lets water in . i cut my front floorboard in 2 pieces and it is much easier to remove but still works fine. seems if you cut all the way across the tub part right behind the seat back .. then you could remove that whole back section to do your work by undoing the wing nuts . then put it back when done . i would sure think that the lower tub is plenty strong even if there is a cross cut in the tub top. there are guys who don't even have the tub top on their machines . i may do the rear on mine and i will let you know. the only thing i see about that is you got wires to the tailites you would need to modify and if you want to raise the front of the tub you would need a way to hold it up when lifted. just a few thoughts... i will look at mine this weekend and see if it's feasable. johnboy va.

[Ezduzit]

John boy, many thanks. It’s parked in the woods right now having spent all day in it putting up deer stands. Upon returning from an immediate road trip I’m gonna get on it pretty quick and will come back with what I do to the back of the top works. Much appreciate your passing on about the floor pan. Briefly thought I should do something with it cause when taking it out this evening I managed to dump most of the twigs and leaves down in the bottom. I know I’m preaching to the choir on that!

[monkstr6100]

Are you talking about just chains on SINGLE wheels, or wrapping a long set (possible 2 semi truck chains linked together) all the way around all 3 tires on each side? I would think the chains on all 3 tires, both sides, would work great. And be less strain on the drive train due to more play in the chains? Or at least link the 2 fronts, or 2 backs, on each side. Now I think I may be looking for some tire chains.....