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Take the carb apart and make sure the float needle is attached to the float. I was putting my carb back together on my briggs and the float needle came off the float and fell the the float needle hole. With it not hooked to the float it created very hard starting conditions due to extra pressure on the needle.
place an inline fuel cut off valve real close to the carb and after you have it running and want to shut down for a while turn the valve off and let it set for a while. Turn the valve back on after a while and see if it'll start. This should settle the back siphon theory one way or the other.
hi Wheeler ,
Is the motor out of the warranty period
If no return carb
If yes clean out carb ,
Does the float, float in a jar of fuel eg holed???
set float level
The needle and seat [where the float is connected to ] blow out with compressed air and carby cleaner [this turns fuel on/off ]
remove all jets emulsion tubes etc blast with carb cleaner and mild compressed air
Buggyman, Good idea. I have not checked that end of the fuel line yet. I will do that tomorrow. Larry it's the opposite - Pre started engine when warm starts great, cold don't wanna start unless throttle pulled in full.
Tomo - yes it's out of warranty. And after I look at the line going from the mechanical pump to the carb to see if that is plugged. I will investigate checking out the carb. Thanks
Buggyman, I checked the line going from the mechanical pump to the carb and it is free and flows good. I sprayed a very little starting fluid into the carb and it starts right up no problem. So it's gotta be something with the carb. I am a little hesitant to remove the carb being it is brand new. There is only one adjustment on the carb that I know of and that is the idle speed adjustment. If I do take the carb off I would like to do some research before tearing into it.
It's very possible that, like Jim wrote, the fuel is just boiling out of the carb from the engine heat. My 16 is hard to start after it sits more than a week and has excessive crank time to fill the bowl.
Anyone who has had carb problems on the trail can attest to how hot the carb gets when running.
You may want to wait a couple weeks and see if the cooler temps help at all.
Another heat related problem may be the muffler itself, if it is mounted high and about 6 inshes off the carb, a secondary heat shield may help with the carb body temps.
Does the governor hold it wide open when its not running? I have had a few garden tractors with an old Briggs 14hp cast iron and my 14hp cast iron Kohler both won't start unless the throttle is on idle. Once it starts only tuns on idle. Thinking extra pressure from butter fly acts like choke sucking more fuel. Actually idle with butterfly not just throttle control. Maybe you can see if it is or not and try that. I would think the fuel bulb would eliminate the fuel evaporation theory.
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