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I have a 96 Max IV with the double hulls. I have searched on here and haven't found much on this. My issues are with the one on the back. The way it is designed and riveted with the lip facing the front makes it prone to catch things like mud, sticks, etc. and become separated from the main hull, which is what has happened on more than one occasion. When this happens, it is like a brake when you are going through mud or water. I have tried to re-rivet with the waterproof rivets but once it is pulled out, the hole is too large to accommodate the rivet. I actually used a small stainless bolt with washers and silicon which has been working for a while now but now there is another place that is starting to do it. If it weren't for so many rivet holes to worry about sealing, I would probably just take the whole rear double hull off. I really dont know how useful the rear double hull is anyway. With mine it is definitely doing more harm than good. Has anyone out there taken theirs off? Any other suggestions?
No idea if this would work, but would it be possible to fill the gap between the two in such a way that it no longer caught stuff? Maybe a thin piece of plastic welded to both?
Hmm.. That may be a possibility. But the main areas of concern are in the curves so I would probably have to mold a piece of plastic to approximately the same contours as well. And if I were to get into molding and welding the plastic, I would probably just take my chances with removing the double hull and covering/welding all the rivet holes. I really wish it was a one piece double hull that covered the entire bottom like argo. I really dont see how they wouldn't expect this design to be a problem. I cringe every time I hit a root or stump and come to a complete stop.
Max 4 bodies are very thin at the bottom front and rear. I would not recommend removing the skid plate. I used an old 4 tub to make a middle section skid plate and it works very well.
Buggyman, I think that is exactly what I need to do! I think that would work. As soon as I get some time, Ill tackle this project and maybe post some pics. THANKS!
OK. Here's another idea that might be simpler to implement. What if you took some plastic that is as thick as the gap, then tapered one end of it, stuck it in the gap so that the taper sticks out and makes the transition, then either weld, screw, or rivet into place? The corners would still not be protected, but you have nearly complete coverage.
phabib, something like that may work as well. Does anyone know how difficult it is to find HDPE in sheets? Might there be a retailer that would keep that sort of thing in stock or would it most likely need to be ordered?
You can typically find a plastic shop near you that carries HDPE if you don't want to order it online. I just used Google to find a shop in the next town over. They ordered me a full sheet of black HDPE since they didn't have one in stock and they didn't charge me any shipping. You may want to give that a try and just see what's close by to you.
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