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I have just put 8 new Argo (Carlisle) 25 inch tires on my 2005 Avenger and have a pair of Chanel Tracks from Marcel up in Quebec.
What is the proper tire pressure to use with these? I have all the instructions for installing such as taking valve stems out, using a ratcheting strap to tighten, but curious if I should inflate to standard 5 all around with the tracks?
I run 5 psi in all tires, assuming you size/index them properly. If you want to split hairs you can make the front 5 psi and the rear 6 psi, but sizing/indexing takes priority. With an elevated-belt track like the channel track, you can use your large pair or small pair of tires on the corners, even without track tuners installed. Other track styles only allow this if the tuners are used. With the channel-style track, the center tires (if left connected) will always overdrive the track, even if the smaller pair is placed in the center. Just make #2 the larger than #3, and make the front axle tire slightly smaller than the rear-axle tire when you mount them up. If you want to go one step further make the front 5 and the rear 6 psi like argo recommends. Swapping the small pair and the large pair from the center axles to the corners....will allow you to tighten or loosen your track a bit w/o physically cutting it to adjust. I don't know how perfect or imperfect your particular track was built, so that's just a side-note. Swapping tire pairs like this can be done on other tracks too, but tuners are mandatory to do so.
Using the tuners will free up additional power though so you can take full advantage of your gear-reduction track and will prevent your CVT system from always trying to gear you down....to provide the power necessary to slip the center tires. Simply disconnect them instead, and you'll see better performance, fuel mileage, speed (especially in high range), less load on the center chains/axles/bearings, and reduced tire tread wear.
chain windup happens even without running tracks. The ground can provide resistance to tires turning or can even act upon other tires depending on machine speed, trying to make them rotate faster than the chains are driving them on the inside of the machine. Chains load and unload and provide resistance in your drivetrain. Just remember it's not a side effect of simply running tracks, nor is breaking axles. You just want the correct side of each chain to see the load in the forward direction 99% of the time (in a perfect world because that's what we do most of the time). So that's why we index the tires. It becomes more important with tracks as it's easier on the machine to have center tires overdrive the track, than it is to have certain tires be forced to rotate (via the track) faster than the chains inside are trying to drive them.
So with tracks, you always want the tires (3 of them anyway) to slightly overdrive the track, not the other way around. This keeps the chains loaded properly. Using tuners allows this to happen without the additional "power suck" and increased load from the center tires peeling out.
At any rate, aggressive driving and higher throttle zero-point type high-friction turning (with tracks or without) is a recipe for disaster and should also be avoided if at all possible.
So, track tuners help, HD components help, driving style helps. To state the obvious of course, but hopefully it helps.
Thanks Buzz, that is great info and very helpful I already drive very gently in terms of limiting speed (such as it is), using low range a lot and avoiding hard lock turns but I will measure each tire and follow your suggestions. The cost of 8 new tires pushed the tuners into next year's budget planning according to the CFO of our house....
Hi there. I just bought a 2004 argo avenger and I am going to buy a set of channel tracks for it. Is it advised to use them year round on all types of terrain and should I install tuners or is it not necessary for this type of track system?
I can't write a short answer
yes, all season track
tuners are not mandatory on elevated belt tracks (like the channel or escargo), but you will see a power savings (and full benefit of the gear reduction) if you install tuners. This will prevent wasting power to slip the center tires...prior to the interior center-axles/sprockets/chains transferring power to the corner axles. The corner axles ultimately drive the track, and the track won't turn unless they are driving. Disconnecting the center hub flange from the center wheels themselves (with tuners) eliminates the "power suck" or "extra load" that must be overcome 100% of the time (even on flat ground) before the corner tires drive the track.
Without tuners, our machines are geared plenty low enough (and they have CVT primary/secondary clutch system that adjusts for load) to slip the center tires and drive the track w/o a problem, you'll just sacrifice top end speed, while increasing fuel burn and increasing engine temps more if tuners are not used.
Tuners prevent giving back any of your "gear reduction" advantage from the elevated belt track and make high range much more usable.
Slipping the tires and failing to drive the track is a non-issue with an elevated-belt grouser track, even if the track is loose "and" tuners are used...because both corner axles remain driven and the grousers are able to "side load" the tire lugs for positive engagement. The grousers themselves are moveable (while guide is fixed-position on belt) and able to nestle-in between tire lugs. It's a track that's taylor made for track tuner use, power savings, and reliable driving.
I'm biased if you can't tell
I use my Chanel tracks all year. Everyone that I show my rig to always asks if I take them off in summer, my answer is always: when I want to go through H** I use the Argo, If not I just take the Quad. I love the whole setup, with tuners you do not need to worry about indexing and pressures near as much. One other thing I did and fully recommend are the Flexco 550 hinges to join the tracks, they make install and removal quicker. The Hinges also roll nicer than the belt overlap. When I would drive fast when it was colder than -20*C with the overlap it would stay stiffer than the rest of the belt and when the lap would come around the rear tire, the odd time the track would tick the tub. As soon as I installed the hinges it was easier to turn the tracks by hand and when driving there also was also a noticeable difference. In my opinion the Chanels are the best value for the $$$
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