Year Built & Advise about 8x8 Response

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Thread: Year Built & Advise about 8x8 Response

  1. #1

    Year Built & Advise about 8x8 Response

    Just found this forum. We bought a used 8x8 Response last summer and I was curious if someone could tell me the year built and offer any advise about what we have found. The guy we bought it from said it was from the mid to late 90's (I read where someone on this forum was able to tell the build date and date sold from the serial number). Anyone know an approximate cost when it was new?

    S/N: RB13578
    Model: V896-65

    Upon inspection it looks like someone has added a bunch of extra wiring and rigged up some sort of kill switch for all accessory power. The winch and brake blower will only work if the key is in the ignition and turned to the right (though engine doesn't need to be started) and this switch in on. This seems to be hooked to a separate fuse than what I assume was the original way to turn these accessories on and off. I've got what I assume are the factory knob like on off switches that don't seem to do anything now. Should the brake blower always be running when the Argo is started? I think yes. Before we noticed this extra switch the guys were driving it here with no brake fan. How do I figure out what all the original pull knobs were supposed to do, as any markings seem to be worn off (obviously I have figured out the choke and headlights). I believe the accessory switch was installed to keep the accessories from running down the battery when the argo was idle or the engine was off. The alternator doesn't appear to charge the battery unless you are moving, is this correct? Seems like you would want power from an alternator when using the winch, not just the battery alone...

    We had the Argo tuned up and some brake issue fixed when we bought it. It was grinding when changing from forward/neutral/reverse and stalling while idle, and had a brake problem that I am not exactly sure about (wasn't present myself for this). Looks like they replaced one of the calipers and a brake cylinder (found the parts). This was working great, but sometime this spring I believe the other brake cylinder failed. We now have to pull one of the brake levers down nearly to the seat to turn, where the other only moves a few inches before the brake engages. Is it common to have brake issues? The engine has 84.4 hrs on it, probably 1/3 we put on since we bought it last summer. I have no idea on the maintenance history on this thing, other than I know it had some basic repairs and an oil change after we bought it. Is there anything I should look for? I was able to find the owners manual on the Argo website and a ODG parts manual off of google. We seem to get a bit of water (sometimes ankle deep) after a short while crossing rivers and ponds. It is not clear where this is coming from exactly. Is this normal or should the Argo be more or less water tight?

    There is a bunch of threads on this forum about chain problems and ripping Argos apart for repairs and rebuilds. How many hours or how harsh of an environment are we talking here for these type of repairs? We mostly use the Argo to move equipment through swamps and to cross ponds and small rivers.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Tulsa, OK
    Posts
    1,725
    The only factory knobs are choke and headlights. No other switches or holes are stock. Maybe a factory option bilge pump..

    From the factory, the fan runs off the key. Some of us put it on a separate switch to cut current draw.. as you discovered there's no alt output at idle. The fan is rated at 8 amps and the vanguard 18 max output is 15 or so.

    When all the seals/brgs and drain plugs are in good shape, it shouldn't leak one drop of water. It can leak past the body seam/rubber a little.

    All the drivetrain under the floor boards, how it's kept, clean, lubed, and inspected, or neglected, ... running chains in mucky water is not a good thing.

  3. #3
    I've got two extra switches to the left of the choke. One looks exactly like the choke and brake knob, the other has an obvious different knob on it (I know this one is for some equipment that was hooked up by previous owner). The one that looked exactly like it should actually be there was what interested me. If I am reading this electrical diagram right, it looks like only the far left and far right fuses in the fuse block should do anything (when stock). Sound right? Its a bit difficult to trace the wires...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Tulsa, OK
    Posts
    1,725
    From memory, there's 4 fuse slots and three are used, on a std response. One is fan, another lights, one is to the key I think. One of the two centers is a "spare" holder originally.(w/o any options anyway)

    You can unscrew the fuse box and look at the wiring on the back. Some time, a light and mirror should figure it out.

    Your one factory looking knob might be some option I don't know about.

  5. #5
    1997 model built March 19/97 sold June 15/97

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