2005 Avenger, trouble turning left, gets hot...

[Rusty-Gunn]

So, its like this... the wife and I bought an Avenger 8x8 with 75 hours on it. Its a very nice machine, in very good condition. All for $6000.00.
When we went to give it a ride it always wants to turn left a lot, such that I'd have to give it constant intermittent right adjustments. It also blows hot air from the engine. I heard these things blow cooling air to the disc brakes to cool them. Yet the discs are hot.
After about ten minutes of driving this way the Avenger quit turning left all together. I checked the transmission fluid level. I seen two marks on the trans dipstick, so I added Automatic Transmission fluid for cars, for a lack of knowledge as to what to use. It didn't take much, maybe half a quart.
After the engine cooled down we drove it home before it locked up again.
What trans fluid should I use?
Regarding the two marks on the dipstick, do I fill it between these marks? My Rancher is like this, but I better ask.
Is the heat causing the turning to "lock up"?
How do I solve this issue?
What can I do to correct the steering issue?
Also, the steering "T" handle has a bit of play in it. Is this normal?

Thank you all very much.

[Rusty-Gunn]

With further research of the threads here I did manage to find a service manual, which explains how to adjust the play in the steering. I seems as though the brake plungers are not set correct. I'll adjust them tomorrow and see how it goes.

[Rusty-Gunn]

Upon further review, I did read that the proper trans oil is actually 80w90. I'll drain out the fluid I put in and fill it with the proper gear oil, of which i have a small supply for my Rancher.
I wish I had discovered this manual before I bought the Avenger, it would have saved me a few questions and a lot of frustration.

[JoeMeg]

Measure the circumference of all your tires.They need to be consistent.This is adjusted with the air pressure in them.If there are bigger round tires on one side of the machine,it's going to want to do circles.There is a blower to intake fresh air and duct it onto the brake rotors. Give a look and see that all is well in that system.However,the air is left to find it's own way out once completing the rotor cooling task,so it goes out where ever it can,that's just Argo's.The Argo trans uses gear lube like Hypoy-C,etc,not ATF.Have fun with your machine,your on the rite site to learn amphib's.

Joe.

[Rusty-Gunn]

We'll do what we can to measure all the tires and adjust pressure as necessary.
The blower does work, so I'll check the ducting.

I used a white lithium type spray lube on the chains, coating them well, including the sprockets. Is this good stuff?

Thanks for the help.

[Rusty-Gunn]

Can I assume all nuts/bolts are metric on the Argos? It seems products from another country are almost always metric. How about the engine, which I'm told is a 26 hp Kohler?

[DerekF]

Most of the nuts/bolts are SAE not metric.

You should check the brake fluid levels on the master cylinders for the brakes. They are right in front of the steering column. You could throw new DOT5 fliud in there. That fixed mine as I had a similar problem.

[Rusty-Gunn]

The wife and I did more adjusting on the Avenger today. She's my "panic mechanic", not afraid to get her skirt dirty. We discovered the brake plunger rods were adjusted too deep, thus prematurely causing a brake/turn effect. We got them backed out as recommended via the service manual. It works very well now - no locking.
We will change out the engine oil tomorrow via the shop vacuum method as described in another helpful thread regarding changing engine oil.
We got the transmission oil changed, sprayed more lithium lube on the chains/sprockets, and greased the bearings on the inside of the Argo. We'll grease the outer ones next.
Overall we're very pleased with this Argo. We drove it about an hour this evening, getting used to how it steers. I think we're going to have a wonderful time with it.
Thank you all for the help.

[sparkola]

Use a CHAIN LUBE on the chains like Tri-Flow or the like. Find some that advertises "sticks to chain" This will keep the lube from flying off the chainns onto the brake discs for the front set of chains. Be careful greasing the outer bearings. I have pushed a cork gasket or 2 out due to the grease having nowhere to go. This is best done after a ride or use a heat gun to heat up the bearings before you grease. If you keep it out of water I go 25 hours before a grease. 10 when in the water. Seems to work good for me.

[Rusty-Gunn]

Thank you for the recommendations.

After we got most of the oil out of the engine, we went to grease a few of the bearings we had not gotten and discovered the front right axel would move about a half inch in and out. A local mechanic who has previous experience with Argos said the bearings mostly are ruined and should be replaced.
Were now looking into buying new ones.

[Rusty-Gunn]

Regarding bearings, are these the proper ones for the 2005 Avenger?
Are they considered good quality?
1" Insert Bearings UC205-16
1 1/4" Insert Bearings UC206-20

Thank you.

[thebuggyman1]

Call Adair Argo and upgrade to the bigger/stronger HDI bearings. I just did that on my right front 2 axles (2005 avenger also). My right jackshaft had a bad outer bearing, but as hard as the area is to get to.......I put ALL new bearings in.
The original Argo bearings are a 62mm outer dia. misalignment type similar to what is used on a Max, except the max bearings have a separate locking collar. the Argo bearing is one piece. The HDI bearing is a 72mm outer dia. and does not require the additional axle seal.

Check your jackshaft bearings, and also if the axle is moving in and out, there is a retaining bolt on the inner axle end. Yours may have come loose or fallen off.

[Rusty-Gunn]

Thank you buggyman. I will check into the Adair upgrade.

[Rusty-Gunn]

Is this the upgrade you are referring to? It looks like I would still need the 101-41 bearing.

HD Bearing Adapter Kit

And what about the bearings linked above in my post, are they suitable as "regular" replacements?

[thebuggyman1]

The UC206 bearing looks correct, with a 62mm outside and a 1.25" inside. The UC205 says 52mm outside, this may be a misprint, or just a smaller bearing.
You need a 62mm by 1" for the inner. Personally, I would NOT use them for the front axles,,your choice on the rear 3 axles. That front axle is just plain HARD to reach....and you are doing it with one hand. I would buy the best quality bearings I could find.....and I did, the OEM ones.
The HDI bearing kit HD Bearing Adapter Kit
does not include the inner bearing. The inners will probably outlast 2 outers, but I replaced mine just because I didn't want to take the chance.
Like I said, The rear 3 axles are easy to get to, but the front ones are buggers!
Another consideration for the upgrade is the axle seals wear into the axles. It actually will groove them and then the seal will not seal out the dirt/mud/water/etc. With the HDI bearing the seal is built in.