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This is confusing me
This is my problem, rear axle, left side on the frame.
What broke?
Thanks!
This is my problem, rear axle, left side on the frame.
What broke?
Thanks!
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The bearing.. You will need a new bearing and cork bearing gasket. Simple enough to replace.
PS. RD Made a great video on changing bearings on a conquest.
Last edited by Dan67; 11-05-2012, 06:07 PM. -
5a
Search for "inner bearing". There are cheaper ways to get these than from a dealer.
[Edit #1]
hmm. Or maybe 8 or 10a. Your picture is kinda wonky.
[Edit #2]
10a
Okay, take it apart and lay the parts out.Comment
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Whoops I was thinking it was outer.. but its is an inner.. You need a UCX05-16 bearing.. about $10 at Buffalo Bearing 1-800-669-8019. There is an inner bearing gasket, just clean and reuse. Or you can make a new one from the cardboard box of a 12-pack adult beverage of your choice. Or you can just toss it out altogether.. I made new.. was a good excuse to buy "Argo Parts".Comment
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You guys are awesome.
Don't know if you saw the thread but you were right Dan67, I was running the wrong plugs in the Conquest. I needed BMR4A plugs, the plugs that came in the machine when I bought it were too long. Cleaned a gummy carb and replaced the plugs and I'm ready to show yall what we can do at Busco!
JohnF - the garage I took over (at a friends house, their car garage) is gonna be mad when they come home and see the axle off. lol - I'll keep on until they kick me out :-D
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If you are going to replace the outer - get in touch with Adair Argo and get an HD bearing conversion for that axle.
Oh, and I rebuilt the front of a 5th wheel, rebuilt the roof and a door for a slide-in popup camper, painted the top and hood of my truck, and do various Argo updates/maintenance on my driveway. None of my neighbors or friends would make the mistake of letting me claim their garage.
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what year is your conquest? argo made a change on the bearing extensions. Mine is a 2000 and it has the bearing race built into the bearing extension. If that is the type you have, it will need to be machined out to allow for the newer HD bearing carrier. You will know if it has 2 cork gaskets and a 4bolt flange on the inside of the extension.Comment
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Hey Dan, contact Adair. I think they have a conversion that doesn't need machining - but don't take my word for it.Originally posted by Dan67 View PostComment
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Yes, they do have adapter plates for this. The Adapter plates can be used to convert the front and rear Bearing/Axle Extensions over to the new HDI Assemblies. (Newer Extensions without the built in Bearing Carrier do not need the Adapter Plates). Be aware that this conversion will cost in the neighborhood of $100 per axle (Bearing, Inner and Outer Bearing Carriers, and new Gaskets + The Adapter Kits, if you decide to use them).Originally posted by JohnF View Post
The Adapter Plates can also be used on the mid axles, and act as a "Minny" Bearing/Axle extension. (Not required, but they do make the conversion "easier")
You can do this GG, it's easy. You can check out the vids I made showing my conversion to the HDI Assemblies. I did not have the option of the Adair Adapter plates when I did mine, they were not available yet.
RDComment
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gimmegreens is broke, someone point me in the direction of what I need? Only the necessities please
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Found this on one of RD's threads:
The parts look similar to what I found in the tub. I didn't find any of the balls from inside but I didn't look hard either. Is the bearing all that needs replacement? If so, is that anything a local store will keep in stock? Or an online order only?
Thanks yall
Edit: Actually, I haven't even seen the main piece in the top center of RD's pic. I saw the piece on the top right of RD's pic. I guess I just need to look harder.Last edited by gimmegreens336; 11-08-2012, 03:38 PM.Comment
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GG this is what I found on my argo also , right front. makes easy to get the axle out but check all flanges to make sure the are still in good condition. If you have this type of bearing on one axle check all of them and maybe coonsider a total bearing replacement, I did. I also had an outer bearing on the idler shaft gone, same condition. The tighter the spot to grease then more than likely wasn't greased enough. also start checking your outer flanges for excessive wear due to axle wobble from destroyed inner bearing. While axles are out check for seal wear grooves on the axles, there's a tech tip here how to fix that if not to bad. Check you sprockets for mishapen teeth, I think RD said they can be used on the other side axles to reduce some cost and delay replacing. I think I replaced 4-6 sprockkets due to not getting the set screws out other than cutting them out. check your chain sliders also for wear, I replaced all mine and added two exteas on the frame for the front two drive chains. I got my machine with 160 hrs on it and the previous owner sent it out to be maintained. The good news after going through the drive train is you will be familiar with all the greasing and chain tensioning reqiuirements for the rig. I wouldn't have maintained my machine properly if I hadn't gone through the process and I wouldn't call myself a mechanic. The machine will also be very water tight after it all. Replacing all the drive train stuff is easy once apart and not mysterious like your carb issues. Oh and make sure you never seize everything for the next time your go through it. You won't forgret it when you come across your first fight with rusted set screws or such. It's also very satisfying to now the drive train is 100% kool after it all and that you did it yourself.
TrevorComment
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Thanks for the response trev! I am sitting her scratching my head over the d*mn Argo parts manual related to this stuff. (Page 1 of this thread, first post I believe has the image) There are so many parts in that diagram. I can't decide what actually broke! Can you point me in the right direction?
Thanks!
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GG, sorry to be so long winded, I just went back to look at your pics and clean all the leaf debris in that machine out. It all gets caught up in the chains and grease and causes extra wear and tear over time. You may want to clean it out to find those bearing scraps, tha way these machines bounce around you don't need that stuff getting caught in the chains and causing more damage especially an idler chain out on the trails.
trevorComment
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Search the site for axle bearings. I know there have been many recommendations for sourcing them.Originally posted by gimmegreens336 View Post
I see it. It's still on the end of the axle.Originally posted by gimmegreens336 View Post
I can only go by what I see so I am going to assume the outer bearing is good. You'll have to make the determination.Originally posted by gimmegreens336 View Post
Let's reference the parts diagram that you posted. You can see that it only show two of the axles, an inner and outer.
Follow the line that comes off of the end of the axle and follow as it passes through the parts. You will concentrate on everything past the sprocket (24) to the thrust bolt (29) that threads into the end.
The thrust bolt (I hope that is what it is called, I am not looking this up) and thrust washers (4) look fine in your picture.
Nuts, bolts, washers (3, 7, 6) are probably fine.
The inboard flange (10b) looks toasted. I would get flanges (10a and 10b), gasket (8), and new bearing (5a). 10a might be okay but I erred on replacing in this instance even though I said I would comment on only what I can see.
Gee, you and Trevor had a whole conversation while I typed that up...
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