Need tricks and tips

[Grizzly]

Goodmorning ya'll.

Couple of months ago, I bought a 2001 Bigfoot with Vanguard 18HP
It only had 30 hours total on the machine. Loaded with all the extras, including Supertracks.
Problem was it had sat for many hours and years and everything that touched gas was varnished. We emptied and slushed the tank. Ran carb and injector cleaner in new gas. Changed plugs, oil and filters, etc. It kept running jerky,but had fun for a couple of weeks. After a full tank had gone through, we thought we were homefree, but it got worse. I took it in to a Briggs "expert" to have the carb cleaned and tuned, it was runing too rich.
He cleaned from the top, did not dunk the carb and said that would do. Well, $125 later, it ran a better and we kept adding cleaner to the gas and crap kept gunking up the fuel filter.
Got fed up and pulled the carb myself. This after removing shrouds and accessories and God knows what the heck, including the intake manifold to get to the bolts.
I decided to buy a new carb (since they have no rebuilts) $260 plus taxes...
While I had all the crap out of the machine, I gave it another oil and filter change. Changed the fuel pump since that was in spoiled gas too. I also rotated the hand crank mechanism so it faces top instead of backwards; the rubber/vynil enclosure was all ripped from the previous owner pulling the crank.

Here is where I need help:
How do you change the oil without making a mess or taking 1/2 the top off?
The flywheel has rust where the magneto rides, is that a problem and how do I fix it?

I tried after new carburator and new plugs and oil change, runs much better, but still hesitated a few times. There is a tube (vaccuum?) on top of the carburator that is not hooked up to anything, normal?
I am going to have to finish installing a couple of screws that hold the cank cover/shroud because I just can't see in there and findthe threads. Almost feels like a guy would have to pull the engine to put stuff back... Certainly not made to be handled with big mitts or if you mind getting all scratched up...

Should Ibe running premium gas or regular?

Thanks for any help on tuning and upkeep. I like this machine and want to get the best of it.

JD

[jerrynuss]

Goodmorning ya'll.

Couple of months ago, I bought a 2001 Bigfoot with Vanguard 18HP
It only had 30 hours total on the machine. Loaded with all the extras, including Supertracks.
Problem was it had sat for many hours and years and everything that touched gas was varnished. We emptied and slushed the tank. Ran carb and injector cleaner in new gas. Changed plugs, oil and filters, etc. It kept running jerky,but had fun for a couple of weeks. After a full tank had gone through, we thought we were homefree, but it got worse. I took it in to a Briggs "expert" to have the carb cleaned and tuned, it was runing too rich.
He cleaned from the top, did not dunk the carb and said that would do. Well, $125 later, it ran a better and we kept adding cleaner to the gas and crap kept gunking up the fuel filter.
Got fed up and pulled the carb myself. This after removing shrouds and accessories and God knows what the heck, including the intake manifold to get to the bolts.
I decided to buy a new carb (since they have no rebuilts) $260 plus taxes...
While I had all the crap out of the machine, I gave it another oil and filter change. Changed the fuel pump since that was in spoiled gas too. I also rotated the hand crank mechanism so it faces top instead of backwards; the rubber/vynil enclosure was all ripped from the previous owner pulling the crank.

Here is where I need help:
How do you change the oil without making a mess or taking 1/2 the top off?
The flywheel has rust where the magneto rides, is that a problem and how do I fix it?

I tried after new carburator and new plugs and oil change, runs much better, but still hesitated a few times. There is a tube (vaccuum?) on top of the carburator that is not hooked up to anything, normal?
I am going to have to finish installing a couple of screws that hold the cank cover/shroud because I just can't see in there and findthe threads. Almost feels like a guy would have to pull the engine to put stuff back... Certainly not made to be handled with big mitts or if you mind getting all scratched up...

Should Ibe running premium gas or regular?

Thanks for any help on tuning and upkeep. I like this machine and want to get the best of it.

JD

Here are a couple of suggestions for changing the oil. Put on a valve with a hose attached. Then run the hose into a container. I use a zip lock plastic bag. With the bag it can be fit into a tight space and filled from the removed plug hole or from the valve.

The tube on top of the carburetor is a vent tube leave it unplugged, nothing should be attached to it.

Run regular gas and use a stabilizer such as seafoam.

Off idle hesitation is normal and is more noticeable on some machines than others. There is not an accelerator pump on the machine. Throttle changes should be smooth and not jerky or stabbed.

[lager99]

Use a ziploc bag to catch the oil.

[Rock Doctor]

I have a neat little tool that I use to suck up the oil, as it comes out of the drain hole.
It's a little vaccum that is operated by compressed air (Air compressor). Basically, it uses compressed air to create a vaccum (venturi action). No oil dripping or leaking into the Argo tub, and all used oil is neatly stored in a plastic container. Same principal as a dreadge, or air gun with siphon tube (parts cleaner)

Regular gas is fine, but keep in mind that Argo's don't like "old" fuel. One of the most common problems that I have seen with Argo's happens when people leave their Argo sitting for months, then decide to just jump in and go for a ride (or dump old fuel into the tank). This can and does cause intake valves to stick. This in turn can cause pushrods to jump out from under rocker arms and/or bend pushrods (I have had to straighten a few of them for guys, using an axe and a block of wood). Fuel conditioner will help prevent this, but if you don't have any handy, just dump about a half cup of ATF into your gas tank.

Your old carb is probably fine. It sounds to me like your pilot jet was probably restricted or pluged off. When the engine starts running "jerky" it could be caused by the governor opening the main jet, trying to get more fuel. As soon as you get more fuel from the main jet, the governor will try to close the main jet. This can cause the "jerky" operation. (Does this make sense? Not sure if this is a very clear way to explane it.)

RD

[Robio_8x8]

Vacuum waste oil extractor

What you need is a Vacuum waste oil extractor
They Range from $40 to $4000
I have a good one you can remove the oil and transmission fluid threw the dipstick tube (Still remove the drain plug after extracting fluids in case they are magnetic and need to be cleaned off)

Amazon.com: oil evacuator: Automotive

Check engine for vacuum leeks. You can use smoke type vacuum leek detector. Do not use a cigarette near the gas , I know that sounds like common sense but I have seen some mechanics do that.
The seals between the carb and intake are very sensitive areas. Not sure if this is the problem but assuming that all the other general maintenance is done vacuum leaks are the next thing to check.


Check to see how well the ignition coils are grounded too.
As far as that little tube that goes no were I have that too and not sure what it is for maybe a vacuum choke option not too sure

The fly feel magneto if it charges if so leave it alone .

[Grizzly]

Thanks a bunch guys.
I did use the plastic bag trick this time and last. But I will try and find an oil extractor that works, it would make things easier and less messy.
It runs much better with new carb and fuel pump. There still is a bit of an issue when I've been riding for a while, it hesitates, almost like a temporary fuel starvation problem. If I just stay idle for a minute, it returns to normal. I moved the fuel line a bit higher close to the fuel pump and that seems to fix it (for now).
We have had so much snow here and this weekend, it was particularly sticky because of the temperatures getting a bit warmer and the sun beating down on it all. It feels dicy riding on unbroken snow. The snow is higher than the fence line in the pastures and forest out back. The bottom hull drags between the super tracks, but she keeps on chugging away. Now and then, going uphill, all I accomplished was to dig myself in. Once tracks are made coming back from the top, I can then go up the trail. Crazy stuff when even snowmobiles can't get back there...

Thanks again for the tips,
JD