Looked at an argo, have questions

[Breadstain]

Finally looked at an argo conquest. It's a 2001 with 350 hours on it. It looks great except for a couple of cracks on the outside, one by the headlight the other by the back seats. It looks like it's been stored inside and well maintained. My inexperienced eye couldn't really find much wrong with it.

Except maybe this rattling that came from the engine. Maybe it's natural, maybe it's not. Maybe it's like the Ducati dry clutch. That's why I'm asking. The fellow that's selling it hasn't ridden it in a while, so the gas I'm sure is a couple of months old. That may explain the difficulty starting without gassing it a little? And the fact that if it idles for a couple minutes it stops?

I know these may seem like dumb questions to some, but it's one of the only ways I learn. It comes with a winch, standard plastic tracks, skid plate, and wheel extenders. What would you pay?

Thanks.

[LarryW]

I'm not real familiar with Argos but what engine is in it?

[Breadstain]

20hp kawasaki

[JohnF]

... a couple of cracks on the outside, one by the headlight the other by the back seats.

If the headlight crack goes from the corner of the headlight hole to the corner of the hood opening - through the thin section of HDPE - then I would would say this one is not uncommon. Some argue that it is caused by winching, and this may be the genesis of the problem, but I can watch the crack width change with the temperature during the day and believe stress due differing expansion/contraction rates of the HDPE and steel frame attached underneath to be more likely.

I've never seen a crack at the back seats so that would take investigation.

These can be fixed by the way. Plastic welding isn't really all that hard. I did fix the headlight cracks on mine a couple summers ago only to have them reappear in the winter.

My inexperienced eye couldn't really find much wrong with it.

The site has a guide for buying used that is meant to help out inexperienced eyes. I'll let you search it down.

Except maybe this rattling that came from the engine. Maybe it's natural, maybe it's not. Maybe it's like the Ducati dry clutch. That's why I'm asking.

That's actually a tough one to help diagnose. I have a rattle in mine - it's something with the brake cooling fan. RockDoctor had a rattle in one of his and I think it turned out to be a heat shield. I would try and track it down though. Had a friend that had a truck that turned out to be carrying a ball bearing on top of one of the pistons. That was a mess.

The fellow that's selling it hasn't ridden it in a while, so the gas I'm sure is a couple of months old. That may explain the difficulty starting without gassing it a little? And the fact that if it idles for a couple minutes it stops?

I would guess a carburetor that needs a cleaning.

I know these may seem like dumb questions to some,

Yep, despite there being no such thing...

but it's one of the only ways I learn.

You stand in good company my friend.

It comes with a winch, standard plastic tracks, skid plate, and wheel extenders. What would you pay?

At $2,500 I would jump on it and I don't need another one. At $10,000 I would give the seller a pat on the back and wish him luck. If I were shopping and all things were in good working order and all I had to do was give the carburetor a cleaning then I would feel like I got an awesome deal at $4,500. If I were selling it I would cross my fingers for $7,500 but deep down really hope for $6,000. But that's me in my area.

I'm not real familiar with Argos but what engine is in it?

Kawasaki FD620D if it has not been modified.

[amphibious drew]

The rattling would be my primary concern if I was looking at the machine, which I wouldn't be. I just don't buy Argos. That being said. The tin work could be rattling. It could be something rattling with the transmission. It could be a broken spring in the drive clutch. As long as it's not the anything major with the transmission, it would be a relatively easy fix. You could always buy a new engine if needed. If you got the machine cheap enough it would probably be worth it. The clutch could be rebuilt or replaced as well. Sometimes it can be hard to locate used Argo tranny's though, and I have no idea what a transmission rebuild costs on an Argo. Its going to probably be only one of these items that needs attention. Figure out what your most expensive possibility for fixing the problem is and negotiate that amount off the price of the vehicle, or at least make sure there is enough in the budget to tackle what could need fixed.

[LarryW]

Is that the same motor I was just reading somewhere here that can bend push rods if the gas is bad?

[JohnF]

... and I have no idea what a transmission rebuild costs on an Argo.

Nobody does.

<ba-dum ching>

Is that the same motor I was just reading somewhere here that can bend push rods if the gas is bad?

That's the one.

[Gras]

I took a jump this spring a bought a 1987 argo 8x8 I/C. I know it's old but I got it for $350. It came with the trolling motor mount and 18" super tracks. I'm like you, I like to work on them so I know what I have. I ended up putting all new tires on it and all new chains, a new fuel pump, new air filter, and recovered the seats myself. I have just under $3000 in it but it runs great and is like new to me. I probably wouldn't pay more then $4500 for that one with 350 hours on it unless they can tell you what kind of service it has had. Mine wasn't serviced much but it also had less then 100 hours on it over the last 12-15 years. Good luck.

[msafi65]

If you inspect it again, with the hood open look just above the driven clutch at the belt guard. Number 1 rattle in a conquest is the back corner of the guard to close to the dash brace. If it has been hitting the dash it will show. I wouldn't bend it away from the dash brace until rest of vehicle checks out and price is agreed to. Almost every Argo with the solid backing arround the hood area crack in the cold weather. 90% are broken where I live. I think the other 10% live indoors.

[ARGOJIM]

The heat shields regularly crack as to the belt guards, the front crack is common if the rear crack is up where the backrest bolts that's pretty common also.
Maintenance is the biggest factor on price, Conquests can be bought for 2000.00 to 12000.00 depending on machine and buyer, 12000.00 is next to impossible to get unless someone really wants a Conquest and it's loaded with every option and more and has 20 hours on it.
Clean machines with options, needing no repairs seem to bring between 4500.00 and 9000.00

[Breadstain]

Thanks for all the answers. It's truly helpful. I plan on going back out there for sure to look at it again. I just had to take some mental notes about what is bothering me and decided to ask guys that have owned them for years what they thought.

I did bring the checklist, but my time was limited so I did what I could. That's why I plan to go back to see it.

One last thing: the indicator light for the battery stays on at lower RPM. Bad battery? Or something else?

That rattle I hear is metallic. There isn't a pattern to it. It's kind of like a random metal knocking sound, and it does get a little more noticeable with the more gas you give it. I'll take a look for those things you pointed out.

[Madman]

That was mine with bent push rods they only costed 3 bucks a piece and ten minutes to replace and adjust

[JohnF]

One last thing: the indicator light for the battery stays on at lower RPM. Bad battery? Or something else?

Normal.

[Breadstain]

Normal.

Good. ^^^

6k a good deal? Assuming I find out what is causing that rattling and the only other thing is the carb needs cleaning?

To jack one of these things up, is it ok to lift up just one end at a time? Seem kind of precarious so I didn't do that.

[amphibious drew]

Good. ^^^

6k a good deal? Assuming I find out what is causing that rattling and the only other thing is the carb needs cleaning?

To jack one of these things up, is it ok to lift up just one end at a time? Seem kind of precarious so I didn't do that.

No that's not a good deal in my opinion. I jack one side at a time up all the time. Put a board between the jack and body just to be safe and not accidentally puncture it.