Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Chain tensioner repairs

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    Chain tensioner repairs

    Well after a successful week in the bush we got our moose, and I learned quite a bit about my argo....
    Started out it was making a clicking noise while driving.. While driving I narrowed it down to the front left axle area. The next morning (Monday) in camp upon further investigation I found that the chain adjustment pad was really worn.. Well past the 1/4" recommended. I checked the others and they all were showing signs of wear but not as bad.. After a light week on the machines, since we tagged out Sunday night, on our return Thursday night there was more of a clunk in the front.. Friday morning we dug into it and as I got into it I noticed that one of the welds on the tensioner cam had broke. I removed that chain and took the whole cam assembly out and found the shaft is worn too..

    Questions... Should the top of that chain have that much tension on it? I couldn't move it up and down at all... How tough is replacing the tensioner cam? It looks like it is 2 springs, and one cotter pin... Is there any secret with the chain already out? Anything I should do when I reinstall the chain? Other than clean and relube it... I will be replacing all 8 pads and keeping the best 3 or 4 for spares, just in case one dies in the bush. I will be relubing all the chains at that time as well... Depending on cost and availability, I am also considering a spare cam assmebly as well..

    My machine (2007 Avenger) had 109 hours on it when we started the hunt and is up to 119 now..
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Update... The cams are easy to replace.. Replace as found, and set the spring tension with one revolution. The slider blocks aren't bad to do, but the chains need to come off to do it.. I found out that it would be ALOT easier with the tracks off and the wheels off the ground.. I found I was usually 1/2 a link off from getting them to line up perfectly.. The slider blocks and chains to the front are the least fun out of all of them, unless you have a second joint at your wrist... Also the original master links aren't notched like the new ones to slide over the link pins, so that was a bit of a battle.. Good thing the family was around Thanksgiving Sunday to give me a hand!!!

    Comment

    • #3
      Don't chuck your old tensioner Pads yet.
      They can be turned (Back to front), this will shift the wear pattern to the side a bit, and they will be good to go again untill they wear down again.

      Comment

      • #4
        Originally posted by Rock Doctor View Post
        Don't chuck your old tensioner Pads yet.
        They can be turned (Back to front), this will shift the wear pattern to the side a bit, and they will be good to go again untill they wear down again.
        Thanx for the tip! I was gonna keep the best 2 or 3 just for an emergency repair in the bush.. I found I had two (front left, and second from the front) had worn down to the cam.. Not really lookin forward to the front right one to do yet...

        Comment

        • #5
          Got the last of them done.. The front on the right was way easier with the second chain already left off.. Made the second wrist not necessary.. Chucked the old chain oil I was using and went with the new stuff I got from Argyll.. It is Motul Chain Lube and has a longer straw to get the oil into the hard to reach places.. Also took some time and adjusted the Idler Chains... Backed it in to the garage and now ready for the next time I go out..

          Comment

          Previous template Next
          Working...
          X