Argo conquest

[Atv_freak]

Hi everyone my argo conquest with the Kawasaki engine will run amazing for anywhere from 1 to 10 hours then just like someone flipped a switch it shuts off not like I run out of gas just dies of I choke it it will start and run for maybe 30 seconds ando it again if I let it sit it will run again for 5 hours carbs cleaned new coil fuel pump and still does it any idea?

[ARGOJIM]

Have you changed the fuel filter? Fuel lines? Let us know a little more with your diagnosis.

[thorn]

Check the anti-back fire solenoid where it plugs into the connection on the firewall side of the engine. Mine worked loose a couple of trips ago with I was backing off my trailer and it was the "switch" that made it so it would not run, but mine would not start at all. I would also clean the carb as these engines do not like old gas or debris in the carb and always use marine Sta-bil fuel stabilizer in every tank.

[tbone9]

I just had the same thing with my 27 hp Kawasaki. There was no ryme or reason when it would quit. Turns out the where the wire harness for the fuel pump plugs together was bad. You can check this by turning the key to the on position and listen for the fuel pump to run while wiggling the wires at the connection. I cut out the connector and but spliced the wires together. Hope this helps.

[shot410ga]

Sounds like maybe a short in your fuel pump or something is bouncing around and plugging your fuel supply interminably. I had the same issue with a Ford F350. Turns out to be a short in the ground wire going to the fuel pump. Very intermittent.

[Atv_freak]

I rewired the pump to a switch to make sure it wasn't wiring on the pump and still did it it just seems odd that when I choke it it helps

[Atv_freak]

New fuel filter and suction line

[ARGOJIM]

Was there anything in the carb. when cleaned, like small pieces of rubber?
It is possible that the solenoid is acting up, while it is running try wiggling the wire at connection and especially the solenoid. The wires are very fine small gauge and can fray/break from vibration.
Is the fuel pump running?
Did you check the tank for debris? It almost sounds as if the is a restriction. Could be leaf, bug, stick from fuel can.
Did you try to start it with the fuel cap off when it acted up? If the cap isn't venting you would hear a whoosh of suction.

Next time it acts up remove the fuel line at the carb side of the pump and see if it pumps, that will give you a direction of the blockage.

[Atv_freak]

Carbs were clean as could be not a spec of dirt or anything I will check the wire out I've checked the fuel pump out it's not that there's always fuel the for it pump works fine I've checked gas cap my local argo dealer thinks it's the igniter I don't see how it could be cuz I choke it and it helps it so it can't be that right ? I just don't want to spend $480 and it not be that

[Atv_freak]

When it over heats will the Argo shut it's self off could it be possible my guege isn't accurate and it heats up and shuts its self off? That's why when I let it sit for a bit it works again?

[thorn]

It could be vapor locking if it is getting too hot. If your fuel lines are old and not Ethanol rated, I would replace them. The ethanol can eat gas lines and send debris into the fuel system.

[Buzz]

put a boat primer bulb in your fuel line where you can easily access it while driving. If it does die.... and the bowl in the carb has indeed run out of gas...you can squeeze the ball- gas will move past the inlet needle to fill the bowl, and you'll feel the primer bulb "firm up." Then try to start it. This is just an idea...in the event your fuel pump is acting funny. Sounds like you've checked your fuel pump to make sure its pumping? This is an easy way to know if your carb is actually running out of gas altogether. And, it's a good thing to have anyway, as you can always drive your machine in the event your low-pressure electric pump (or pulse-pump on the valve cover) takes a dump. One huge benefit to a carbureted machine. It's easy, enclosed, and doesn't make a mess. It's an easy way to prime a low-pressure electric pump too if you ever swap one out.

If your carb is in fact clean, the operation of your fuel-shutoff solenoid is highly suspicious...either the wire or reliable movement of the nipple itself.

[ARGOJIM]

The igniter is possible, still leaning towards a fuel delivery problem. If you have the time bring a piece of hose and an empty water bottle with you, when it shuts down 1st check for spark as if you have it that eliminates the igniter then carefully feel the temp at the upper hose , if you have spark remove the feed side of the fuel pump install the hose and see what you have, if there is fuel there reconnect line and remove it from the carb and see what's there if there it's either debris or the solenoid.

Let us know what you find.

[wildbore]

I don't know whether this will apply to an Argo as I know little about them, but if this were a car I would suggest it could be that the tank breather is blocked and so air cannot get into the tank to replace the fuel you have removed by running the engine. The symptoms of this issue are that the engine will run fine until the pump can no longer overcome the increasingly strong vacuum in the tank and the engine will shut off. If the car (Argo) is then left for a while then the vacuum in the tank is relieved (impossible to have a totally airtight tank!) and the engine will run properly and cleanly once again until sufficient vacuum has built up to overcome the fuel pump. A good check for this is to remove the filler cap the moment then engine stalls - you will get a sense that you are relieving a vacuum. Depending on the power of the fuel pump it might not be that strong a vacuum to cause the problems you describe.

[tshea]

Did you ever find a resolution to this problem ?
I am having the exact same issue - it runs great then runs like crap - needs choke to run - then quits completely.
Let it sit for a while and everything is fine.
I am suspecting either a curled up pickup tube in fuel tank or bad fuel pump.

Thanks
Todd.