Drive belt won't stop on idle

[ArgoSteve]

When my Argo idles, it's very erratic, like sometimes it want to stall or rev high. I have to play with the choke to get it half sensible. Plus the drive belt will not stop so when change gears it grinds. I'm sure that's not good on the gears! Any suggestions on what my problem could be or things I can try to eliminate possible issues!
Thanks
Steve
93' vanguard 16 hp b&s

[Rock Doctor]

It's pretty common actually.
If it's running erraticly, you might need to pull the Carb and do a thorough cleaning.
If the Primary Clutch is actually closing up on the belt a bit and causing it to spin, you might try replacing the Primary Spring, or try just shimming it a bit.
You might just have to turn the Idle down a bit.
You could try lubricating the linkages on the Carb, to help everything return to low idle position.

Choking for a moment usually drops the idle down enough to make a Shift.
Shifting into Reverse first, then shifting into Low/High also works
Finally, shifting with athority (Firmly) can also work.

RD

[trevorakm1]

I had the same issue with mine and was told to pull the choke out to slow the motor to shift with out grinding. Clean the carb real good and then set the idle screw where you want it. Locate the mixture screw on the other side of the motor, if briggs, and uncap it or if exposed set the mixture correctly. Turn motor on and turn mixture screw all the way to lean motor will die. Now en-richen by turning the mixture screw a full turn and a 1/4. This will get you in the ball park for mixture and you can fine tune from there. Once mixture set you can fine tune your idle a little. You can fine tune both to get the belt to stop spinning and shift smoothly all the time. I can get mine just right until the motor heats up the compartment and the hot air can cause erratic idling and cause more fine tuning of mixture not idle, should have been set. I assume this is the problem with the new argos operating in warm climates all resulting in air to hot and thin in the carb throwing the mixture off. This is what I am concluding and trying to resolve for smooth consistent operating. I am replacing my 18 hp for a 23 right now and I may have found an easy way to exhaust the hot engine compartment without mucking with the integrity if the original argo. we'll see and I'll tell if it works so I don't hijack this thread. Hey RockDoc

[Insomniac]

I have had the same problem with mine and I did the same as mentioned above. It is a fine tune between the mixture screw and the idle screw, you will turn one and have to go to the other to get it right, mine has been great the last year now, but the odd time in the winter it reved higher and I couldn't shift it so I turned the key off just as I shift and when it goes in gear turn the key back to run and the engine turns back on without the starter engaging. This is how a mercruiser shift works in a boat when you shift from fwd to rev a linkage breaks the power to the ignition to give it a momentary stumble to allow the gears to mesh.
I have been thinking of a way to integrate this into my argo to help the transmissions gear mesh when shifting.

[ArgoSteve]

Ok, which screw is the idle screw? Yellow arrow or red arrow?

And anyone got a pic of the fuel mixture screw location?
Thanks

[Nubs]

Yellow is the idle speed N red is the idle/air mix screw. may need to adjust both to get to where ya want. sometimes theres a governor issue also, if you can get it to idle by pushing the throttle shaft back onto the screw by hand then the governor is outta wack.

[ArgoSteve]

Yellow is the idle speed N red is the idle/air mix screw. may need to adjust both to get to where ya want. sometimes theres a governor issue also, if you can get it to idle by pushing the throttle shaft back onto the screw by hand then the governor is outta wack.

That throttle shaft wont even come handy to that screw. And when I do push it to the screw she stalls. So I'm guessing the governor linkage/springs are fcuked up!

Now I have to figure what's shagged up?? LOL

[Nubs]

Most likely this arm needs to be moved on the shaft coming outta the block, once you can get it to idle then go back and work on the top end RPM'S. sometimes you can unbend er" over bend a bit of the bend in the linkage rod on the right.

[Nubs]

Will the drive clutch disengage when you get the idle down? are we sure there is not a broken spring in the clutch or the wrong length belt

[ArgoSteve]

Will the drive clutch disengage when you get the idle down? are we sure there is not a broken spring in the clutch or the wrong length belt

No, the belt will not stop at any point. it used to stop at one point last year, but hasn't since then. I guess I could take the clutch apart and see if there is a broken spring. How hard is it to take that bugger apart? LOL

[LarryW]

I remember some certain years where you had to idle the motor real low to work but then the briggs engine would not pump enough oil to lubricate. I dont see why argo just didnt have a higher engagement rpm on there clutches.

[ArgoSteve]

I remember some certain years where you had to idle the motor real low to work but then the briggs engine would not pump enough oil to lubricate. I dont see why argo just didnt have a higher engagement rpm on there clutches.

Can't you shim the clutch spring to engage at a higher rpm?

[foxvalley]

I was told on the older clutches,that you can adjust it to engage at higher rpms by repositioning the springs via a different hole in the clutch.Don't quote me,but on one side of the clutch it needs to stay on the #10 position, and on the other side,I believe they came from the factory in the # 2 position,switch to the # 4 position to engage at a higher rpm.

I also just had to clean the top of the carb on my 580,it wouldn't idle at all,so I took the top of the carb off, cleaned, and it ran like new. The gas sucks these days, and my small engine buddy says 90% of his business is carb work..... that says volumes.

[LarryW]

Can't you shim the clutch spring to engage at a higher rpm?

I'm not familiar with the clutch they use. Depending on it you could get different weights or springs. Shimming might be an option to. I shimmer a small comet 40 with a wire r wrapped around the shift one. It was the only thing I could think of that would fit.