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How to wire a winch to a 1980s Argo vanguard 8x8

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  • How to wire a winch to a 1980s Argo vanguard 8x8

    OK, well I have this 2000lb harbor freight winch and want to hook it up to the keyswitch where it will only come on when i turn the key. I've fumbled out there for an hour or so with my multimeter trying to figure it out. I had no luck . Anybody know how to do it? I really don't want to wire a toggle switch straight from the battery if I don't have to...

  • #2
    If you had a contactor relay, it would be easy. BUT, I think the ultra cheap harbor freight (and other brands) winches do the reversing through the switch. You CANNOT put that much power through the key switch. It WILL ruin it.

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    • #3
      Hey leelord337,

      Yep....what Jim said!
      .
      I have three of those winch's and each one works fine, except the remotes.
      Each remote crapped out within a few weeks.
      .
      So we tossed the remote and wired in a toggle switch.
      My 1st thought was to go through the ignition switch also.
      But after hooking the meter up and finding it pulling 51amps when the cable was extended while pulling a 1000# rolling trailer with one wrap of cable on the spool, I decide that the switch wouldn't handle that amount of draw.
      And that I just didn't WANT the switch to handle that amount of current.
      I then wired the winch direct to the battery through a dash switch that I can reach from the side of the Max.
      I installed a 60amp breaker at the battery end of the winch lead to handle the load and protect everything.
      .
      If you want to toss the remote, send me a PM and I will send you a picture of how to rewire the winch's IC board to work without the remote.
      later...ed
      The trouble with retirement is.... I never get a day off !!!!

      sigpic

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      • #4
        thanks for the detailed responses everyone

        Well I got lucky and got the winch without the remote, its hard wired with wired winch controls so nothing to worry about there, thank goodness. but those remotes can be handy if you want to get it out without being in there, or towing someone out. I'm going to go the waterproof toggle switch route straight to the battery like ya said. not a big deal. thanks again

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        • #5
          These contactors are pretty rugged and are designed to operate with a toggle switch. I've not tested one to see how long it'll operate without melting the housing, but it's been put through its paces. I too, find the HF remotes to be garbage. I'm sure you could also split the lead for the toggle switch and put a receptacle in for a remote if you'd like.




          Winch Motor Reversing Solenoid Contactor Relay Switch 60 6000 | eBay
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          • #6
            I would go a bit heavier than 60A for a 51A load. Maybe 100A. If you're seeing a steady draw of 51A, you'll see a surge of 2-3x that amount on startup. The higher rated relay will last much longer.

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            • #7
              Superwinch sells a nice quality contactor also, used them on a couple rigs and happy.

              Just tossing that in there
              ST400R ATTEX(Smiley)
              500 Super Chief


              I love the smell of Blendzall in the morning

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              • #8
                thanks yall, i might look into that superwinch contactor later on. for now I have it hooked up to the battery via an on/off toggle switch. that seems to be fine and will get me out or pull somebody out in a pinch. winch is a must imo on an argo because there's nothing to hook onto on the front of these things and with a winch at least you have a point to hook on to . helps with towing them in the trailer too.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by leelord337 View Post
                  OK, well I have this 2000lb harbor freight winch and want to hook it up to the keyswitch where it will only come on when i turn the key. I've fumbled out there for an hour or so with my multimeter trying to figure it out. I had no luck . Anybody know how to do it? I really don't want to wire a toggle switch straight from the battery if I don't have to...
                  Here is a short description of how to bypass the remote wiring.

                  I removed the whole printed circuit board (PCB) but you could leave the PCB in and wire a switch in parallel if you are lucky enough to still have a remote that works.
                  The remotes do come in handy, it allows you to winch out of issues and NOT have to be in the vehicle.
                  That means less weight and drag for the winch, plus it puts you out of the line of fire in case of a failed winch component.

                  The Install
                  --------------
                  Remove the winch control box from the winch motor.
                  It is easier if you disconnect the two leads from the motor also, that way you have more room to work.

                  Below is a pic of the nice and clean winch control box from the HFT.


                  Below is a pic of the control box wiring changes and some Busco Beach mud and swamp water mixed in.


                  First mount an On-Off-On single pole double throw rocker switch someplace that is accessible from both the outside the vehicle and the drivers seat.

                  Run 3 wires from the switch to the winch control box.
                  I will use white, black and yellow conductors.
                  White wire to the top switch lug, black wire to the center and yellow to the bottom lug.
                  Use a rubber grommet to protect the wiring coming through the tub and secure the wiring up front with spiral wrap and lots of wire ties.
                  Those pesky bushes and trees love to just reach out and snag on that wiring.

                  Disconnect the White lead from the relay that is coming from the PCB, connect your switch white lead to that spade terminal.

                  Disconnect the black lead from the relay that is coming from the PCB, connect your switch black lead to that spade terminal.

                  Disconnect the blue lead from the relay that is coming from the PCB, connect your switch yellow lead to that spade terminal.

                  Disconnect the fushia lead from the PCB, no new wiring will be put on this terminal.

                  Pull the PCB out of the control box and toss it.

                  Put everything back together and give it a try.

                  Hope this helps, Ed.
                  Last edited by PlumCrazy; 05-31-2014, 08:39 AM.
                  The trouble with retirement is.... I never get a day off !!!!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by phabib View Post
                    I would go a bit heavier than 60A for a 51A load. Maybe 100A. If you're seeing a steady draw of 51A, you'll see a surge of 2-3x that amount on startup. The higher rated relay will last much longer.
                    The 51A draw was with a single wrap on the spool at start-up.
                    The draw reduces as more cable wraps on the spool due to diameter increase.
                    With 15ft of cable out (about a half spool) the draw was 27A.
                    But yes, measure what your winch is pulling and adjust accordingly.
                    The trouble with retirement is.... I never get a day off !!!!

                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by PlumCrazy View Post
                      The 51A draw was with a single wrap on the spool at start-up.
                      The draw reduces as more cable wraps on the spool due to diameter increase.
                      With 15ft of cable out (about a half spool) the draw was 27A.
                      But yes, measure what your winch is pulling and adjust accordingly.
                      How are you measuring that Ed?
                      Theoretically: Assume constant motor RPM,
                      one wrap cable = smaller diameter= less cable drawn in per revolution,
                      farther out on the spool= larger diameter= more cable length= more work performed
                      Watts is a measure of work performed. More work=more Watts. Watts= volts times amps. Volts being the constant here, the Amps must go up.
                      FYI, other factors to consider: A electric motor draws 6x full load amps at start up. Volts are not always constant, and can change with motor running and/or battery charge and load.

                      Now that everyone is confused.....load on a winch will be unpredictable as the machine is pulled out of where it is stuck. The 6X FLA (full load amps) only happens for a split second till the motor starts spinning, and I've yet to see a winch rated in FLA like a typical motor is.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by thebuggyman1 View Post
                        How are you measuring that Ed?
                        Theoretically: Assume constant motor RPM,
                        one wrap cable = smaller diameter= less cable drawn in per revolution,
                        farther out on the spool= larger diameter= more cable length= more work performed
                        Watts is a measure of work performed. More work=more Watts. Watts= volts times amps. Volts being the constant here, the Amps must go up.

                        FYI, other factors to consider: A electric motor draws 6x full load amps at start up. Volts are not always constant, and can change with motor running and/or battery charge and load.

                        Now that everyone is confused.....load on a winch will be unpredictable as the machine is pulled out of where it is stuck. The 6X FLA (full load amps) only happens for a split second till the motor starts spinning, and I've yet to see a winch rated in FLA like a typical motor is.
                        Must admit that was always my take on it, but I'm no electrical engineer.

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                        • #13
                          Well I got the winch all wired up via a toggle switch directly to the battery and working perfectly. Thanks everyone for the input.



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