Argo body spacer. Anyone know deets???

[blazin674]

Do you have access to a tig welder? it might be better to use an aluminum frame to save on weight. Steel might be too heavy making the machine sink lower, defeating the purpose of the spacer. Maybe try getting thick polyethylene strips from McMaster-Carr and forming them with a heat gun. the have strips 1"x3" 5 ft long.McMaster-Carr

[rodp]

If you check out the thread I did on a frame to cure tub sag you could do a similar thing but use "C" channel around the outside. I tied front and rear winch mounts into the frame and front and rear seat supports. All the load from winches / seats is then distributed around the whole vehicle. The frame adds very little weight to it, I can lift it easily with one hand.

[blazin674]

Steel C-channel is a good idea. You can make a support that runs to the frame. I told give you the added space you need and eliminates the dreaded, evil, no good, grandma's butt looking tub sag.

[Rudy_Magnum]

Rubber is no longer an option. $50 USD per foot. Plus delivery, plus import charges. Would end up being like $1800 by the time I'm all done. That's more than I have into this rig.

[rodp]

The trouble with wood is ........................ well .............. it just looks like wood if you know what I mean, it's just primitive.

[Rudy_Magnum]

I did let him know that lighter is probably better. Haven't heard anything back yet. I'd imagine wood would also be a good choice. Cheap, easy to get, easy to work, floats. As long as you don't leave it wet forever, would be a good option.

[rodp]

You want to ask the weight per foot as well, rubber ain't light. Pressed steel channel may be the better option long term even if the initial work is more.

[Rudy_Magnum]

I'm getting a quote from a guy in MI. From what I've seen, it may cost a few hundred for a spacer. We shall see what he comes back with.

[wedge]

Check into a Heavy Truck dody bulder or repair shop. Thay use this type of rubber for trailer repair and seals.

[Rushlow]

I am fighting tub sagging and need some extra height under the hood for the engine. I am interested to see how it ties into the frame and if it's cut and bent around the corners or if it was made to fit. Could use conveyor belt or something like that and glue layers together. It doesn't look like that was how it was constructed.

I am still thinking it needs to tie into the frame some how which would mean that you need some way of joining the rubber to steal. Either it has steal in the core and had mounts on the inside.

Lets see the inside you got to snap some pictures for us

[Rudy_Magnum]

We deal with McMaster Carr at work, will have a look. This one is a solid piece though, not stacked at all. If I do it, will be tied into the frame. I plan on building a rack as well, so would be nice to support that too.

[blazin674]

I am working on something just like that but it will be made from c channel. Can you get some pictures from the inside, wonder if it ties into the frame at all?

If you tie it into the frame you can eliminate the lower tub sagging from the extra weight of the spacer.

[Rushlow]

I am working on something just like that but it will be made from c channel. Can you get some pictures from the inside, wonder if it ties into the frame at all?

[blazin674]

McMaster-Carr sells rubber in 1"x 2" sections up to 25 foot long.

[Rudy_Magnum]

Hood clearance as well as more buoyancy. Can ride a little deeper in the water. Primary use of machine will be to go camping, just like in this picture. We cross two lakes. Its nice to have that little bit extra.

For hood clearance, because I'm putting a diesel in mine. Its a thermoking yanmar, so it has an enormous oil pan. I like the oil pan, so don't want to change it for a smaller one, but will need at least two extra inches at the hood.