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First post on here so go easy with me!! I have a 1997 conquest, when driving in high range at speed when I come to make a turn my machine bogs down to almost a stop, when I release the brake lever she's off like a rocket has loads of power in straight and up hills loaded and unloaded, but bogs down really bad when turn after going at speed in high, clutches work as they should at in neutral but very hard to check on your own at speed under load. I spoke to an Argo place here in the uk today and has told me a list of thingd to check. Just wanted to know if anyone had this issue before? It's fine in low and when going slow no tracks fitted recent chains and bearings tyres are 5psi any help would be great
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What was the list given?
It sounds like it could use more backshift so check to see if the driven pulley (secondary clutch) spring is in hole #1. -
video of clutches no load
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Hi yes in hole #1 and spacer in front clutch made no difference at all, under no load engine clutch does not seem to spring back very quickly I've posted a video of it.Originally posted by JohnF View PostComment
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The Ole video link is a No go from here anyways.Comment
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copy the link from facebook the link should http not https. Does it make any noise when turning, if so where does it come from?
Hopefully video has audio while driving and bogging.sigpic
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.Comment
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[QUOTE=ARGOJIM;183364]copy the link from facebook the link should http not https. Does it make any noise when turning, if so where does it come from?
Hopefully video has audio while driving and bogging.[/QUOT
i cant seem to get the link with just http? i keep getting this
or this
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Vid works, looks fine, have someone ride with you taping the driveline with firewall out. Tell them to hold on.sigpic
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.Comment
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My idler chains were quite slack I've adjusted them so they have 1/8 movement I have not tested it yet, this was one of the things the chap I spoke to said to look at going to check brake adjustment today and try and test on Saturday. I will get some one to film the clutch while I drive.Comment
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Watching the video will help. I was thinking about this last night and it occurred to me that you may have made a mistake that I did the first time I went through my secondary. I had the service manual open and was following along except I put the spring in the first hole. When assembling the manual mentions turning the movable sheave 120 degrees and then pressing it all back together. 120 degrees is for when the spring is in hole 3. The holes are 30 degrees apart and for each hole number higher than 3 you subtract 30 degrees and holes lower you add 30 degrees to the 120 degrees of the manual. For hole 1 you need to turn 180 degrees and then press it together.
Hole 1 and hole 5 are 120 degrees apart. If you put the spring in hole 1 but fail to preload to the proper shoe then the clutch will operate with the same preload as if you used hole 5; and it won't backshift well.
Maybe anyway
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Here are the clutch under load engine clutch does not seem to do much? sorry the video is long i was on a track to narrow to turn to start with. let me know if the engine clutch looks normal you can hear engine bogging down. I think after tightening the idler chains it got slightly better but not great.
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First thing seen is the tires have side bite (harder to turn), hear some slapping that is probably normal chain tensioner noise, clutches look to be doing there thing.
Take a pic of the spring side of the driven.
What trans is in it a G or an M?
Is it running on both cylinders?sigpic
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.Comment
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