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  • bigfoot 6x6 brakes

    first post, I've got a 6x6 bigfoot with 150hrs, that when you pull either brake lever it jumps back and forth. I pulled all of the covers off and noticed that the rotor is rusted up. going slow I can feel the rough spots on the rotor as they come in contact with the pads. I've thought of just using scotch bright pads to remove the rust? any thoughts?

  • #2
    Welcome to 6x6world. Yes,cleaning the discs may be all that's necessary to smooth things out a bit. Keep us posted.
    Last edited by JoeMeg; 05-04-2015, 12:18 PM.
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    • #3
      Got home tonight and pulled the caliper off the right side and used a beartex pad to smooth it down. Put it back together and rode around a little. The brake is still kicking back and with it being dark I could see a few sparks coming out! When I had the caliper out looking down into it one side has a plate with a pad attached, the other is just a plate. Are both sides supposed to have the plate and pad?

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      • #4
        Pads. I think your brake pads need replacing.
        Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

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        • #5
          Brake pads are a basicly square metal plate with two holes at corners for cotter pins. The friction material attached is about 5/16" thick when new. Sounds like worn out pads and the rotor may be ruined also. Rotor should be very smooth on both sides.

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          • #6
            [IMG][/IMG]
            Here is a picture of what I am talking about. Am I missing the left brake pad?

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            • #7
              Defiantly need new pads. One is good the other is worn right off. As mentioned your rotor may need turning or replacing too. Is the calliper seized or sticking? Sorry for your luck.
              sigpic
              Camo side up, Rubber side down!!
              2014 Argo 750HDI SE
              2008 Honda Rubicon, Camo
              2008 Jeep Rubicon, Black, 2 door, 6sp, 2 Warn winches.

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              • #8
                Well the other caliper looks the same so I'll change out both sets of pads, might be a good time to do the calipers also. Is the a preferred vender I should look at? Thanks for the help!

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                • #9
                  Don't buy new calipers unless there is a corrosion/breakage problem. Get the rebuild kit. There is really nothing to rebuilding these.

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                  • #10
                    If there is no damage to the calipers then no need to replace them. Change out the pads.
                    Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for the help, all I Ment for the calipers was to just replace the 3 seals in them. I'm going to try to get the parts ordered this week.

                      And thoughts on "Argo adventure" for parts? Is there a better place. The closest dealer is about 1.5 hr from me and would rather just pay to ship them.

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                      • #12
                        Got my parts ordered so they should be here first of next week.

                        I've done several drum brakes before but never disk, after releasing the brake lever what moves the pads back off the rotor to keep them from dragging? Thanks!

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                        • #13
                          I ordered most of my parts from Argo Adventure. Better prices than All Seasons Argo in my state of Alaska. I never had any problems with them.
                          Stand for the Flag. Kneel for the Cross.

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                          • #14
                            Does Argo still recommended to use dot 5 silicone brake fluid?

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                            • #15
                              Disc brakes kinda do drag by design.

                              Since you've never rebuilt a caliper: You can remove the pistons with a shot of compressed air. DO NOT - DO NOT - DO NOT put anything you want to keep between the pistons when you do this - it will remove fingers - the pressure is HUGE. I usually stuff a rag in that space so pistons don't fly away. I use the blower nozzle and you don't have to seal it to the caliper. Just get close and squirt a burst.

                              The bleeder valve uses a steel ball bearing. Take a look to see if it has rusted up and needs replacing. Sucks to find this out when you go to bleed the brakes.

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