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Tearing down my engine for rebuild and not sure how to get the primary clutch off the shift. Have removed center bolt but I don't see anything to put a puller on... Help!
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That clutch is threaded on the shaft, righty tighty, lefty loosey. Lots easier if the engine is out of the machine, put a wrench on it and give it a good wack. // RR -
No this one is keyed. I can see inside the clutch hub so that much I know for sure...Comment
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I believe the clutch parts are keyed but the clutch is threaded on crankshaft. If you don't have heads off yet feed a couple feet of soft rope into spark plug hole to lock up engine and try unscrewing it. I haven't seen a keyed clutch on an Argo with the flat kohler. Could be a first let u know.Comment
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I pulled the heads & cylinders while waiting to figure out how to pull the clutch. I looked at it again & it is keyed. I can look down the center of the clutch & see the crank. There is definitely a key way in the crank & the clutch & a key in the keyway... I have plenty of different type pullers but I don't think I want to pull on the cast fixed side of the clutch... The inside of the clutch hub is not threaded to run a puller into. I'm a little lost.Comment
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Try a little heat, using a pry bar or two behind at the same time. racerone3 also had a thread using wedge shims somewhere.sigpic
My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
Joe Camel never does that.
Advice is free, it's the application that costs.Comment
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New to me but try standing on flywheel end and fill with penetrating oil. I've welded large nuts on things to use a pull bolt but may damage clutch from ever being able to disassemble. It won't hurt anything if you can pry very near the crankshaft. Also try a piece of rod just under the size of the crank. Drop in the clutch and with someone either prying or just holding the weight off it smack with big hammer. Will drive crank out if lucky. Deep sockets work just fine as long as they stay out of the threads. Good luck Vance.Comment
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Texted you pics Mark. Can't post pics from my phone here.Comment
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pb blaster on the shaft then a couple wedges,let nature take its course.Comment
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Bearing separator behind the clutch and then puller on that? My bearing separators are threaded for a bar puller. Make sure you anti-seize it for the next time!
Jason2015 Argo frontier EFI Camo. 4000lb vortex winch with synthetic rope. 3.3 trans.
~1998 Max IV (SN 14428) on 26" TRU Power tires, winch with synthetic rope, rear seat moved back 5 inches, flip top rear seat with storage underneath, 55 lb thrust trolling motor, #24 marine Battery and a bilge pump just in case.-soldComment
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Is it like a snowmobile clutch that can be water popped. I've popped plenty of snowmobile clutches using gear oil, Teflon tape, and a bolt and impactComment
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No internal threads on the hub so no "popping" it.
Wasn't room between the back of the clutch and the side cover on the engine for a bearing knife.
Threaded the clutch retaining bolt back into the crank and turned the engine on it's side as suggested. Filled the bub with PB Blaster & every time I walked by it I whacked the bolt a few times with a heavy hammer. Yesterday after that procedure & stuck a large 2 legged puller on it with the legs behind the outside of the clutch & left LIGHT pressure on it (didn't want to take a chance of cracking or warping it). Yesterday had a friend come by & with light tension on the bearing puller & light pressure on 2 additional opposing pry bars we started whacking the puller shaft & finally we were able to walk it off. It had been put together without anti-seize so it had a nice layer of corrosion holding it all together.
And definitely keyed.
It will definitely get anti-seize going back together!Comment
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