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1997 Conquest Electricl Gremlin

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  • #1

    1997 Conquest Electricl Gremlin

    The ol conquest wouldn't start today. I had started at my project of replacing all the chains, bearings, and sprockets for the upcoming moose season. When I was unable to get a single axle to come out I said NOPE. Not going to even try it.

    So I got the trailer ready to take it to a shop to have it done, but the electrical system is dead. The battery is fully charged. Headlights, bilge pump, and winch work. Turn key on and no voltmeter, fan, or starter. Replaced all the fuses, cleaned the connectors down by the engine. Nothing. This machine has had a weird electrical gremlin where the whole electrical system would sometimes die for a second, then come back on again. It sounds a lot like a lose ground doesn't it? But where are the grounds? There's that one plate right next to the brake reservoirs that has a bunch of grounds but those connections all seem fine. Anywhere else I can look?
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  • #2
    Hi,
    I used to own a 97 conquest and had the same electrical problem. The machine would quit running any place usually in the middle of know where. I would wiggle the wiring and away it would go to make a long story short here is what I found was wrong with mine. I had a bad connection for the 30 amp fuse. That fuse runs the engine. The fuse holder in the fuse block was not making connection some of the time. The 30 amp fuse would sometimes would burn the blades off the fuse. So if I was you check and make sure of the 30 amp connection at the fuse block. Hope this helps. Paul

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    • #3
      Haha . That's funny because my 30 amp fuse was a little melted when I pulled it. I thought better look into that, replaced it with new but it didn't work. Had to go back to work for a week. Will pull that block and check it when I get back.

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      • #4
        Check the block as it is very possible that one connector is burnt.
        sigpic

        My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
        Joe Camel never does that.

        Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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        • #5
          Just to update this I checked my fuse block and it was fine. I tested the ignition itself and it was not getting continuity. So I took it out and disassembled it. The 30 amp power to the ignition from the battery terminal inside the ignition was corroded so bad it wasn't making connection anymore. So I sanded it all down and got it working and then shattered the ignition trying to reassemble it. Went to NAPA and bought a new ignition for $12 that fit in the same spot. Machine running again.

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          • #6
            elc.gremlin

            Originally posted by Coast2Coast View Post
            Just to update this I checked my fuse block and it was fine. I tested the ignition itself and it was not getting continuity. So I took it out and disassembled it. The 30 amp power to the ignition from the battery terminal inside the ignition was corroded so bad it wasn't making connection anymore. So I sanded it all down and got it working and then shattered the ignition trying to reassemble it. Went to NAPA and bought a new ignition for $12 that fit in the same spot. Machine running again.
            Congratulations- Happy to spend that $12

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