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  • engine over heat

    Hey guys had my mid-80'ish argo out for it's 2nd run - I'm in love! But... I have a problem with it overheating. The 18HP V-twin B&S Vangaurd runs great but it just plain ran out of steam and the heat in the engine compartment was UNREAL. The plastic body was hot to touch, and I really didn't run it that hard; we just would got for quick runs then shut it off for a while then give it another test. Wondering if anyone else has had the problem and found some solutions. I was thinking of wrapping the manifold and exhaust through the engine compartment to prevent that heat from radiating into the area. Also I notice that there was an intake on the passenger side but all that remains is a bit of frayed flex line and a old gear clamp. Can you tell me what this intake set up was like and where it tied into? Is there any sense in trying to put a 12v fan on it to try and really get the air really changing in there?
    Last edited by Mike; 08-29-2008, 12:15 PM.

  • #2
    If it is the flex line I think you are talking about it is about 6" diameter and it ran to the fan/cooling blades on the side of the motor with the pull start wheel on it, this would suck cool air from the outside and blow it over the motor you do need this flex hose to route air in and cool the motor. The flex hose should end about an inch away from these blades when mounted properly.

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    • #3
      On my Argo there is a fan that blows air down a flex tube to the dash panel where it blows on the disk brakes to keep them cool.

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      • #4
        I've seen some run with out the engine cover, or they made a simple cover using a 2x4 frame with bug screen over it. What is the ambient temp?

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        • #5
          Might be time for a flush & fill on the radiator?!?

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          • #6
            Air cooled! Route a large(5"-6") diameter flex hose from the right front of your body the slits open to the air right beside and behind the right headlight to the intake fins (looks like a squirrel cage fan)on the right side of your motor use L shaped stand off brackets and a couple of large hose clamps or zap straps to hold the hose in place about an inch away from your motor.

            Originally posted by artist1018 View Post
            Might be time for a flush & fill on the radiator?!?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by artist1018 View Post
              Might be time for a flush & fill on the radiator?!?
              My Bad!! My Conquest has a 20 hp, water cooled power plant, OK!?! LOL

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              • #8
                might be time to rebuild the carb. if a jet is cloged it could be running lean and make a lot of heat. this can kill an engine fast. it will run great for a while, and make a TON of power, but in the long run it's gonna hurt the motor. also check the fuel filter, pump and line. also make sure you have the correct spark plugs. "hot" plugs can cause a lot of cylinder head temprature.
                good luck
                A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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                • #9
                  I bought a set of plugs from TSC that have a lifetime guarantee. Check your local Tractor Supply Co. or, TSC.com for your engine's particular plug.

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                  • #10
                    where are you located? and is the machine from the same area? altitude can have a big effect on carb jetting
                    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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                    • #11
                      thanks for the help

                      It was about 20 degrees C out (70 F) and I was running with the lid off. I just had the engine serviced and they did plugs, fuel filter, oil filter, air filter, etc. I would have thought if the carb needed further work they would have done it but I'll pull it apart and take a look. by the time I got it back to the truck there was virtually no power and she was running UGLY! It happened almost instantly where I went from running great with lots of power to being bagged right out. I'll run the air intake this week and give it another run and see what happens. The Engine isn't that old, the old owner appearantly replaced the old 16HP with this new 18hp in about 03 so it should have lots of life left. Bottom line is she was running EXTREMELY hot, I think more then just not getting enought fresh air. The vavle thing seems intresting. I guess I need to get REAL familiar with this engine!

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                      • #12
                        the carb might have been fine when serviced, but if some trash got knocked loose while changing the fuel filter. carb rebuild should be easy... even if it's not the fix it should be some peace of mind. another thing i've seen on a briggs is shearing the flywheel key. if the flywheel turns on the crank, it will change the ignition timing which can lead to detonation and excessive heat. as it moves further out of time, it will run worse and worse. i've only seen this happen on briggs, but they are all built about the same so i'd think they could all do it.
                        good luck and keep us posted
                        A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

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                        • #13
                          Ill take a few pics when i get to the farm of the ducting,i often remove the hood after a while of running,helps a bit!
                          You never know till you try it

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                          • #14
                            follow up

                            I sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb and major black came out the exhaust so yeah I'd say it's a bit dirty! Ran a whole lot better after but I think a serious carb clean is in order! I also changed the belt while I was at it and (sorry if I sound like a newbie but... I'm a newbie!) they weren' too sure which belt to sell me and the one I got was certainly smaller then the one that came off so I figured the original was stretched out. It was a bitch getting it on, but I think that was more to do with user error then anything else. So after the carb clean and the belt she runs WAY better and WAY faster then before but.... Now my transfer is a WAY harder to put in and out of gear. It used to be effortless to go in any gear and now it takes a pretty good shove and cluck before it drops in, I guessing my belt is too tight and now it putting too much strain on the transfer shaft? I have about 1" of deflection on the top of the belt when I push it down in the middle. I'm liking how it's running and driving but I don't want to f up the tranny. ANy thoughts always appreciated.

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                            • #15
                              Your belt is probably fine the way it is. Is your engine idle set too high? Also when you shift from forward to reverse for example, you should pull the laterals back to stop the rotation and allow the shifter to fall into place. You shouldn't have to use a lot of force. Sometimes it helps to pull the laterals back and forth quickly with one hand while shifting with the others. Once you get the hang of it, it will be second nature.

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