Argo Conquest front right axel removal...wheel fell off

[jjort]

Hello
The front right wheel on my Conquest hub weld let go and is no longer attached to the axel...can anyone tell me the procedure to get this particular axel out? Does the engine have to be removed to get at the inside bolts?... is the battery tray removable?
I cant see how to get this out without having to remove the motor...hopefully thats not the case

[dirtdobber]

Can the hub be welded back on without taking it apart?

[olargo]

Battery tray is removable. Should be able to remove the axle with engine in.

[jjort]

Well....believe it or not I got it out but it was a struggle
I got the battery tray out first but I had a hell of a time removing the axel
I couldnt hit the thrust bolt because no room to swing anything heavy
I couldnt use a slide hammer because there was nothing to attach it to...hub was gone
so I ended up hitting the end of the axel where the weld was on an angle....took quite a while but it eventually came out

I think the hub can be welded back on.....but I think I will replace it depending on availability...probably change the bearings at the same time

cheers

JJ

[olargo]

Great to know that you were successful. Agreed - you may as well replace those bearings if needed - now is the best time.

[Laird]

If anyone has the same situation you can weld a bolt to the end of the axle shaft and attach a slide hammer to pull the axle. You can then zip cut the bolt off.

[trevorakm1]

love hearing owner repair stories. always something to learn.

[Murray40]

Big old HD pipe wrench for leverage (pulling) and tap. Two pipe wrenches opposite ..more power. Now you need a third hand for tapping.

[Noel Woods]

What year was the Conquest? The reason I asked there were many late 1990s thru early 2000s Argos that have this issue.

[Buzz]

the flange weld on old pressed style argo axles (pre HD) break very frequently. They’re actually pretty crappy but okay if you’re a tender driver. If the axle is stubborn and doesnt want to come out (and you made sure the thrust bolt, inner bearing set screws, and outer bearing flange bolts removed) it’s always the inner bearing frozen to the tapered end of the axle. Just sawzall the axle in half (inside near the sprocket) and take it out. You’ll be taking both inner/outer bearing flanges out anyway. Especially if the hub flange is already broken. It is very seldom worth the time/effort trying to get the inner bearing race to let go if it’s stubborn. I’ll usually try heating it up a time or 2, but only if I desperately need to save the axle. Both bearings get replaced.