Replacing idler chain

[Avenger Bob]

I have completely frustrated myself trying to put the connecting link into a new idler chain.
The new chain has no slack and I cannot line the two ends up to insert the pins of the connecting link. Does anyone have any tips?

[North Country Tough]

Not sure why Bob this is with the motor plate adjusted all the way down any idler chain I ever bought out of Argo had plenty of slack with the motor/Trans plate all the way down.

[North Country Tough]

I do use a pair of modified vice grips on nasty chains

[Avenger Bob]

I checked the Argo part number and it?s the correct one. The transmission is as far down as it goes. However the manual does say to remove the power pack adjusting bolt completely to provide better access. I will try this. Maybe that will give me more slack.

[North Country Tough]

Have you a modified vice grip simple build helps tons I guess my sprockets are worn more than yours is the reason I get slack I just installed all new chains.

[Facemelter]

Check the power pack frame for a second lock bolt between the engine and transmission. I have run into this same problem before and that was the culprit.

[Noel Woods]

This is what I use:

I have one for #60 and I ground another one down for #50 chain.

[Avenger Bob]

It looks like I will have to buy a chain tensioner or the Argo vice grips to finish the job. Thank you all for your help.

[Facemelter]

Be careful pulling those chains too tight. I've had the idler shaft bearings go and the teeth on the brake rotor wear off because I adjusted the chain too tight. Check for another big lock bolt that you may have missed. Those chains should be fairly loose if everything is adjusted all the way down.

[ARGOJIM]

If you have both center and rear bolts loose and have pushed down on power pack with leverage and still a no go, first check that the square washers are flat and not standing, if that doesnt work you may want to loosen the front bolt.
This is all assuming you have adjusted down the the 2 height adjustment bolts.

[Avenger Bob]

If you have both center and rear bolts loose and have pushed down on power pack with leverage and still a no go, first check that the square washers are flat and not standing, if that doesnt work you may want to loosen the front bolt.
This is all assuming you have adjusted down the the 2 height adjustment bolts.

The adjustment bolts are down but I will check the square washers. Perhaps that’s why the manual says to remove the whole rear bolt. I have ordered a chain puller from Amazon and will tackle this job again when it comes.

[Bennett20200]

Might be a little bit late to help you now, but I picked up a little chain puller from Princess Auto for ~$20 and it worked a charm. I've never had an issue with the chains that run from the idler to the trans, but I have had an issue with the chains that run from the idler to the front axles.

Also, I wonder if the chain you bought is maybe short a link? If you haven't already, I would count the links on your new chain and old chain just to be sure.

[Avenger Bob]

Might be a little bit late to help you now, but I picked up a little chain puller from Princess Auto for ~$20 and it worked a charm. I've never had an issue with the chains that run from the idler to the trans, but I have had an issue with the chains that run from the idler to the front axles.

Also, I wonder if the chain you bought is maybe short a link? If you haven't already, I would count the links on your new chain and old chain just to be sure.

I have the puller from Princess Auto too and used it on the #50 chain but mine is too small for the #60. I have ordered a larger puller from Amazon.

[Avenger Bob]

If you have both center and rear bolts loose and have pushed down on power pack with leverage and still a no go, first check that the square washers are flat and not standing,

You nailed it. That was exactly the problem. I straightened out the nut so the corner was not hitting the frame and voila!
Thank you ArgoJim!