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  • Back to working on the Argo

    OK, I have been away from the site and my Argo for several months now. My wife and I have been blessed with a healthy baby boy. "My first" And now that everyone has been home for few months and we have a new routine down. It's time to get back to my other baby. I have a few things to deal with.

    Charging system:
    The wiring was very messed up on this unit when I got to it. I basically disconnected everything and hooked it back up very basic with no charging system/lights etc. Just a solenoid/switch/starter. Now it's time to start examining it all and sorting out what needs to go where. Need to sort out the rectifier circuit.

    Leaks:
    I have had the unit in the water one time. And it leaked pretty bad. I plan to pull it out of the garage today and fill the tub with water to give myself a good idea of where it is coming in from. The machine was somewhat neglected in the past so I am guessing it will need new outer bearings/seals.

    Chains:
    I need to find out exactly what size chain I need and what length. The chain on one side was extremely sloppy and I moved one of the adjusters to take some of it up but it's pretty much at the end of it's adjustment. Either the chain is VERY stretched or there are not the right amount of links in it.

    Once this is all taken care of I have found several good pictures/plans for winch mount and snow blade mount. So I'll start the fabricating there.

  • #2
    Seals

    OK so today I drop a garden hose in the tub and lt it rub for 20 minus. This thing poured water like.. well... a gardn hose. Leaking around the axles themselves. not the flanges. So I presume I need new . Outer bearings? Should I just call route 6x6 and price thm? Or is thr a way to crossreference them? Also I see 2 pins on ach axle. One on either side of the sprocket, do you drive those out to remove the axle? I watched one video on here and it must have been a newer model because it looked completely different.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by humanshield View Post
      OK so today I drop a garden hose in the tub and lt it rub for 20 minus. This thing poured water like.. well... a gardn hose. Leaking around the axles themselves. not the flanges. So I presume I need new . Outer bearings? Should I just call route 6x6 and price thm? Or is thr a way to crossreference them? Also I see 2 pins on ach axle. One on either side of the sprocket, do you drive those out to remove the axle? I watched one video on here and it must have been a newer model because it looked completely different.

      I got the new outer bearings from Welcome to SAS Bearings, Inc. and the shaft seals from argo (you can cross reference them to something better I'm sure)

      You can buy outer axel bearings, part #uc206-20 from sas bearings, inc in florida. They are under $6.00 each! phone #1-888-800-6203 Give them a call. Hope this helps.
      2008 MAX-IV 500T 30hp Bandolero

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      • #4
        I got the seals and gaskets from argo an the bearings from thebigbearingstore.com. they were about seven dollars each. the stuff from argo was really cheap too.

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        • #5
          Some progress,

          OK, so today I removed a few of the shear pins, Haven't tried removing any axles yet. I need to swing by Harbor freight and pick-up some proper sized punches. I have a feeling removing the axle from the sprocket tube is going to be quite the chore.... Any advice?
          Last edited by humanshield; 06-18-2009, 01:34 PM.

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          • #6
            Getting sprocket tube off of axle

            Originally posted by humanshield View Post
            OK, so today I removed a few of the shear pins, Haven't tried removing any axles yet. I need to swing by Harbor freight and pick-up some proper sized punches. I have a feeling removing the axle from the sprocket tube is going to be quite the chore.... Any advice?
            Hi H....S.. Both of my machines have splined axles,so I am not speaking from experience but I have read more than once that removing all of the shear pins and driving the machine is the best way to loosen the sprocket tubes from the axle. As each sprocket comes loose from the axle and stops driving that axle it puts even more pressure on any sprockets that are still driving. Sounds logical to me?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by smog View Post
              I got the new outer bearings from Welcome to SAS Bearings, Inc. and the shaft seals from argo (you can cross reference them to something better I'm sure)
              I got my bearings there once. Cheap but real slow. She did appoligize and she used the death in family excuse so....... Other then that, everything else was good.

              And Phillipatmaxour is right on the pin/bolt idea. Works good. But if your machine is not drivable it wont work of course.

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              • #8
                Question, Jacking up all tires off the ground doesn't appear to show any slop in the wheels. In and out or side to side, But when leak testing they leak like crazy. So am I to assume the bearings are in fair shape? Also once removing the shear pins is that all that holds the axles in? I think I may have seen a set screw on the outside of the flanges?

                And yes the machine does run so I could feasibly put the top back on and go for some riding to try and break everything loose. Is this a fairly good method? I hope to get a proper sized punch and remove the rest of the shear pins this weekend.

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                • #9
                  I purchased an attex that has been sitting for 20+ years. I had to remove some balloon tires with a chisel to the nut/stud. I got to the pins and took them out. But the hubs and sprocket tubes where all stuck. So I threw in engine in it and got her going. Drove it around without the pins and slowly replaced the pins untile everything was broke free. It worked great and its fun doing it. lol

                  I know nothin on argos but assuming the bearings are like the attex. There is a seal on outer bearing flange. That may be your culprit. Some aatv use a rubber seal squashed between the bearing flange and the body. With a hole tight fit to axle. Could also be culprit. Maybe you can tell if its coming from the axle/flange or from the flange/body.

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                  • #10
                    Dirty is probably right with the seals. Id check that out.

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                    • #11
                      The water was definitely coming from around the axle itself. Not the flange. Those appeared to be water tight.

                      I guess I'll pull the pins out and just start having fun!! I have been soaking everything in PB blaster of course :-)
                      Last edited by humanshield; 06-19-2009, 09:15 PM.

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                      • #12
                        progress.....

                        OK, so I got the pins removed from 5 of the 6 axles. (Going to have to pull the battery/battery tray to get the last set.) Once that last pins are out I can just start driving and it looks as if the sprocket tubes will (hopefully) spin free of the axle, yes? And if so what is required to then remove the axle? I presume there is more than just the pins that hold it in place? I do have a slide hammer to help persuade the removal of the axles.....

                        Next, I see people have posted various places to get bearings. And most people seem to get all the seals from Argo directly. In order to get bearings from a 3rd party I would need to know the diameter of the axle presumably. Any other dimensions? Thickness or anything?

                        Sorry I have never done this before and it's kind of trial by fire.

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                        • #13
                          your bearings and seals will have numbers and or letters that define what the bearing or seal is. Copy these numbers and use them when ordering new stuff. The cost of the parts will depend on different factors. The quality, where you get them and maybe the quanity. I used cheaper offshore bearings (I know better but....) and CR double lipped seals. I also made new axles out of 1 1/4 ground shafting. The material for the axles was under $60.00. You may find the axle worn where the seal rides. You can get sleeves for your axles but then you have to get the proper seal. You would need your OD and ID seal size instead of numbers on the seal. It's not nearly as hard as all this sounds. Once the drive sprokets are loose, back off your bearing lock collars and HOPEFULLY the axles come out with some gentle persuasion. Best to ya'.Have fun.

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                          • #14
                            OK, so after removing all the axle shear pins I did about 2 laps around the yard and voila one sprocket tube is free. But the chain also came off at the same time. Is this normal/expected? It was the chain on the front axle and does not appear to have any sort of tensioner. Should this be expected for all axles?

                            Also the lock collars you mentioned? Those are the hex bolts I see at each end of the axle around the bearing?

                            After putting the pins back in this axle I decided to take a break, and threw the fishing gear in the back and road down to the pond. Pulled into the edge of the water and caught a few. I can't wait to get this thing sea worthy.

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                            • #15
                              No. the lock collars are up against the bearings, held in with a allen head set screw. Back off the set screws and rotate the collar off. I can't remember which way!!! The collars are on an ecenteric lip on the bearing and as you tighten the collar on the bearing,it tightens on the shaft. If you don't understand what i'm talking about ,you may want to check one out at a bearing distributor.

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