Conquest carb jetting

[thorn]

what brand are your tracks? turning was a major issue when I tried it out at the cabin. I just didn't have any power to turn. Chanel tracks made in Canada. They are an elevated belt design. There is a 46 page thread on them under tracks/tires/wheels.

the other owner claims he kept stabilizer in the gas. but who knows. Is checking the push rods a complete engine tear down? I am really just not an engine person, its all greek to me. There was a brief 60 second period one of the times I started up the machine at 11,000 ft where it ran more similar to my house at 8000ft. It has some power, and climbed right over a drift that I previously could not get over. When I turned the machine off and restarted, it was back to the slow going. I ran it a dozen times over 2 days and all the other time it was slow and underpowered. Thoughts?

Is there somewhere I can take it in for service to get everything looked over to see if its running as it should? I hate to start making modifications if there is just something else going on. Is it possible that any of this could be transmission related? It likes to pop out of reverse, you have to hold the lever manually in place. It popped out of low gear a few times going downhill too.

I have Chanel Tracks hand made by a gent in Canada. There is a 46 page thread on them in track/tires/wheels section.

[bluebruin]

ok thanks for all the suggestions. that's quite a bit to check. I'll start with the things I can figure out and then get back to you all. thanks

[thorn]

Okay, thanks. I am having an issue with mine flooding out idling at high elevation, but I should start another thread.

[PaSean]

I nipped the plunger off of mine when I first got it. Granted, I only put 10 or 12 hours on it but there has been no negative effects so far. I'm pretty sure it just shuts off fuel flow after you turn the key off to prevent a hot soak starting issue or maybe to prevent backfire when shutting down the engine, but I haven't experienced anything abnormal.

[thorn]

Oh that. Stop by Ace on your way home and pick up a M8x1.0 x 12mm bolt. We'll just be removing that thing.

I have thought about just plugging mine too. Any negative side effects to not having the solenoid going?

[ARGOJIM]

Oh that. Stop by Ace on your way home and pick up a M8x1.0 x 12mm bolt. We'll just be removing that thing.

or just "nip the tip".

[JohnF]

... or the fuel solenoid ...

Oh that. Stop by Ace on your way home and pick up a M8x1.0 x 12mm bolt. We'll just be removing that thing.

[ARGOJIM]

Oops your faster than me.

[ARGOJIM]

Blue try to start the engine, let it warm up some. shut it off and unplug front spark plug wire if it starts and runs that cylinder is firing, shut it off and replace wire and remove rear wire see if it starts and runs.
Or you could remove the valve covers and visually look at the push rods/rocker arms and see if one is off.

The Kaw's don't run that noticeably bad when running on one cylinder except under load
.
It sounds as if it either has thrown a push rod or the fuel solenoid is sticking partially closed ( which would make the jet intake smaller than it is) as Thorn wrote.

[JohnF]

... Is checking the push rods a complete engine tear down? I am really just not an engine person, its all greek to me.

Nope. A few minutes. Take the valve covers off and take a peek. You can get the service manual HERE to help decipher the greek.

There was a brief 60 second period one of the times I started up the machine at 11,000 ft where it ran more similar to my house at 8000ft. It has some power, and climbed right over a drift that I previously could not get over. When I turned the machine off and restarted, it was back to the slow going. I ran it a dozen times over 2 days and all the other time it was slow and underpowered. Thoughts?

Check to see if it is running on both cylinders. We can troubleshoot from there. This is the pushrod/ignition sort of thing.

Is there somewhere I can take it in for service to get everything looked over to see if its running as it should?

These engines are commonly used on commercial lawnmowers. Might find shop for one that will give it the once over.

I hate to start making modifications if there is just something else going on.

Fair. And smart.

Is it possible that any of this could be transmission related? It likes to pop out of reverse, you have to hold the lever manually in place. It popped out of low gear a few times going downhill too.

Search for popping out of reverse in the transmission forum. This is a not uncommon problem and may require a fix.

To answer the question though, I doubt it.

It's more than just carb jetting.

True. Usually it is carb jetting and clutch tuning.

Your engine should have plenty of power in stock form.

LOL - That's what we all say as we struggle to motivate around at 10k+. 14HP (at best) big tracks big snow = big struggle.

if your stock Kawasaki is running right and your clutches are functioning properly.

There we go...

... there is not an unseen drag somewhere in the drivetrain.

OHH, that one! If the tire diameters inside the track are pretty different you could be losing a great deal of power just scrubbing the inside of the tracks. Tire pressure changes due to temperature changes can have an effect. Put the machine on blocks in neutral (engine off) and see if you can pull the tracks around by hand.

[Buzz]

Something is not right. Yes I think your tracks are very heavy, but you do have a GU tranny if I read it correctly.
It's more than just carb jetting. Your engine should have plenty of power in stock form. In regards to tracks, it would have no problem turning an elevated belt track in any condition if your stock Kawasaki is running right and your clutches are functioning properly. Even older or low HP machines do not feel underpowered when driving an elevated-belt track. Something to consider down the road.
I would start with a few basics in regards to the engine. Confirm you have adequate output from your fuel pump. Make sure you are having reliable spark at all times from both cylinders. Check for spark but also remove one plug wire at a time and attempt to drive it around. If it doesn't feel hugely different, that's a big deal. Do a compression test. Clean the carb. Again verify that clutches are working and there is not an unseen drag somewhere in the drivetrain. You'll figure it out, and you do have an excellent machine so hang in there.

[bluebruin]

My Chanel tracks do help with the gear reduction, but I was able to go a lot same places with my Supertracks with the angle iron cleats (no belt extension). They were just slower getting there and did not have the climbing ability. One of the biggest pluses to the Chanels is you do not bog/loose power nearly as much when making turns climbing or in deep snow.

I don't know what kind of load Blue had or the snow conditions, but 1-2 mph in low seems to tell me that something is not right. Without knowing how old the gas was in it, treated/untreated, etc. It could be all the problems I mentioned as well as a thrown/bent push rod which is also common for these engines if the gas got gummy. I know these are under powered at altitude, but the previous owner could have been having problems with it and did not address them.

what brand are your tracks? turning was a major issue when I tried it out at the cabin. I just didn't have any power to turn.

the other owner claims he kept stabilizer in the gas. but who knows. Is checking the push rods a complete engine tear down? I am really just not an engine person, its all greek to me. There was a brief 60 second period one of the times I started up the machine at 11,000 ft where it ran more similar to my house at 8000ft. It has some power, and climbed right over a drift that I previously could not get over. When I turned the machine off and restarted, it was back to the slow going. I ran it a dozen times over 2 days and all the other time it was slow and underpowered. Thoughts?

Is there somewhere I can take it in for service to get everything looked over to see if its running as it should? I hate to start making modifications if there is just something else going on. Is it possible that any of this could be transmission related? It likes to pop out of reverse, you have to hold the lever manually in place. It popped out of low gear a few times going downhill too.

[thorn]

My Chanel tracks do help with the gear reduction, but I was able to go a lot same places with my Supertracks with the angle iron cleats (no belt extension). They were just slower getting there and did not have the climbing ability. One of the biggest pluses to the Chanels is you do not bog/loose power nearly as much when making turns climbing or in deep snow.

I don't know what kind of load Blue had or the snow conditions, but 1-2 mph in low seems to tell me that something is not right. Without knowing how old the gas was in it, treated/untreated, etc. It could be all the problems I mentioned as well as a thrown/bent push rod which is also common for these engines if the gas got gummy. I know these are under powered at altitude, but the previous owner could have been having problems with it and did not address them.

[Nubs]

Small v twins will not push enough air/exhaust volume to run a Turbo, its been tried over and over. they may look cool and guys will say bla bla but its all smoke N mirrors

Utube is full of guys puttin' em on push mowers etc

[JohnF]

1. Is it possible to convert my FD620D to a FD661D as you mentioned? What is involved in a nut shell and what kind of cost? Are parts off the shelf?

I think so: <CLICK RIGHT HERE>

2. running on one cylinder. snow on the exhaust? meaning it didn't melt and therefore was not hot so that identified the issue?

Right.

3. do you think seafoam is worth running through once to clean things up in case there was bad gas or old gas at some point?

I'm a seafoam fan. Sort of a tuneup in a can for many situations.

4. i will PM you about the clutch weights. you are in thorton, I actually work in Broomfield so should be easy to come pickup. Very appreciated. would love to see your machine and your engine swap.

My office is behind the Walgreens. I could walk over to KT's for lunch one day...

5. turbos. does anybody make a bolt on kit for the FD620D?

Not that I know of.

6. what about opening up the top of the air cleaner to let more air flow? make a custom cover...

Oh yeah, I've taken the filter off before and it may help a little.

7. how about removing the muffler/exhuast and fabricating ...

That probably won't make a difference unless there is an issue in the pipes that are on there.

8. tracks.

Oh yeah again. Mine had the shorter angle iron modification on it when I got them. I took them off due the weight. I "think" it helped but have no science to back that up. But the channel tracks like thorn's lowers your gear ratio to the ground and can have a dramatic effect.