Argo axle removal 70's model

[sieg]

Hey everyone, i'm looking for some advice on how to remove the front axles from a 70's model argo. I've removed the set screws and i can't get it to budge, is there more than the set screws holding it in that i'm not seeing or is it just frozen up in the bearings?

[sieg]

A little help please, I'm afraid to keep pounding on it trying to get it to move. help me out before i break something. i need to get this axle out and time is a factor

[3006]

I'am looking at the parts manual for 1977 and up argo and i don't see anything other than the locking collar.I'am rebuilding my 1984 tecum and i just pulled the power pack frame out.Next comes the axels,i may have the same problem.

[PowerFistArgo]

I had the same problem taking the axles out of my 1973 argo. I ended up taking the berrings out on the axle and putting it in a press to get the axle out of the berrings. Also im sure you did allready but you need to take the roll pins out of the sprocket tube.
Hope this helps

[nody]

Hey guys did you put a punch into the hole in the collar and drive it loose? Not the set screw hole but the other one.

[ve1sar]

Why are you removing the axels ??? If you are replacing with new ones cut the old ones off between the frame rails on the inside. Use a grinder with a zip blade. Be sure you cover the inside with wet rags so you will not melt the body. If you want to remove the axels and reuse here is an idea for a puller or in this case a pusher. I imagine you have removed all the bolts that hold the bearings and the seals as well as the roll pins and set screws and other fasteners that hold the axel in place in this model argo. Make a template of the bolt pattern of the inside bearing housing and take a piece 3/8 or 1/2 in plate to make a puller. Transfer the pattern to the plate. Make sure the plate will fit up against the end of the shaft where the inside bearing is located. Also drill a centre hole in the plate so the bolt can pass through or can be threaded through or weld a nut on. Bolt the plate to the frame where the bearing is now tighten the center bolt . Cover the end of the shaft with a washer so the bolt will not damage the end of the shaft. Continue to tighten the centre bolt. This may help in forcing the shaft out. Good Luck.

[racerone3]

Hey guys did you put a punch into the hole in the collar and drive it loose? Not the set screw hole but the other one.

yes. use a punch in the "other" hole to spin the collar loose. you will have to hit it hard, and more than once. by looking at the hole in the collar you might be able to tell which direction it was hit in the first place. if so, try to spin it the opposite way. if you can't tell, try counterclockwise and if that doesn't work after a few tries reposition and try hitting clockwise. i always try to tighten them clockwise just like a standard bolt but i've noticed on all my machines that a lot of previous owners didn't think that way

[greggv2007]

[QUOTE=racerone3;56971]yes. use a punch in the "other" hole to spin the collar loose. you will have to hit it hard, and more than once. by looking at the hole in the collar you might be able to tell which direction it was hit in the first place. if so, try to spin it the opposite way. if you can't tell, try counterclockwise and if that doesn't work after a few tries reposition and try hitting clockwise. [ i always try to tighten them clockwise just like a standard bolt but i've noticed on all my machines that a lot of previous owners didn't think that way]

I turn all of mine to the rear of the machine. Since most of your travel is in forward, if a setscrew does come loose it should still have a tendency to help keep the locks tight. But I guess to each his own.

[Robinhood02]

it seems that there are some questions about which way a taper lock collar is to be put on , the modern heavy farm equipment of today is the equipment what i operate and repair on a regular daily basis , the shafts on farm equipment almost always turns the same way at all times ,but correct installation is imperitive because improperly installed brg collars can cost you thousands from a brg comming loose not just 50 on a new axle , the correct instalation is as follows, which-ever way the shaft turns MOST of the time is also the direction that the collars are to be peened into place ,it seems counter intuitive but it is true , in an argo or Max or otherwise all the shafts turn forward most of the time so all collars in turn are peened forward .
and yes those darn shafts can be VERY hard to remove , especially the front ones in an Argo

[sieg]

hey everyone, just wanted to take a second and say thanks for all the advice. I ended up having to cut the old bent axles in half to get them out. getting those lock collars off was a nightmare. i had to make a sleeve that clamped over them so i could actually hit it and make it turn.
Anyways thanks to everyones advice i am now 100% up and running and blasting through the snow! This forum has been a great deal of help and i'll always turn to it when i need advice and maybe someday give some advice to someone whos having the same problems i've had.