Conquest primary clutch removal(kawasaki FD620)

[tizbass]

I’ve noticed that my belt is “ridding high” on my primary clutch at high rpm. I can see half the thickness of the belt outside the diameter of the clutch. I don’t think this is normal???? So I’ve started on removing the clutch but the farther I get into this the more I think the engine has to come out to get it off. Someone should have some input on this?? It also looks like the crank seal needs replacing so maybe I should just yank the motor anyways? Thanks for any help with this…..Randy

[Roger S]

The clutch will come off in car with the hex bolt loosened, the bolt won't come all the way out. It may be stuck on the shaft, it's supposed to be a slip fit. When you disassemble it, the pieces the weights sit in are different on the ends, don't flip them end to end. The excessive travel you have may be a broken snap ring inside the spring chamber, under the three bolt cover.

The crank seal shold be easy to change in vehicle.

[tizbass]

Thanks Roger, The clutch slides freely with the hex bolt out but the clutch hits the support brace before it can clear the end of the shaft. I even took off the bearing nut, cover and weights but it still wont clear. The outer shive is very loose but it won't come all the way off either. I'm a little stumped!

[Roger S]

I said it would come off, but that's repeating what others have said. I'm not aware of the support brace. Can you wedge the body out with lumber?

[Rock Doctor]

I know exactly what you mean. It will come off, but it's a bit of a PITA. I just pulled a friends off, but had to remove the boltes in the brace, down at the frame. Buddy had to push on the brace with a 2x4 from the firewall side, to get me enough room to slide the clutch off. And, even then it was a close thing.
On my Conquest it's a non issue, everything clears. I never looked close enough to see what was different on some of the others.