Ignition Problem

[ArgoSteve]

Went for a little run today. We stopped for a minute for a rest. Got back in the argo and turned the key and nothing, all I got was a click from the ignition. Tried it a couple more times and nothing. I also noticed when I turned the key, the whole cylinder turned with the key, like something was broke or loose. I then lifted the hood and gave the ignition a little turn and bam!, half of it came out in my hand, I was like WTF.

Anyway, I managed to half get it back together, then turned the key to on, then pull started her and headed for home.

What has happend here, has the ignition died on me? Do I have to replace the ignition with an Argo ignition or can I use a generic/auto ignition? Could it be my Starter?? Not sure how to troubleshoot this.

Thanks,
Steve Cornick

[AussieMax]

You should be able to fit an ignition from a garden tractor or any small engine powered machine. These ignition switches earth the coils to cut the spark when you turn them off. If you fit an auto ignition switch it wont turn off.

[racerone3]

not sure what vintage of argo your working on. it may have a standard lawn and garden switch like you can pick up at lowes or a mower shop. if the 5 wires on the back of the switch are in a black plastic molded plug then it's probaby a lawn and garden switch. if the wires screw onto the back of the switch, look closely at the back of the switch. there will be a letter next to each post. mark each wire with the letter that it goes to, then pull your switch out. take it to NAPA or most any auto parts store and have them match it up. my local napa had the switch i needed on the rack, to replace the bad one in my argo.

[ArgoSteve]

not sure what vintage of argo your working on. it may have a standard lawn and garden switch like you can pick up at lowes. if the 5 wires on the back of the switch are in a black plastic molded plug then it's probaby a lawn and garden switch. if the wires screw onto the back of the switch, look closely at the back of the switch. there will be a letter next to each post. mark each wire with the letter that it goes to, then pull your switch out. take it to NAPA and have them match it up. my local napa had the switch i needed on the rack, to replace the bad one in my argo.

thinking it might be the starter. how can I test the ignition to make sure it's not the starter. I picked up a generic starter, I guess I should just install that anyway.

Steve

[racerone3]

use a length of wire to run a jumper from battery + to the small post on the solenoid. if it just clicks then your solenoid or starter is bad. you can then use a jumper cable to go from battery + directly to the starter. if it spins over then your starter is good. solenoids and switches usually crap out before starters do, especially on machines that use the cheap lawn and garden stuff. plus you can replace the solenoid and switch for ~$25. starter is typically much more than that. if your ignition switch fell apart in your hand, that would be the first place i'd be looking for a problem

[ve1sar]

Hi,
I have a 97 argo conquest and I experienced power failure with mine. I thought my problem was the ignition switch at first. This happened when moving on rough ground. Had to have my argo towed back to the cottage by a 4 wheeler atv a little embarrassing. I checked the battery first to see if it was still connected and there was still power in the battery. Everything was ok there. Next a prossess of elimination. I switched on the igintion switch and started checking all wiring connections to see if I could get a power reaction. Finally I weagled the main 30 amp main power fuse, in the fuse pannel and power came back on. I removed the fuse and found one of the fuse blades partially burned off due to a bad connection. The fuse block in my argo is up under the dash and not easy to get at becauce I have a built in heater and a metal defuser and hose for the windshield and this is installed infront of the fuse block. This power failure has occured more than once over the years because of the bad connectiion in the fuse block. If you buy a fuse block from argo in comes in pieces for all the wiring connections and all have to be installed. I chose to live with the problem and just change fuses when necessary. I also moved the fuse block to a better location. Hope this helps a little. Paul

[ArgoSteve]

use a length of wire to run a jumper from battery + to the small post on the solenoid. if it just clicks then your solenoid or starter is bad. you can then use a jumper cable to go from battery + directly to the starter. if it spins over then your starter is good. solenoids and switches usually crap out before starters do, especially on machines that use the cheap lawn and garden stuff. plus you can replace the solenoid and switch for ~$25. starter is typically much more than that. if your ignition switch fell apart in your hand, that would be the first place i'd be looking for a problem

Ok, couple of newbie questions, bare with me. Where is the solenoid? Where is the starter on my B&S 16hp V-Twin? I also bought a new universal ignition switch but it has 4 connections, Battery, ACC, Ignition and Starter and on my original ignition there are 5 wires, Red, Black, Brown, Green and White. Now I need to know what wire goes to which connection on the new ignition.

Thanks,
Steve

[racerone3]

your starter will be mounted to the engine block, down low, on the front side of the engine. once you find the starter, follow the big wire on it to the solenoid. (i've seen solenoids on briggs mounted to the engine block or right on the body of the starter) solenoid will have 2 big wires and 1 small. you have a big wire from the battery to the solenoid, and a big one from the solenoid to the starter. the small wire (called the "exciter wire") is what turns the solenoid on. when you turn the key to the start position, it sends 12V to the exciter. for your switch, your universal won't work. see my first post above for what you need to do to get a new one. the 5 poles on your switch will be marked "B" (battery +), "S" (start), "L" or "A" (lights or accesories) "G" (ground) and "M" (magneto)

[ArgoSteve]

your starter will be mounted to the engine block, down low, on the front side of the engine. once you find the starter, follow the big wire on it to the solenoid. (i've seen solenoids on briggs mounted to the engine block or right on the body of the starter) solenoid will have 2 big wires and 1 small. you have a big wire from the battery to the solenoid, and a big one from the solenoid to the starter. the small wire (called the "exciter wire") is what turns the solenoid on. when you turn the key to the start position, it sends 12V to the exciter. for your switch, your universal won't work. see my first post above for what you need to do to get a new one. the 5 poles on your switch will be marked "B" (battery +), "S" (start), "L" or "A" (lights or accesories) "G" (ground) and "M" (magneto)

Awesome, thanks for all the info. I might wait till tomorrow and get an oem ignition from my dealer here, easier.
Now, another question, I was trying take off the old ignition, having trouble with the part that goes though the dash, I can't get that part off, I've hauled it, turned it, can't figure out how to get it out, thanks,
Steve

[racerone3]

there is a nut on the side of the dash where you put the key in. might be covered with a rubber boot. tear that boot off with pliers, remove the nut and the switch should fall out. if the nut was really tight it may have squished the plastic of the dash around the threaded body of the switch in which case you will just need to thread it out

[ArgoSteve]

your starter will be mounted to the engine block, down low, on the front side of the engine. once you find the starter, follow the big wire on it to the solenoid. (i've seen solenoids on briggs mounted to the engine block or right on the body of the starter) solenoid will have 2 big wires and 1 small. you have a big wire from the battery to the solenoid, and a big one from the solenoid to the starter. the small wire (called the "exciter wire") is what turns the solenoid on. when you turn the key to the start position, it sends 12V to the exciter. for your switch, your universal won't work. see my first post above for what you need to do to get a new one. the 5 poles on your switch will be marked "B" (battery +), "S" (start), "L" or "A" (lights or accesories) "G" (ground) and "M" (magneto)

ok, changed the ignition and still doesn't work. So I took a wire from the + batt to the + on the starter and she started. Obviously it's the solenoid, back to my dealer again, another $20 bux! That's the 5th Trip in a week, I'm sick of going there!! LOL

[racerone3]

befoe you head off to the dealer, try jumping 12v from battery + to the little terminal on the solenoid. just to be sure nothing is fried in your ignition wiring

[ArgoSteve]

befoe you head off to the dealer, try jumping 12v from battery + to the little terminal on the solenoid. just to be sure nothing is fried in your ignition wiring

Fixed it, it was the Solenoid all along, she's good to go now, till something else breaks!! LOL
Thanks for everyones input, I appreciate it.