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  • #16
    spent a couple more hours pulling the gas tank and was going to replace the fuel lines but just drained the tank and scraped it. there was no residue or dirt in the tank so all is good. my machine must have just needed a good cleaning of the carb. the jet looked like maybe a peice hair may have fit through before cleaning. runs like a champ, thanks for all the help here guys! cleaning out the carb is simple and easy for a guy who has never done anything like that before. do you guys run stabil in the fuel even though still using the machine frequently? i keep getting different opinions on the topic.

    trevor

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    • #17
      Hi Trevor, Not a bad idea using stabil. Gas goes bad real fast these days. Charrette, where are you in Me. I ride the Sanford/Wells area with The Junkman. Good luck with your rides Mike D

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      • #18
        Mike d, I live in sanford! you my neighbor? haha where do you live?

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        • #19
          Pulled Idle mixture screw out and cleaned out with carb clean, re-installed and machine runs alot better but not mint. drained the gas and added new gas, changed the spark plugs. Going to check valve lash tomorrow when I get home from work (thats where my feeler guages are). Still need to fine tune that mixture screw. But machine is down until I replace the chains.

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          • #20
            man lots of good info around here for a newbie. i think i hace my carb issues resolved but still want to get at that mixture screw. the cap just doesn't seem to want to come of and i'm nervous to break something. the only issue i have at the moment carb wise is a backfire when i shut down, mixture too rich possibly, anyone? also acharrette i want to replace all the chains on my bigfoot so keep posting with your search results. i think i'm going to do the bearings at the same time. my argo takes on water thru the rear left axle. i have't jacked it up to check for wiggle on wheels yet so i may just need grease. what do you guys use for grease and where to get it? i see homedepot has several kinds any advice? not knowing the machine from brand new i figure i want the moter sound and then the drive and bearings and i should be somewhat bullet proof, then the goodies. not being the mechanic type, i think i can conquer this one especially after fixing my idle problem, thanks for everyone's input.
            trevor
            hopefully riding up in freedom maine soon!

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            • #21
              A backfire when shutting down is actually normal. Search the engine forum for more info, but you can usually eliminate the backfire by idling for a few seconds, shutting the ignition off, and then hold the throttle half way to wide open right after you cut the ignition off until the motor has stopped turning. For grease, that is really up to you. I have been using the Lucas "Red N Tacky" grease for the past year or so and have had good luck with it. You can pick it up at your local auto parts store.

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              • #22
                So got an update on the driveability... Only one concern, when I crack the throttle fast, it hesitates and I have to let off and crack the throttle half way or so to get the rpms up then I can hold it open more. Doesnt seem to matter off idle or while driving. when I open the throttle fast, it will stall if I hold it. Any suggestions? Carb rebuild/clean? I checked the valve clearance .005 intake and .010exhaust. Otherwise, Runs great and has good power when engine is reving but had to cross the road and went to go and almost stalled... not cool. Please help with suggestions on this issue. thanks.

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                • #23
                  Can try to richen the air mixture screw.. otherwise prolly carb main circuit cleaning..

                  Valves are all .005, loose exhaust can inhibit compression release and cause hard cranking.
                  To Invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. (Thomas Edison)

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                  • #24
                    From all the work you are describing (acharrette) it realy does sound like you need to rebuild and clean your carb as the members posted. Get yourself a kit and break it down. Clean it real good and be done with it. Should take care of all those little quirks you are trying to tackle.
                    It's all just nuts and bolts.

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                    • #25
                      So I cleaned out the carb tonight. Did find some gunk/crap/debis that shouldnt be there. Cleaned the crap out of it, and seemed to make a significant differance but where is the idle air screw supposed to be? All the way in and 1 turn out or something? Whats a good starting point? and the screw next to the idle screw that goes to the rod that crosses over to the other side of the engine. throttle screw? (sorry dont know what its called) Engine seems to idle too high

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                      • #26
                        Probably 1 to 1.5 turns out. Set it at the fastest idle, then turn it out a 1/4 or more. I turn it out 'till it takes the hesitation out of the off idle acceleration stumble. You may have to get the idle speed down first, the other screw/rod you're talking about. The governor may be setting the idle speed and not the screw. There's a thread around here about bending the governor tang to set idle, maybe someone can point it out, or you can search for "tang".
                        To Invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk. (Thomas Edison)

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                        • #27
                          b4 you get to far in there ,
                          iam wondering about this metal tube , to me it sounds like the heat riser on an older model dodge,<76-87>
                          its job was to take warm air off the exuast manifold and add it to the air intake so the carb wouldnt bog when cold .
                          it made a dramatic effect on how the car ran when it didnt work ,
                          iam thinking your tube is the same < from the symptoms > ??

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