My spin on a bilge pump

[Dan67]

I am adding a bilge pump this afternoon to my conquest 8x8. I have the factory kit. It includes the pump and all the hardware and instructions to put it in. It is kinda pricy, but I wont have to make any "L" mounting bracket. Just bolt it right in.

[Hulk]

Are you saying to screw it down to the metal skid plate? if you are what size screw do you use I don't want to go through the hull.I was just wondering if I could glue a big enough magnet to the bottom of the bilge to secure it in place.

[Hulk]

?

[Hulk]

You guys just answered my question thanks a million

[lunnex]

As for a switch I found one a canadian tire for 19.00. It is a marine bilge switch with a toggle for manual or auto and has seperate led's to show if either is on . I hooked mine up to run off the key so no dead batteries. the manual side is for my bilge and the auto side I ran to my fog lights , so no need for extra clutter on the dash. Plus the switch looks pretty nice. Here is a pic

[North Country Tough]

Don't quote me on this, but I think it was an "Attwood" that arced on me. I use Rule Pumps now, although I don't have any pumps with Float Switches anymore (Either in my boats or Argo's).

Yep had my best luck with Ruhle or Rule,its tuff to keep them clean enough to work like Doc said but still got one,as far as my boat I got a pair of them one on float switch one manual,damn near replace the float switch every year but the boat is docked at a marina all summer and we dont get down for a few days and want the safety of a float switch, irregardless what you use maintenance is key so check it on a regular basis.N.C.T

[azz7772]

Couple things:
How do you guys keep the pump suction from plugging up with trash? Jamming up the impellor, ect?
Usually by the time I get to where I'm going, there is so much crap in the bottom of my Argo that A pump would never work. Pinecones, leaves, sticks, muskeg, spiders/caterpillars, sand, dog hair,ect.
Also, I've had the "Float Switches" stick in the on position when traveling down rough roads. If they continually tap on and off, they can ARC and actually weld themselves in the on position. Ariving at your destination with a dead battery really sucks. Of course, if you have them turned OFF it will not happen, but you have to remember to turn them off. Having them hooked to the key is a good idea, but then if you are riding down a rough trail, you can
have the same thing happen. Just something to keep in mind

I plan to build a small cube around my pump and cover it with screen to strain the water.

[m350]

I see you(waylonh) mentioned " I screwd it into the floorpan",,,,Hope that does'nt become a leaks source in the future !!,,I used Roger's (maybe others too) idea of using bigger hose clamps,,,one around the bilge pump,,,and one around a crossmemer,,,,holds the pump securly,,with No screw holes in the floor !

[Slimpickin]

I installed a 1000gph pump in mine. I still had trouble with the chains throwing water up on the belt. I bought a small pump from Princess Auto, that fit right up in the top left cornor in by the chain. It sucks the water out so now it doesn't affect the belt. I left the the big pump in in case I get a large amount of water for some unknown reason(lol). Most times I just flick on the little pump till till it runs dry.
Slim

[6X6]

I do want to clarify, I only use the covered switches, or in the 6x6 an in-1 so the float cannot move too far up. I do know some separate and external switches, can travel far enough up that the float actually tries to come down the other way, and will stay on, and can also get debris under them and stay on.
Also a switch not rated for GPH of the pump it's used on CAN weld on/fail. Would be like using a headlight relay as your starter solenoid.
I use auto in the 6x6 cause by the time I see water I've taken on quite a bit more than a few inches. Yes, I use a marine swith (scavenged from old boat) and as I had said, I do only put it in auto when swimming.
I have a pump indicator light on the boat that says when the switch is on, auto or manually. And I guess it's not a bad idea for an anphib either, dead battery OR pump isn't a good thing

EDIT: Beeman- Rule makes floatless water sensing pumps. They also shut off before any oil on the surface is sucked in, even if you filled it up with oil it would not switch on. I have never used those pumps, but I do use Rule pumps. If I kill the Attwood I have now in the Wolf, it would be replaced with a Rule.

[racerone3]

Hi:
I have put an auto in my Attex. I disagree on not using one.

Race, if it pops on for a second when I hit a hard bump, honestly, I don't think it matters. It will only be on for that split second when the floats flung up, and only when the switch in in auto, which I only do while swimming anyways.

I haven't checked this thread in a while, but I see Rock Doctor made my argument for me. my former boss had one in his brand new criss craft and the contacts welded/ stuck shut... ran dry for who knows how long (boat was hooked to a battery tender at the dock)... eventually the pump burned up from running non stop for who knows how long. he didn't find out that the pump was bad till he needed it.

I also throw out the cheap lighted switch that comes with bilge pumps and fog light kits. replace them with a high quality SEALED toggle switch (I like cuttler hammer brand). for things that i like to have a indicator light, i will mount an idiot light from jegs Painless Performance Products 80209 Painless Indicator Lamps or a LED from radio shack and wire it to come on with the switch.... I'm kind of anal about electrical things

[Roger S]

I guess a float switch is needed if your aatv sits in water long term unattended, or if you sleep in it like I've done in my boat.. looks like that alternative switch could be a better choice.

My pump put up with a lot of trash.. the bottom cap's slots limit how big of stuff can pass through. Mine recently failed, the top cracked off where I had hose clamped it.. along with 5 years of bouncing around.. letting water into the motor. The impeller area was intact, but sure was greasy/filthy.. dunno how that could have happened

You can get one in the chain well if it's the right dimensions.. don't ask me which one it is, it's 8 years old, an 1100 rule.

[Rock Doctor]

I wonder if it's an issue with switch quality? Just curious, but what brand of pump? Reason I ask is I've been out is all sorts of rough stuff (in a boat, not AATV) for many years, (14 years and counting), and boats have no suspension either. I can guarantee that my pump was tapping on, sometimes for many hours at a clip. I never had one weld on, or fail. On the boat my pump is HARDWIRED in auto. I can still use manual on, but even with the battery switch off, the one thing that's still on is the pump. Just kinda curious.

Don't quote me on this, but I think it was an "Attwood" that arced on me. I use Rule Pumps now, although I don't have any pumps with Float Switches anymore (Either in my boats or Argo's).

[Beeman]

I found this through a quick search - GRI2600 - GRI 12VDC Water Sensor NC Relay Alarm Contact

It needs a constant 12v to monitor the sensor and power the relay (sensoring water), and then triggers the relay when water is sensed.

There are only two ways you can stop the continuing arcing of the switches - install another "lower" sensor for low water shut off or install a timer circuit/relay that is set to a fixed time of "on" when the trigger is set.

-Beeman

[6X6]

I wonder if it's an issue with switch quality? Just curious, but what brand of pump? Reason I ask is I've been out is all sorts of rough stuff (in a boat, not AATV) for many years, (14 years and counting), and boats have no suspension either. I can guarantee that my pump was tapping on, sometimes for many hours at a clip. I never had one weld on, or fail. On the boat my pump is HARDWIRED in auto. I can still use manual on, but even with the battery switch off, the one thing that's still on is the pump. Just kinda curious.