My spin on a bilge pump

[waylonh]

I made the mistake of taking my first Bigfoot into an extended deep water trip without a bilge. Didn't sink her, but had a wild time getting back, since the belt got wet. After that day I installed a bilge and vowed I'd never leave land without one. I just finished Argo 2's bilge install. This is my spin, and it was very simple. The bilge is screwed into the floorpan in the front right of the machine. Works great since the engine weight + driver makes the argo lean front and right in the water. The bilge sucks 99 percent of water out, should you need to use it. Don't forget to install a lighted switch, you'll forget and run the battery down since the bilge is so quiet.


600 GPH bilge at wal-mart = 16.99
bilge hose routing kit at walmart = 9.99

[trevorakm1]

are you saying you got the complete blige and wiring and lighted switch all at wallyworld that cheap? details please as that to quick and cheap not to do right away. through argo they seem to be running anywhere from $90.00 to 110.00 plus shipping.
thanks
trevor

[jwiereng]

Bilge pumps are availible at many places less than those prices you stated from Argo.

I have seen bilge pumps that have a float switch to auto stop and start depending on water level. I wonder if that would work in an AATV. Would it suck it right dry, or is the sensor not sensitive enough to do that?

[racerone3]

Bilge pumps are availible at many places less than those prices you stated from Argo.

I have seen bilge pumps that have a float switch to auto stop and start depending on water level. I wonder if that would work in an AATV. Would it suck it right dry, or is the sensor not sensitive enough to do that?

I wouldn't go with one with a float switch. every time you hit a bump it's gonna cycle the switch on and off.

[LarryW]

Wahlonh, great advise and thanks for the tip! Very cheap insurance against a bad situation for sure. One of these days Im going to need to get one. I was also thinking if you tapped the power from your key switch you wouldnt need to worry about forgetting to shut if off. Not sure if you switch has it or not but most have an accessory terminal. I always run my lights from there also. So you can run stuff with the switch on but when you turn it off, lights go out. If you are running something with a heavy load you can run a relay in there so low current from the switch will switch a higher current circuit on.

Thanks for sharing your cheap improvement/modification!

Racerone3, Good point on the float switch.

[waylonh]

Here's a total install kit for 41 bucks. Trust me, you don't want the float switch, the water will need to be 3 or 4 inches deep in your argo before it will float. By then, your close to chains slinging water on your belt. (ask me how i know this)


Walmart.com: Tsunami 500 Bilge Pump Installation Kit: Fishing & Marine

[6X6]

Hi:
I have put an auto in my Attex. I disagree on not using one.

Race, if it pops on for a second when I hit a hard bump, honestly, I don't think it matters. It will only be on for that split second when the floats flung up, and only when the switch in in auto, which I only do while swimming anyways.

waylonh: The auto pumps have an ON setting as well as auto. IF I see water coming in then I can switch it on before it's deep enough to trigger the switch, and if I don't (Most likely since I won't see it until there's FAR more than needed to trigger switch in my machine) The outlet is on the Driver's side front, so I'll see the discharge and know there's an issue. (You can also get the switch with warning light, I just scavenged the pump and switch from my old boat)
Rule and Atwood both make excellent pumps. As a boater I NEVER bargain hunt on a pump, but then again these can swim to and drive ONTO shore, so it's less critical. But it you cross any sizable body of water, take the boater motto of a GOOD pump, even if it's a good bit more.

: OH. DON'T use the corrugated hose sometimes billed as "Bilge Pump Hose" It DRASTICALLY cuts down on the flow. Short and straight is best, but at all cost use a smooth interior hose ONLY!

[Rock Doctor]

Couple things:

How do you guys keep the pump suction from plugging up with trash? Jamming up the impellor, ect?
Usually by the time I get to where I'm going, there is so much crap in the bottom of my Argo that A pump would never work. Pinecones, leaves, sticks, muskeg, spiders/caterpillars, sand, dog hair, ect

Also, I've had the "Float Switches" stick in the on position when traveling down rough roads. If they continually tap on and off, they can ARC and actually weld themselves in the on position. Ariving at your destination with a dead battery really sucks. Of course, if you have them turned OFF it will not happen, but you have to remember to turn them off. Having them hooked to the key is a good idea, but then if you are riding down a rough trail, you can have the same thing happen. Just something to keep in mind

RD

[Beeman]

I think you can get water/moisture sensor relays that'd do the same think as a float switch without the vibration cycling problem. And of course, always install a master on/off/(auto) switch.

[LarryW]

.......... if you have them turned OFF it will not happen, but you have to remember to turn them off. Having them hooked to the key is a good idea, but then if you are riding down a rough trail, you can have the same thing happen.........

Interesting stuff with the float switch arcing. Make sence. I was thinking with the wiring. You could run it through the key and through a normal switch. Then you will never forget to turn it off and you will have the option to turn it off when key is on. Which is how I run my lights.

[6X6]

I wonder if it's an issue with switch quality? Just curious, but what brand of pump? Reason I ask is I've been out is all sorts of rough stuff (in a boat, not AATV) for many years, (14 years and counting), and boats have no suspension either. I can guarantee that my pump was tapping on, sometimes for many hours at a clip. I never had one weld on, or fail. On the boat my pump is HARDWIRED in auto. I can still use manual on, but even with the battery switch off, the one thing that's still on is the pump. Just kinda curious.

[Beeman]

I found this through a quick search - GRI2600 - GRI 12VDC Water Sensor NC Relay Alarm Contact

It needs a constant 12v to monitor the sensor and power the relay (sensoring water), and then triggers the relay when water is sensed.

There are only two ways you can stop the continuing arcing of the switches - install another "lower" sensor for low water shut off or install a timer circuit/relay that is set to a fixed time of "on" when the trigger is set.

-Beeman

[Rock Doctor]

I wonder if it's an issue with switch quality? Just curious, but what brand of pump? Reason I ask is I've been out is all sorts of rough stuff (in a boat, not AATV) for many years, (14 years and counting), and boats have no suspension either. I can guarantee that my pump was tapping on, sometimes for many hours at a clip. I never had one weld on, or fail. On the boat my pump is HARDWIRED in auto. I can still use manual on, but even with the battery switch off, the one thing that's still on is the pump. Just kinda curious.

Don't quote me on this, but I think it was an "Attwood" that arced on me. I use Rule Pumps now, although I don't have any pumps with Float Switches anymore (Either in my boats or Argo's).

[Roger S]

I guess a float switch is needed if your aatv sits in water long term unattended, or if you sleep in it like I've done in my boat.. looks like that alternative switch could be a better choice.

My pump put up with a lot of trash.. the bottom cap's slots limit how big of stuff can pass through. Mine recently failed, the top cracked off where I had hose clamped it.. along with 5 years of bouncing around.. letting water into the motor. The impeller area was intact, but sure was greasy/filthy.. dunno how that could have happened

You can get one in the chain well if it's the right dimensions.. don't ask me which one it is, it's 8 years old, an 1100 rule.

[racerone3]

Hi:
I have put an auto in my Attex. I disagree on not using one.

Race, if it pops on for a second when I hit a hard bump, honestly, I don't think it matters. It will only be on for that split second when the floats flung up, and only when the switch in in auto, which I only do while swimming anyways.

I haven't checked this thread in a while, but I see Rock Doctor made my argument for me. my former boss had one in his brand new criss craft and the contacts welded/ stuck shut... ran dry for who knows how long (boat was hooked to a battery tender at the dock)... eventually the pump burned up from running non stop for who knows how long. he didn't find out that the pump was bad till he needed it.

I also throw out the cheap lighted switch that comes with bilge pumps and fog light kits. replace them with a high quality SEALED toggle switch (I like cuttler hammer brand). for things that i like to have a indicator light, i will mount an idiot light from jegs Painless Performance Products 80209 Painless Indicator Lamps or a LED from radio shack and wire it to come on with the switch.... I'm kind of anal about electrical things