86 argo 8x8 turn key and nothing?

[rimini]

went out to start it up, havnt owned it a month yet and no turn over? liights andbilge com on but no starter it seems. also seems to run hot and doesnt have good throttle response 18 hrs kolher mag anyone with knoledge on this engine and machine please fill my ear loved it for the week I drove it Im in a little ghost town of rimini in montana around 7000 ft and love the supertracks couldnt get around without them

[glenhinnisdal]

Best start at the battery, has the glass fuse blown (35amp), these Kohler 18 Magnums need a battery on top form to fire them, the lights and electric fan might well be working but not enough power to turn the engine.

[6X6]

Hi:
OK, this should be a straightforward troubleshoot. Right off the bat, make sure each connection battery - to ground and battery + to solenoid and Solenoid to starter + is GOOD , Tight (don't crank on solenoid or you'll break the copper posts! Firm, NOT torqued!!) and CLEAN (clean up corrosion, just remove battery ground FIRST so a stray + cable doesn't make extra sparks!)
OK, NOW if it doesn't start:
1)Does the motor TRY to go? If so, put a booster or jump the battery. This will say either weak battery or not.
2)If the motor doesn't try, or a jump on the battery doesn't help, take a jumper cable and go from the battery + and touch it to the + on the starter motor (you'll get a SPARK, it's ok, just don't hit ground, or you'll get a SPARK) (I'm not trying to be a butt, I just don't know how much or little you know about these types of things in general) IF jumping to the starter with a good battery (booster/charger on it or jumped to a car battery) and you still get nothing or almost no cranking, it's the starter motor or ground.
4) Jump battery - to the housing of the starter or engine (away from the + terminals) and touch the + batt to + starter again. You'll now know if your starter motor is good or not.
5)If the motor cranks with just a jumper from battery + to starter motor + you know it's either a cable, connection or solenoid. With all jumpers removed a large open end wrench can jump the two large posts on the solenoid (SPARK again) Do I need to mention this isn't done with gas leaks or open fuel containers near by? If that is all the jump needed to get it to crank, change solenoid. If not, jump the cable on each side of solenoid , one side then the other. Replace the bad one.

[Jeff t-boss]

Adding to what glen posted, if this sat and the battery went dead, you might want to also check your charging circuit AND your ignition switch. If the rectifier/regulator goes, then battery voltage can "drain". The unit will charge, but battery will drain when unit is not being used. Same applies for the ignition switch (Or any other accessory switches you have). If the contacts are stuck closed for any circuit, it will drain the battery. If the battery is easy enough to get at, charge it and then HAVE IT LOADTESTED at a local garage. Being that this problem showed up 1 month after you got it, I'm inclined to think that it is just the battery. But to be safe, also check the charging system. And check for "Parasitic Draw". That's where voltage is still being drawn from the battery after everything is turned off. Being that these things don't have too much of any kind of computer controlls, the max draw should be less than .01-.02 an AMP. If you need to, you can google/bing "electrical parasitic draw" for more detailed info and proceedures. It's a pretty simple test and really helps reduce t/s time. Here is a link: Battery Drain Parasitic Draw Testing

[waylonh]

Jumper the starter solonoid. I'd use pliers with rubber grips. It'll scare the crap out of ya, but id bet this is your issue.