Conquest not charging

[tizbass]

Hi guys, I'm looking for some help with an electrical issue!!! About a month ago my conquest stopped charging. This morning I broke out my electrical diagram and check a couple thing. My electrical knowledge is not great.....I'm a toolmaker!!! Any way the diagram shows 2 stator leads coming from the engine so i checked both for voltage with the engine running and got nothing. My question.......is it safe to say the problem is inside the engine and it needs to come out? Just looking for some reasurance befor I go ripping the engine out for nothing.

Thanks, Randy

[G__]

Ok,if I see it right,than you got an 5 amp charging system (your wiring diagram picture is a little small).
If that is the case,than you won´t find an rectifier (it sits on Kohler engines on top of the cooling shroud).All you have is a diode in one of the wires.The stator coil generates AC,while your Argo runs on DC.According to the Kohler repair manual that I have,you need to have an output of greater than 28 Volts AC at 3000 rpm (disconnect both leads and measure in line....I know,voltage isn´t suppose to be measured in line,but Kohler says so and it does work).
If it doesn´t,it´s most likely your stator coil that needs to be replaced.If it´s OK,it could be your diode-measure the resistance in the lead,it should have open loop in one direction and closed in the opposite.
Rarely (really,really rarely)it happens,that your permanent magnets de-magnetize.In that case,the stator coil stops putting out enough as well....but again,very unlikely.
If you have a rectifier (the two leads go into it,but "just" one lead comes out),than you have a higher amp charging system (15 amp-again Kohler).The rectifier can´t be measured (it´s electronic) but it needs input (a good voltage from your stator coil) and a good connection to the battery.
The ignition switch is vital as well:resistance in it has a negative effect on the rectifier (even though,problems with that aren´t likely to occur with vehicles that are worked regularly,but occur on vehicles that are standing idle for longer periods of time..like mine was)
Chers,Gernod

[G__]

Sorry,I think I just saw the voltage regulator (pretty much the same as the rectifier,except the voltage regulator doesn´t allow "over voltage" and is more sophisticated),so there are a few more things to check than just the stator.
And don´t forget:the stator produces AC,measuring DC on it gets you no where

[ve1sar]

Hi,
I may be able to help you with your no charging problem. First does your Argo Conquest have an Kawasaki engine or a kohler. Let me know. I have had some experence with a kaw engine not charging.
Paul

[tizbass]

Thanks for the replies. I'm glad I posted here first because I was checking the stator leads inline but......on DC. So I'll check it again. The engine is a Kawi...FD620.
Thanks, Randy

[ve1sar]

Hi,
Does your Argo have an alternator? Is the belt still hooked up or loose or broke? If it has an alternator the only way to remove it for testing is to take out the engine or remove the radiator to get at it. The alternator is under the engine and is very hard to get at. The Argo I mentioned in the above log is a 2004 year conquest. The argo stopped charging it was taken to the dealer for repairs. He could not find the problem so he removed radiator to access the alternator. Not an easy job. The alternator was found to be ok. So the dealer checked all the wiring and found a wire connector behind the dash had come apart. A simple fix in the end. I would check all the wiring connections be for removing the alternator. The bolt size's for the alternator are metric 16mm & 17mm. Hope this helps.
Paul

[Slimpickin]

You can take the alternator off by removing the battery and box. Then reach down under the front of the engine. There is a nut to loosen, then loosen the tightening screw with a philips screw driver. You can then take out the top bolt. Then you can reach the bottom bolt from the inside through where the battery box sits.
I had a shop check and there was nothing wrong with the alternator. It turned out to be a very bad ground where the negative cable from the battery attaches to the engine.

Slim

[tizbass]

Thanks for alternator tips but I'm pretty sure mine doesn't have one. Maybe because its an older model or maybe an option? Not sure.....Randy

[G__]

Did you check for voltage/resistance?
Besides:the tip regarding the bad ground connection to the engine is a very good one,I would definitely check that out as well.Regarding alternators vs internal charging systems:alternators are one more step up in out put.While a internal charging system my 15-20 amps produces (250-300 watts),will an alternator produce 40 or more amps.
And yes,it looks more that you have an internal charging system (according to your diagram)

[tizbass]

So I checked it again...this time using AC. Good news ...I have voltage. So I'll check the ground and what ever else I can see. Thanks for the help guys.

[tizbass]

I' pretty sure i found the problem. Thanks everyone for your help

[G__]

Yep,that looks like a nice case of corrosion and resistance causing heat build up...it really pays to put some dielectric grease on connections!
I am glad for you,that it is such a simple fix!

[Gary F]

All of the answers sound correct but one thing not mentioned is the part where you need 12 volts , if you have AC comeing out the stator is working , the only thing I did not see anyone mention is checking the fuse , yes it has a fuse or circuit breaker supplying the 12volt going to the stator , follow the wire back from your amp meter to the fuse strip and check that the fuse or breaker is working.