drive chain refurbish.... help!

[trevorakm1]

hi guys, need some help. i have an 01' bigfoot and started replacing inner and outer bearings and all the chains from idle shaft back. i've watched the video by rock doctor and even the one mike did for the max. looks very simple but..... i started with the right rear axle and got it all disassembled except for the chain sprocket set screw. this is the first and worst problem. while trying to remove the set screw i snapped the allen wrench in the set screw. i can't get the remaining bit out and can only insert the wrench in maybe a 1/16th. i have been spraying jb blaster and no good. i can't grab the set screw because it's flush with the sprocket surface. anybody???? i couldn't believe i actually broke the wrench. the second problem is i have tried to tap the axle out of the inner bearing and it won't budge. in fact the screw i bought to thread into the axle is starting to bend. anyone with some thoughts to loosen the axle/ bearing dilemma. i have the set screws out of the bearings, they were easy, could i be missing something? i have looked at the parts manual but i could have missed something tough to see in those exploded diagrams. i have read the service manuals so i think i got everything? man, rock doctor makes it look soooooo easy. i was telling my brother in law, takes 10 minutes per axle............when it's all prepped right i guess. looking at the condition of things i figure i'm the first to change all these bearings. i'ld appreciate any thoughts or advice thanks

trevor

[Cyclone67]

Hi Trevor
I've just finished playing the same sort of games in my 85 argo. It is quite frustrating. The previous owner had welded every sprocket on to the axle shafts (must have got sick of replacing roll pins.) Anyway I had to grind off every sprocket with an angle grinder and then drive out the axles using an old spark plug socket as a drift and a large hammer.

You may have to drill the set screw out. Alternatively sometimes a small pin punch hammered hard onto the set screw may loosen it. Put a big pipe wrench on the sprocket sleeve and a crowbar through the axle studs (with the wheel nuts partially on to protect the threads) and give it a turn and see if that loosens it (once you remove the set screw.)

Also turn the bearing retainer rings on the axle as they are eccentric and lock onto the axle holding the bearing on.

Good luck and hope this has been some help.
Cyclone

[flippy]

I have a large 2 x4 inch magnet that I use many times to pull out broken allen wrench ball heads or screwdriver tips etc.Very strong magnet comes in handy at times.

[Rock Doctor]

Don't give up hope

Couple things to try:
Turn the axle so it's "setscrew" side down. Smack the top side with a hammer/Punch, and maybe the bit will drop out.
Might try it again with heat if it doesn't work.

For the axle stuck in the bearing, you probably got a Grade 3 Bolt, try to get a grade 8. Actually get a few, of varying lengths, that way you start with a short one, and have less chance of bending it.
It was probably assembled without Anti-sieze, it might be tough, but hit it harder.

You have a '01, so you don't have Roll Pins, or Concentric Lock Bearings, your axles are probably Splined, so don't try to spin the axles in them.
What cyclone said would work on older machines, but yours is different.

RD

[shane]

I also find an air chisel works well for removing stubborn inner bearings and sprockets, just got through scrapping a 85 8x8 for parts. Had to bust up one inner bearing and cut through race with mini grinder on 1 axle, was quite interesting.

[trevorakm1]

an update to my refurb and a question. i have all 3 axles out on the right side and just finished filling some small grooves on the axles from wear and painting the outer exposed part of axle. i have all the parts to reassemble this side but....i can't get the idler shaft out. the outer bearing was gone except for the inner race? i think you call it. the shaft slides left and right and i can move the retaining clip but i can't get the sprocket to go past the brake disk. i need maybe another 1/4 to 1/2 inch of movement to raise and slide the idler shaft out and reassemble. i also can't get one of the allen wrench screws out that hold the brake caliper, so i can't get the disc off. in the service manual it says that you can take the brake disc off if necessary so can this come out without removing the brake disc? i have also removed the four nut that hold the flanges that sandwich the inner bearing. i thought that this would give me the slop i need to remove the idler over and up and out with the disc in place but not enough. any thought anyone? i think if i can get the disc in between the double sprocket i should be able to get it out but i can't get it there. i hope this makes sense as it's hard to explain. HELP!

thanks
trevor

[Rock Doctor]

You've got the idler chains off right? Loosen the bolts that hold the trans/engine mounting plate (15/16ths). The ones you loosen to tighten the idler chains. Stick a hammer handle under the trans and lift the trans. This will give you enough room to slide the sprocket under the brake disk.

Why can't you get the Allen Head bolt out for the Brake? Stripped or just too tight?
RD

[trevorakm1]

the allen is too tight and after breaking a wrench off in the set screww on the rear sprocket, i guess i'm afraid it might happen again. first it's the lower screw so i can't see it and second if the wrench breaks i'm screwed as a do it myself project as i'll be at a loss of what to do and limited tools. i'm a mechanic in training with this machine. i like working on this thing but i like riding better and i don't work on my own cars. i have a 1981 toyota fj 40 landcruiser i'ld like to restore and this machine is giving me the confidence to tackle that job sometime in the future. do i have to loosen both side of the tranny? i only have the right side idler chain off, do i need to get both off? sorry for the dumb questions but the machines in my shed and i don't have the room to get to the other side. thanks for the help rock doctor!!

trevor

[argoford]

I to had hard time getting set screws out I replaced with longer ones. so they stick out past the sprocket so you can get a visgrips if it gets stuck wont help this time but mabe next time.

[trevorakm1]

now that's a good idea, where did you get the longer set screws? i got new bolts for the front entended bearing housing and flanges as mine were all rusted but i went through argo. they look like regular carriage bolts and was goin to look for some at lowe's just haven't had a chance. i would like to have a place locally to get some of this hardware if it's not specific, cuts down on shipping, overall cost and wait time for parts. if i can get the longer set screws locally i'll do that right away as i don't want to go through this again. the new ones i got from argo have loctite already applied and man it holds. i'ld like to put my own loctite on in a more sparring manner, trying to prep for easier maintenance in the future.
thanks
trevor

[Rock Doctor]

the allen is too tight and after breaking a wrench off in the set screww on the rear sprocket, i guess i'm afraid it might happen again. first it's the lower screw so i can't see it and second if the wrench breaks i'm screwed as a do it myself project as i'll be at a loss of what to do and limited tools. i'm a mechanic in training with this machine. i like working on this thing but i like riding better and i don't work on my own cars. i have a 1981 toyota fj 40 landcruiser i'ld like to restore and this machine is giving me the confidence to tackle that job sometime in the future. do i have to loosen both side of the tranny? i only have the right side idler chain off, do i need to get both off? sorry for the dumb questions but the machines in my shed and i don't have the room to get to the other side. thanks for the help rock doctor!!

trevor

No worries mate, the Allen Wrench for the Brake Caliper Bolts is much bigger than the one for the bearing Setscrew. So long as you have the right size, and you are using a quality wrench, you will not break, or strip it. Grit your teeth, hold your tongue the right way, make sure the planets are aligned correctly and TURN that wrench. Worst case scenario, you break the head off the bolt, but at least that will allow you to get the brake rotor off (Deal with the bolt after that if required)
Those are long bolts under the tranny, you just have to loosen one side. They have lock collars that are supposed to stop the bolt from turning when you loosen the nut, but they don't really work all that well, you may need a "backing" wrench to loosen (hold the bolt head).
You need both idler chains off, and the bolts loosened. Once you have that done, there is nothing holding the trans down and it will lift up till it hits the upper tub. (There is a goofy little brace from the upper tub to the top of the trans, you might have to loosen)
Good luck, and don't be afraid to break that Allen Head Wrench, or the bolt.................Be afraid of smashing your knuckles

Good Luck
RD

[trevorakm1]

no worries mate, i like that, i have a aussie buddy and that's what he always says. he calls you canucks pom's, you know what that means? anyway i'm gonna try to lift the tranny, have you ever had to deal with the idler shaft on your argos? if i can get past this it's all down hill on the right side. should go back in the same way it came out right? also, i got some wear grooves on all three axles and filled them with jb weld and painted the axle and hub. i taped off the axle just before the groove repair it shouldn't affect the grease seals around the axle should it? i found that all the bolts at the outer bearings were rusty, should i put a dab of silicone around the bolt head when i reassemble the axles, it seems like a place to potentially leak?

thanks
trevor

[trevorakm1]

SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!! i got the idler shaft out! took my nephew to stand on the pry bar to get the tranny up but then out it came. thanks rock doc for the advice, i need to order another sprocket due to some wear on the teeth and a flange set up due to wear from no bearing but all in all not bad. fishing tomorrow then reassembling thursday. that'll give me one side done and on to the left. luckily there's no damaged bearings on that side, should be easier, i hope. i'm glad i am doing this, it's a learning experience and i probably wouldn't have maintained the machine properly if i didn't. thanks for all the replies from everyone and once again this site is a wealth of knowledge.

trevor

[Rock Doctor]

no worries mate, i like that, i have a aussie buddy and that's what he always says. he calls you canucks pom's, you know what that means? anyway i'm gonna try to lift the tranny, have you ever had to deal with the idler shaft on your argos? if i can get past this it's all down hill on the right side. should go back in the same way it came out right? also, i got some wear grooves on all three axles and filled them with jb weld and painted the axle and hub. i taped off the axle just before the groove repair it shouldn't affect the grease seals around the axle should it? i found that all the bolts at the outer bearings were rusty, should i put a dab of silicone around the bolt head when i reassemble the axles, it seems like a place to potentially leak?

thanks
trevor

POM's, eh? Hmmm.....................No idea actually.
Yes, Idler Shafts are a Pain in the butt. Make sure you put the idler shaft sprocket on the right way, otherwise the chain will eat the sprocket off the brake rotor. Seals should be fine as long as they have a clean/smooth running surface. I don't use silicone unless I have to, Those bolts pass through a cork gasket, and should seal up when the gasket gets squished between the flanges.


RD

[trevorakm1]

rock doctor?, should be the argo doctor!

thanks again,for the replies, it's almost like your not working on these things alone.

trevor