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80ish 8x8

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  • 80ish 8x8

    Hi all,

    First time poster as I have recently acquired an 8x8, it is an early model around 1980 I think TB 2162 (I think). It has the 16hp Tecumseh engine which still goes ok but will be replaced with a larger engine as soon as I work out what is the simplest changeout for the greatest gain. any thoughts?

    I have a couple of questions that may be able to be answered by some of the experienced Argo owners here.

    1. I have a slightly bent axle by the looks, are these still availably to by new? If so is it worth upgrading to double row chain and replace all axles and sprockets?if so where would be the best place to purchase all these parts ( I am in Australia but can order from Canada/US if needed)
    2. Does anybody know the bearing size so I can purchase them?( have not pulled apart as of yet.
    3. The right side of my Argo has a brake at the rear of the machine as well, but not on the left, why is this?
    4. Has anybody ever thought of a clutch assembly between the 2 chain drives that could be engaged like a diff lock for a short time to get you out of trouble when all power is going to the unloaded side?
    5. When I pull the frame out is it beneficial to put more bracing in?

    Any help the group can give would be greatly appreciated as I will be pulling the Argo down to restore it.

    Cheers

    Corey

  • #2
    Corey pull the Tejunksie out and put a nice 23hp Briggs Vanguard in it you will have tons more power and be dependable for many many years, axle you can pull out and give to a machine shop to fix, in my own opinion it is not worth upgrading to double row just buy good quality chain and do not use roll pins use high grade bolts, not sure what the brake at the rear is maybe somethin someone added, yes brace the frame to beef it up just make sure you have room left to put floor pans back in
    '99 Conquest 104hp turbocharged intercooled EFI Chevy Sprint conversion
    "Argo 8x8's only" type of guy
    "old school Argo expert"

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    • #3
      80ish 8x8

      Thanks for the repy,

      From a bit of reading of the forum it seems as though an inch shaft on the new engine will be the easiest to install, correct? Also would I Need to change anything with the clutch Assemblies if I do this?

      I will try to get a photo of the rear brake as it looks standard, unsure why only I side.

      What have people found to be the best for coating the frame etc ( powder coat,paint,underbody sealer)? I live near the beach so I need something that is durable and that will seal from the salty conditions.

      I would love to change the mechanical brakes to hydraulic, has someone completed this conversion?

      I appreciate the help, had a huge play before I started pulling her apart. Chains were shot so it was no surprise I broke 3!! Lol.

      Cheers.

      Corey

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      • #4
        I just swapped out my oh160 for a briggs 18 and the only mod requred was a few washers for a clutch spacer. I used the same clutch and belt.
        l like to buy stuff and no I don't do payments!

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        • #5
          Argo

          Thanks for the info, I will probably follow a similar process, does anybody know the bearing numbers I will need to replace all the drive line bearings?

          Cheers

          Corey

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          • #6
            You want to stick with paint for the frame powder coat in my findings does not hold up well and underbody sealer never fullly dries. the Ideal thing to use would be a por 15 or some other type of rust inhibiter paint like we use on car frames. POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks It is

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            • #7
              hi boxhead

              have you had a chance to take any photos of that rear brake yet? i am interseted to see what it is like.
              mate what part of QLD are you in, i am in brissy.

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              • #8
                Yeah mate it is in another thread,



                I am located near mackay, do you have an older model or a newer one?

                Cheers

                Corey

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                • #9
                  I have been researching upgrading to hydralic breaks also. I think im going to use "gokart" hydralic breaks, probbably the ones with 1 1/4 cylenders. google search "cutting break" or use a gocark mastercylandre. make sure you get the kind that have DOT 5 break fluid. probably 200 to 400 dollars per side, depending how caried away i get
                  Alaska floating atvs group on face book. Fixing help and trail rides!!!!!


                  https://www.facebook.com/groups/alaska.AATVs/



                  85ish Argo 8x8 geo metro engine, hdi axles and 3 bearings per axle.

                  78 ford bronco... 460 lockers.... "Alaskan tow vehicle"

                  ATV = Alaska Terain Vehicle

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                  • #10
                    Boxhead

                    I have a 1991 magnum, it is up in Townsville with my dad, we use it more up there as he has access to a few big (thousands of acres) properties.

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                    • #11
                      Nice one, would like to get a later model like yours. so I will need to keep my eyes out as they are harder to come by here than in the states.

                      Cheers

                      Corey

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