"Floating" sprockets????

[newargoowner]

I started working on my 87 Argo. Should the front wheel sprockets "float" on the spline (The left side was floating, the right was locked down)?

[Obsessed]

Yes...they should both be floating...i understand that is so they dont seize to the axle as that is a difficult spot to work on.

Btw... the two inner idler shaft bearings are also left unlocked so that when the frame twists and flexes it does not side load the bearings and prematurely wear them out

Best of luck

[trevorakm1]

i just replaced the inner idler shaft bearings and i tightened the bearing set screws is this wrong? i know the idler shaft is supposed to slide throught the bearing to remove the shaft butwhile its all together are those bearing set screws supposed to be loose? thanks.

[Obsessed]

Outside bearings locked down...inside loose. As the frame flexes the distance changes slightly and side loads the bearings if they are both locked down.

Thats my understanding

[trevorakm1]

that stinks, and i thought i was done with all that. hopefully i can get in there and loosen those set screws without much disassembly. oh well live and learn. thanks for the heads up, don't need anymore bearing damage or sprocket damage, there was more than enough done from neglect when i got the machine.

[chinook]

Obsessed, good tip thanks.
"inside loose. As the frame flexes the distance changes slightly and side loads the bearings if they are both locked down"

[Buddee]

Just to clarify.... when you guys say outside you mean the wheels or in where you sit?

[trevorakm1]

buddee, when referring to inside or outside they are referring to the outer bearing or the inner bearing. outer bearing being the one on the outside edge of the frame/tub...closest to the tire, and the inner bearing refers to those closest to the center of the tub. same would apply to the idler shaft which is where this thread went to. on the idler the outer bearing set screws are locked and the inner bearing set screws are not, these are the ones directly under the tranny. hope this helps. obssessed, in terms of frame twist would the same loading factors apply to the inner and outer axle bearings? and given the fact that the inner bearings are fixed by the bolt and thrust washers, should the set screws on the outer bearings be loose? when i reassembled the front axles on my bigfoot i left the set screws loose on the outer bearings anyway due to inaccessabilty once installed due to the bearing extension. i set them though on the middle and rear axles though because i could get at them. although the axles are fairly tight in the inner and outer bearings as opposed to the inner bearing and the idler shaft, maybe making a mountain out of a mole hill here. thanks trevor

[trevorakm1]

i read through the argo service manual for the bigfoot that i down loaded and it tells you to apply loctite onto the idler shaft inner bearing set screws and torque to the specifications. not here to argue with anyone at all but just want to make sure i rebuilt my machine correctly to avoid any more damage. i'm open to more opinions on the issue as i'm a novice mechanic and the side loading arguement makes sense for bearing preservation. the other thing that concerns me now is the actual sprockets on the idler shaft that float. someone mentioned this not to long ago and i want to verify because i'm a little confused from the service manual... does the set screw hole side of the sprocket go towards the inner bearing or towards the outer bearing? apparently if the sprocket is reversed it will eventually damage the brake disc sprocket, wearing it prematurely. i know on my machine the rake disc didn't want to budge when i trie to remove it so would hate to mess this up. i'll look for the thread about this.

[Rock Doctor]

i read through the argo service manual for the bigfoot that i down loaded and it tells you to apply loctite onto the idler shaft inner bearing set screws and torque to the specifications. not here to argue with anyone at all but just want to make sure i rebuilt my machine correctly to avoid any more damage. i'm open to more opinions on the issue as i'm a novice mechanic and the side loading arguement makes sense for bearing preservation. the other thing that concerns me now is the actual sprockets on the idler shaft that float. someone mentioned this not to long ago and i want to verify because i'm a little confused from the service manual... does the set screw hole side of the sprocket go towards the inner bearing or towards the outer bearing? apparently if the sprocket is reversed it will eventually damage the brake disc sprocket, wearing it prematurely. i know on my machine the rake disc didn't want to budge when i trie to remove it so would hate to mess this up. i'll look for the thread about this.

If your Idler Shaft Sprocket is backwards, you will damage your Brake Rotor Sprocket, Kinda Like this:



As for the Setscrews, now that you have locktighted the ones on the inner Bearing on the Idlershaft, I wouldn't worry about it.

I used to be a fan of NOT locking the Setscrews down on the bearings, but have had it explained to me by a couple Bearing and Vibration EXPERTS, that I am causing the bearings to fail prematurely.......
However, I don't lock everything down. The front axle Sprockets float, the Inner Idler shaft bearing Floats, and the Idler Shaft Sprocket as well. I also don't use Locktight, just clean and tighten


RD

[trevorakm1]

hey rockcoc, i've been reading through the service manual and it seems i have the idler sprockets on correctly, set screw hole inwards and floating. i didn't use loctite on anything due to the trouble i had trying to disassemble the whole drive train. i replaced 3 good sprockets due to the fact i had to cut the set screws out to free the sprocket from the axle. i did the same as you i just cleaned parts applied some never seize and reassembled. i did tighten the set screws on the inner idler shaft bearings as the old ones were also tightened. the only ones not tightened were the outer bearing on the front axles. i didn't know the exact placement of the bearing to the axle so i just slipped everythiing on and inserted into frame and tightened what was exposed and accessable. i tried to prep for ease of dissasembly in the future. i think i got it all correct, my machine is so much quieter now and i've learned alot. your video was very helpful! the only thing i want to run by you is this.... i just found in the service manual, that they say pack the outer bearing flange with grease once on the axle and then put bearing on and so forth to finish assembly. i didn't pack the bearing flange with grease i just assemled and greased the flange when done. not really sure how much grease to inject so i pumped and rolled the axle until i got the start of grease oozing out of the inner flange and bearing joint. will this suffice...the bearing flange full of grease at this point? i also pumped grease into the other zerk on the out bearing flange until i got grease starting to ooze out from the seals and i also rolled the axle while doing this, when do you stop and have enough grease? do people pack the bearing with grease before assemly? i didn't and now i am realying on that little hole on the bearing to get grease to the internal parts of the bearing. my fear is that my machine had two bearings completely destroyed and nothing left but the inner bearing collar on the axle. i assume it was caused by neglect and improper greasing or none at all...trying to avoid this myself.160 hrs and two blown bearings and very little damage to most components, very robust machines i will say. anyway... where's that brake service video rock doctor? thanks for the answer trevor

[Rock Doctor]

I think you did fine, I don't pack the outer flange either, just pump grease in after assembly. Personally I don't think much grease will ever get in that little hole, but also don't think it has to, it's already greased and sealed.
I've seen bearings fail in under 50hrs, and also seen them last for over 500hrs. I feel that contamination plays a huge roll in this, and that the extra grease pumped into the Bearing cavity and seals is more to prevent contamination than to lube the bearing.

I have some major work to do to my Conquest, so a Brake Service vid will be coming in the near future.


RD