Tweet
I started the process of changing all my inner and outer bearings and am having problems with the set screws that hold the sprocket in place. I am going to try some heat tmrw. Any other ideas. Had a nifty axle pusher made that bolts to the inner flange that works great now the allen screws are whipping me.
-
-
i just completed mine and i took time off between side due to this issue, what a bear. i used jb blaster, 3 in 1 penetrating oil, heat repeat again soak longer and repeat, easy outs that smapped, allen wrench that snapped and lot's of patience. i had to cut with a dremel tool and cuttin whell let's see... front right inner bearing off, outer bearing right idler shaft, double sprocket center axle right side and rear sprocket right side, front inner bearing left side middle single sprocket left side and one brand new outer bearing middle axle left side. also replaced a couple more double sprockets each side due to excessive wear. hopefully the previous owner of yours was moremaintenance saavey than mine was. anyway i also tried vinegar and coke as soakers no luck, but i think someone here said after that they have used brake cleaner to break the set screws free. i'm curious but be carefull and neat if you try it. if it works that would be good to know. anywaymake sure you use never seize for the rebuild. i used it everywhere i had the slightest bit of resistance in diassembly. oh by the way i'm not what you would call a mechanic and roc doctors vidoes and input from him and others help greatly.
trevor -
Yeah everything is getting anti seize on the rebuild. I'm changing all the bearings so I can cut them but my sprockets are fine. May drill out the set screws and re tap to bigger ones if they don't come out. Already stripped a couple Allen screws.Comment
-
yeah i had to drill one set screw to get the sprocket off the axle. i used it as a test bed for different techniques to break the bonds. nothing worked, that's why i'm sort of eager to see if brake cleaner would work. i'm also limited with tools, like i said i'm no mechanic.
trevorComment
-
My buddy just told me. The BEST stuff to use to break free rusted solid Exhaust Manifold Nuts/Bolts is probably Iodine. It can take several applications, over a week or two, but it WILL WORK.
So, I'm interested if it will help your situation. I would warm up the setscrews/sprockets with a small torch (NOT smokin cherry red hot, but hot). Drip some iodine on the setscrews and let it soak, maybe repeat a couple times over a couple days.
On a side note, if you have to assemble "HOT" parts, like Exhaust Manifold Nuts, or Spark Plugs, stuff like that, I find that the best thing to keep those threads from siezing up is to coat them with the "White Paste" found in "Milk of Magnesia" (Yes, the stuff for heartburn/upset stomach). Grab a bottle, DON'T shake it, poure off the clear liquid, at the bottom of the bottle you will have a white paste left over. I ALWAYS put this on the threads of the Spark Plugs on our N2 Gas Engines at work, it's awesome. If I dont put it on, sometimes the SP's will tear the threads righ out of the cylinder heads.
RDComment
-
I'm also tearing down my 87 8x8 argo. I used pb blaster. I starting spraying them a couple weeks ago. I just got all of the set screws out today. I must have gotten lucky. I only had one set screw give me a problem. but i think it was cross theaded. good luck!Comment
-
Thanks I will try the iodine Fri. If that does not work I can get 3 out and maybe one more then it may be time to order 4 new HD axles and cut the rest out.Comment
-
if it's sprockets you can't remove don't cut the axle, cut thesprocket arount the set screw and then slide off axle.Comment
Comment