Conquest 8x8 re-build

[Stonewall]

Canadian beer boxes will only work for Argo flange gaskets. Max takes American beer boxes.

Jagermeister boxes are universal fit...

[Mike]

(Canadian would be my choice )

Canadian beer boxes will only work for Argo flange gaskets. Max takes American beer boxes.

[Rock Doctor]

One thing I can't find a part number for is the gasket between the two bearing flanges that hold the inner bearings.

I may just have to make these out of an old inner tube or something.

Looking good

As for the gasket between the inner bearing carriers, it used to be a "Card Paper" kind of thing. I don't bother with anything there on mine, but if you think you need gaskets, you could just cut some out of a Beer Box or something like that (Canadian would be my choice )



RD

[Dan67]

I was wondering the same on the inner bearing gaskets. I looked up the part numbers from the Points West Argo online manuals. On the later versions of the Conquest, it looks like they did away with them entirely. I guess you could use a cork gasket if you feel the need for it. I would suggest maybe upgrading to angled grease zergs on some of the inside fittings to make general maintenance easier on you when you put the engine and tranny back in.

[mitchamus]

I've finally put the parts order in to argoparts.com to get the axles in order, plus a couple of gaskets for the exhaust.

(2) Muffler Gasket 620D (11060-2079)
(9) Bolt 5/16-18 x 3/8 1/2 Dog (112-03)
(8) Bolt 3/8x16x1 Axle Center (112-31)
(3) Brg. Flange, 4 blt.clipped (605-63)
(2) Outer flange 2 seals (605-97)
(1) Bearing Flange (101-20)
(1) Slider Block (603-61)
(3) Chain Tensioner, Upper Arm (603-77)
(3) Chain Tensioner Lower Arm (603-76)
(6) Axle Seal CR 12379 (102-15)
(6) Axle Seal CR 12361 (102-14)
(2) Drain Plug (100-18)
(12) Gasket, Outer Bearing Flange, Cork (605-89)
(4) Gasket, Bearing extension (605-69)

new bearings will come from a local supplier at $19 each.

One thing I can't find a part number for is the gasket between the two bearing flanges that hold the inner bearings.

I may just have to make these out of an old inner tube or something.

[mitchamus]

ha ha thanks! - I read the exact same thing!

Once I have cleaned it up -I'll be sure to get the exact numbers of it and order the right ones.

I may just clean & gap the ones that are in it if the electrodes are not too bad. *shrug*

The engine looks dirty - I'm hoping it's only a thick layer of brake dust rather than oil.
- but we'll see.

[Dan67]

Make sure you get the correct spark plugs for the FD620D. I found this while searching for engine information.

When replacing spark plugs on the Kawasaki FD620D Liquid Cooled OHV Engine,
it is extremely important to pay strict attention to the specification number of the
engine being serviced. All Conquest vehicles manufactured prior to vehicle serial
number CB17857 require spark plug part number 92070-2072. Vehicles produced
from CB17857 with a specification number of HS12 or later require spark plug
number 92070-2112.

Kawasaki has made changes to the Cylinder Heads, Head composition, & spark plugs
of the FD620D. The newer spark plugs are longer and will cause damage if used in
an older spec. engine.

[mitchamus]

Until I get my axle parts, I'm now turning my attention to the FD620D Engine and the Tranny.

While it's out - is there anything I should do besides the obvious?

I have these things planned:
clean air filter
Flush engine with kero.
Change oil (10W-30 Synthetic)
Change oil filter (K&N - KN-138)
Change spark plugs + compression test. (plugs 92070-2072 OR 92070-2112)
Change gearbox Oil (Nulon Full Synthetic 75W-90)
Replace throttle linkage (looks bodged up)
Remove and clean carb
Replace fuel lines (and filter)
Change Cam gear from plastic to metal one?
Change brake fluid (Dot 5)
brake pads are fine, plenty of meat left on them

Clean everything!

Is there anyway I can test the clutch operation with it out of the Argo?

How much play should there be on the drive belt? coz this one is floppy as buggery. (2"+ play)

What sort of tests can I do on the Tranny while it's out?
Is there anything there I should be changing out or checking on it?

[mitchamus]

Got a little more done this weekend.

Top frame is finished, painted and bolted in, tank and tool shelf are also in.
also (not pictured) fuel pump has been cleaned & tested & bolted in.

tank2.jpgtank1.jpg

[mitchamus]

Cool thanks Dan - I'll not bother with the cable ties then.

[Dan67]

Yup, that is exactly how it is secured on my 2000 Conquest. I took my tray out to clean the top of the tank, its wedged in there tight too.

[mitchamus]

Can anyone tell me how the tank is secured?

from the service manual - it looks like it just uses the tool box on top to hold it in - Is that correct?

That seems strange to me. I might have to secure it with some giant cable ties.

I had a bit of a SNAFU with the top frame - and I had to rebuild it... it didn't turn out as nice the second time - but it's structurally sound.

[mitchamus]

ok - so I managed to get a new top frame fabricated.
As the old one was bent to buggery I couldn't take any measurements off it to make the new one - So I had to make one in place on the tub.

I cut the side pieces a little longer than normal to help with the old girls sag a bit better, Bolted them to the tub, and then went about cutting the cross pieces to fit.

Once cut, I bolted these to the frame, and using wet rags to protect the tub, tacked everything in place.

Once it was all tacked, I removed everything and finished welded it.

All that is left to do is to work out how to secure the fuel tank?? and then finish fixing everything it to the tub and frame

I've attached some pics of the frame being built, and the bent axle.

axle2.jpgframe2.jpgframe3.jpgframe1.jpg

[mitchamus]

Thanks for the heads up- the wont ship international anyway, they advised me to try a shipping-forwarder- but it's just too much hassle. I'll just use the local chain I think.

Made some more progress yesterday, got the left side chain tensioners cleaned up and reinstalled, however the right hand side ones - all 3 sets of upper and lower arms are broken. Some of them look like they've been cut!!!
I also found another axle flange that needs replacing, and also
- a bent axle!!!

As I'm still waiting to put my parts order in, I'm now going to move on to mounting the tank.
Which means- constructing an entirely new top frame
The existing one is so bent its not salvageable
Oh well, at least the steel is cheap!

[Dan67]

Just read my post, i dont know why the link didnt work for a cheap place to buy good single and double 50 chain.

Welcome to WWW.BELARUSAGSUPPLY.COM - Belarus Agricultural Supply™ <BR>Division Of Belarus Tractor International


good luck and keep us posted!

I called them and inquired about their chain, its imported from China.. Personally, I'll pass on it. I'm sure you can find some better chain elsewhere for not too much on ebay.

As an example I bought 2x 10ft rolls of Diamond 50-2 chain for about $110USD w/ shipping, and a 10ft roll of Diamond 60-1 for under $40USD w/ shipping. All chain is unused, new in box still sealed in plastic, shelf surplus, mfg dated as far back as 04/04/2003. Its out there you just have to be patent and look.