Conquest 8x8 re-build

[mitchamus]

ok so.. I cut one chain over the weekend - & it looks like the lengths are given to allow for the joiners - so you need to cut them at the stated lengths.

so cut the rears at 96, the mids at 70, fronts 42 and idler 40.

I cut one rear chain at 96 to begin with just in case - so avoided cutting a short chain WIN.

I also got each wheel squared away on the weekend. Double checked all the nuts, lubed all the bearings, and checked the tightness and location of each sprocket. found a missing grub screw from one sprocket which had a damaged thread. re-tapped it with a M8 x 1.25 thread.

- That all took ages.

I would like to find the engineer who designed the front right corner... and punch him in the face.
getting your hand in there to check everything is a giant pain - literally. Had to remove the battery and holder just so I could swing the ratchet...not enough swing room to get even 1 click!

made me wish for a stubby ratchet handle for the first time ever!

I also made new brackets to hold the front seat cushion in.

I think I'm also going to remove the air baffle/duct for the radiator. The body seems to hang up on it anyway.

next jobs are to cut, install and lube all the chains.

then connect up the brake blower, install the bilge pump bracket, hose & exit port.

Then I should be able to start repairing the top and get it bolted down.

It is cracked in a few places, and I am going to pop rivet in pieces of light ally behind the cracks

I also need to find some way of reinforcing the back rest mounts. One is cracked quite badly. I may add some RHS and bolt through to the top.

I may not be able to stop myself for taking it for a spin before then.... but must remember to fill with coolant first!!!!!

[mitchamus]

you can mix chains from third box to obtain the most left in box 4.

Ahhh yes.... well spotted! thanks.

[ARGOJIM]

The back four chains come from 2 boxes, you can mix chains from third box to obtain the most left in box 4.

Did you mess something up? maybe from roll 3 to 4.

[mitchamus]

If your chain is the double #50, #50 means it is 5/8 of an inch per pin or link if you prefer....so, 95 times .625 = 59.375 inches plus the master link.

great - thanks!

my chain is in 10' lengths

- so.. thinking out loud...
Rear chains 96P = .625x95 = 59.375 x 4 = 237.5" - which is almost exactly 2 lengths
Mid Chains 70P = .625x69 = 43.125 X 2 = 86.25" taken from roll#3 and leaves 33.75 inches left on roll 3...
Front chains 42P = .625x41 = 25.625 x2 = 51.25 1 taken from the end of roll 3 which leaves 8.125 inches on roll 3, and 1 taken from roll #4 leaving 94.375 inches left.
Idler chains 40P = .625x39 = 24.375 x2 = 48.75 both taken from roll 4 leaving 48.635 on roll 4.


have I messed something up?

[taz1013]

Hi mitchamus,
I am also in the process of rebuilding my 2001 Conquest. Reading through your project so far has given me a new lease of life. Mine has been a bit slow but I haven't faced some of the problems you have. Well done for sticking with it, it will all be worth it in the end.

[thebuggyman1]

Here's a question- how long is a '96P' chain? 96 links???

Or 95 plus the joiner??

If your chain is the double #50, #50 means it is 5/8 of an inch per pin or link if you prefer....so, 95 times .625 = 59.375 inches plus the master link.
If you have the #60 chain, it is 6/8 of an inch per pin or .75"

It is however, a much better idea to count the pins to double check your length......measure twice/cut once. "But I've cut it three times and it's still too short"

[mitchamus]

soooo Chains....

I finally got them!!

I can now say that the drive train is nearly done...

Here's a question- how long is a '96P' chain? 96 links???

Or 95 plus the joiner??

Or is it something totally different????

Can't wait to get them in...

[jbird]

your doing a fantastic job. it all takes time and money. It took me 8 years off and on to finish the resto. on my 69 dart. Im building a half hardtop for my 99 conquest this weekend. as soon as I figure out how to post pictures I will get them on. its about 350 bucks in cash and about 30 hrs labor.

[mitchamus]

awesome - good to know - thanks Dan.

[Dan67]

jackshaft bears are no problem with the power pack still mounted. remove all set screws off bearings and sprockets. slide the shaft back toward the center just enough to remove the outer jackshaft bearing and flanges. there may be allot of built up crud on the axle so clean and lube it to make the sprocket easier to slide on the spline shaft. move sprocket as close as you can to the outer end of the shaft. if the shaft wont pull out of bearing with all the set screws removed you can unbolt the center flange and wiggle it out. takes time but not too bad.

[mitchamus]

So - on the weekend I managed to get the wiring for the headlights working.

Turns out the lights do work, they were just not earthed properly, and there was no power to the switch.

But they are fairly sun damaged, and the reflectors are pretty pitted. I'm hoping the new ones I bought will slip straight in.

I also need to change the jackshaft bearings, which I really should have done before I put the engine in.
I'm hoping I can do these without removing the engine.

It's only the outer bearing that needs replacing on the left side. The right side is tight and solid.

[mitchamus]

That's a really good tip - I guess I really should do that!
I had never thought of that - but it makes total sense now that you say it.

I had not planned on painting the axles though.

I managed to find a set of driving lights off eBay that look like they may (fingers crossed) slip straight into the conquest mounts. They certainly look nearly identical. some trimming may be required.

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[Geologic]

image.jpgI'm building back my original owner 2001 conquest with 227 hours, when you replace the bearings you move the front and rear shafts to the middle and the mid shafts to front and rear for completely new sealing surfaces. I hope yours gets built soon I'm just now getting back to mine after a long break. When you move the shafts, you have to remove the paint from the axles then repaint what protrudes from the body after reassembly

[frenchconxion]

mitch, take a look at malpasonline.co.uk the 50-2 duplex chain works out around105 Aus $ for 5 m length they ship but not sure what the cost would be to your part of the world as a last ditch it is not a bad price, I will be using them as french prices make me feel faint! Hope this helps on the chain front. Nice rebuild, gives me hope for my project!

[mitchamus]

so...I started messing around with the wiring last weekend.

as yes... to absolutely no surprise at all - the previous owner has 'fixed' this as well.

all of the negative earth wires have been pulled from the earth BUS, snipped off and connected directly to the earth lead, and wrapped up in electrical tape.

There seems to be little to no wires coming from the other sides of the fuse blocks - which left me hoping they have not 'by passed' the fuse blocks somehow, but I did managed to blow a fuse - so here's hoping!


I managed to get the brake blower wired up, although I'm not 100% sure how it's working.... as I traced the wires back up the loom and ones been cut
(I guess it's a different wire or something - but funny/frustrating all the same)

I couldn't get the headlights to work, as there was no actual voltage running down the wires to the units.

The headlights themselves had been glued up with silicone, so I guess they used to get water in them all the time maybe...

I pulled one apart (to check the bulb - which was blown) and it was very brittle, and broke apart in my hands some, along the lines of some 'repaired' cracks.
which now I think about it - was probably what the silicone was really for!
The actual headlights themselves look to be about 1/2" smaller than the 100's of generic replacement rectangular lights I can find on ebay (typical)


I did manage to wire in a bilge pump, and added a switch for it on the dash - I just have to make up a bracket to hold it in the stock location which shouldn't be too hard.


I would love to go through the whole wiring loom and put everything back to stock, but I don't think I have the time... or the patience!
but who knows - some other wiring problem might present itself (like battery not charging) and I might not have the option!

The hour meter was also not wired up at all, and I could not find the wires/loom that were supposed to go to this.

I did mange to find a cheaper chain supplier, which have quoted me $80 less than the other place - so pretty happy with that.

Next steps are
get out a broken grub screw from one sprocket
get the headlights working
wire up hour meter
Hook up the brake blower tube
make bracket for bilge pump
stick on foam between the two shells
buy & fit the chains
lube everything
change the engine fluids
join the shells.