Magnum turning/braking/power issues, lever clearance HELP!

[footballshmootball]

Hey guys

I have a magnum with kohler engine, everything is good for about the first 5 turns then the problem is that when I try to turn the revs dip and feels like the argo doesn't have the torque to turn. When trying to turn the clutch doesn't fully grip onto the belt but the belt looks good (width 35mm). I have rebuilt the clutch and cleaned the belt/drive faces with brake cleaner, the clutch looks in very good condition so now am not sure whether the problem is to do with the revs or clutch/belt.

HELP! starting to piss me off!

Also has anyone had issues with their gear selector and levers hitting the metal and plastic above them? my engine has been slightly raised to tighten the chains but even putting it back to its lowest point the hand brake levers still hit...

[Slimpickin]

I would try a new belt. I had the same issue of the belt slipping and it's good now with the new belt.

As for the gear selector problem, are you tightening the chain coming off the transmission by adjusting the two bolts under the transmission. You first have to loosen the nut on the piviot shaft, then adjust the two bolts to lessen the slack in the chain. Your chain might be wore out, so it would need more adjustment. If that chain is worn bad, you'll chew up the sprockets, and if you think chain is expensive, try pricing out those sprockets and then take the time to change them.

Slim

[rapidroy]

One thing to consider with the levers contacting the upper body may be due to the body sagging across the middle. Look at the seat mounting brackets, this should be a straight line across from one side to the other. If they are bowed try jacking up the body band on both sides to see if this changes the space above the levers. As far as the steering problem goes,, I assume you rebuilt the driven clutch? If so what hole did you put the spring back in? Ive had the same issues with the good old magnum and with a little tuning here and there, especially there in the clutch, it turned and ran great.

[footballshmootball]

I rebuilt the clutch on the engine (I assume this is the driven clutch) and there is only one place the spring can be, it's a large blue spring and is between the clutch casing and a c clip on the shaft, I will check for sag in the body but everything looks pretty straight I think. The chains and sprockets look in good condition so I may have to remove a link or try half links. Thanks for replies

[teeko]

If you have to start removing links from a chain, chances are they are stretched too much. Here is a simple way to check chain stretch. With the chain wrapped around a sprocket, try to pull the links away from the sprocket. If the chain is tight, you're good. If the chain pulls away, time to replace. Slimpickin has a very good point about cost/time investment.

[rapidroy]

Okay, now we are getting somewhere. You have rebuilt the drive clutch (primary) and that's good. Next up should be the driven clutch(secondary) on the transmission, this is where you have the ability to change the pre-load thus keeping a lower drive ratio and keeping the engine in a better rpm range for more power while steering. There are several threads here that deal will tuning the secondary clutch and shimming, if necessary, the drive clutch. I call it a rock doctor clutch tune up.

[footballshmootball]

yess this sounds better!! will look into it!

[rapidroy]

Be care full when you pop the snap ring on the secondary clutch, it is under tension. Take note of what hole the spring is in when you remove it.

[Hurtmudman]

I agree that the Driven clutch is suspect, pre-load on the Driven should be adjusted. Also make sure the belt sits to the top of the shivs, the proper position = the top of the belt 1/16 of an inch above to top of the shiv of flush, never lower. If not pre-loaded properly or you have the wrong belt position the clutch may not shift properly resulting in less torque.

[footballshmootball]

Ok so i have been working away from home for quite a while but am now back to trying to solve this problem, could someone please tell me how to get this driven clutch of the shaft?! driving me mad! I have taken the bolt of the end of the shaft and it looks like theres a shim holding the clutch on but is this all? i cant get the thing out! HELP BEFORE I SET THIS THING ON FIRE

[rapidroy]

have taken the bolt of the end of the shaft and it looks like theres a shim holding the clutch on but is this all? i cant get the thing out! HELP BEFORE I SET THIS THING ON FIRE[/QUOTE]

Welcome back! I know the feeling well, clutch stuck and thinking of matches, well it looks like time for copious quantities a PB Blaster. Spray it in the bolt end and on the back side also, let it set and try again. There is only a 1/4" key on the shaft and a couple of shims on the trans side, nothing else but rust holding that baby on there. If you can get it off in one piece be sure to use anti seize on the shaft when it gets reinstalled, the shims prevent the clutch from contacting the brake rotors at max speed. I remember some guys using wedges behind the clutch to force it off, it will likely get bent doing that. Mine came off in about five pieces with the help of a portable band saw. Good luck!

[jerseybigfoot]

Make sure you have the correct trans belt before you bother to pull the secondary. If the trans belt is too loose you will also have a power problem.The secondary is very simple and usually works within reason even when the spring starts to fatigue. Also pull the bulkhead to see how the clutch back shifts under load. Argo clutches do not back shift very well under power in high gear, especially if you are climbing hills and making lots of turns. Does the engine seem to have enough power when you idle the engine back and then start the turn? If so then you have a back shift issue. unfortunately the back shift issue requires a new spring or an adjustment to the secondary clutch spring.

[footballshmootball]

i finally managed to get it off and tightened up the spring by one notch (from hole number 3 onto number 2) and only tested it for 5 mins but it seems better, i'm going to test it properly tomorrow and if it is still the same i am going to record a video of the clutches in action and let you guys see it and maybe yous can tell me what is wrong!