Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Project Bush Machine

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • prailleraide
    replied
    thanks mike and spookum.

    Nice to know, i had a thought about the crank, time will say the truth.

    I run a snowmobile P85, 12'' center, 35mm offset, with a dayco HPX5013 (3211070). The radiator is mounted front of the engine bolted on the custom hood



    Next Week i will test the machine on the trail

    Leave a comment:


  • spookum
    replied
    Very nice! Which clutches did you run? Where and how did you mount the radiator? PS I just got a message back from slim pickins . His G10 has 250 hours on it and still runni g strong. It seems that the g10 engines are taking the side load just fine (the side load from the tension on the crank caused by the cvt clutches)

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike
    replied
    Great job. Looks like a heck of a work horse.

    Leave a comment:


  • prailleraide
    replied
    hi everybody, here is an update on my project

    here is some pictures of the almost finished project





    new tracks installed today RS Bolduc 20 rubber tracks, really nice tracks!



    here is the rear of the machine with a winch mount and a removable support to skid some logs



    and thats what it looks!

    Leave a comment:


  • prailleraide
    replied
    Today, first ride outside with the new engine !

    almost everything went fine! except the driven clutch...

    need at least 5/8'' more clearance with the output shaft head bolt... it interfers while im giving half to 3/4 throttle.
    ugh hehe now i need to pull the complete powerpack to add some play in my engine support.

    but that setup works pretty well im so happy !

    Leave a comment:


  • prailleraide
    replied
    Hi spookum

    For now my digital camera need a new battery rofl i know i should get it...

    I used 1/16 sheet metal and build a box around the existing hood hole. The original plastic hood will be attached on the top of the new one
    It makes a bit weird yet, not painted and no finish but it should looks ok after everything's done.
    I also use the metal hood to pass my exhaust through and intake also.
    With that new space around the engine (new hood), I bolted the throttle cable pivot (made to use the original ARGO throttle twist, and the G10 throttle body cable), the prestone expander tank, the radiator also will be bolted on.

    For the rest of the project everything going well. I installed the 7041132 spring used with a polaris 3211070 belt, it seems to clutch at a pretty good spot. Will see when i will ride the machine, for now still in the garage jacked up. I also lowered a lot the idle rpm of the engine.
    I am now working on details.
    -I choosed to install a second fan on the left side for brakes, so now each disks will have its own blower for cooling
    -An easy removable dash, made with an alum 3'' angle, wires and relays hidden underneath, switchs gauges and functionalities etc.
    -Modified the steering bracket, the master cylinder was interfering with the alternator really bad.
    -Installed LED light for the front (less wattage lost for lights :P)
    -maybe installing a heat extraction fan left side, to help evacuate heat, will be switching ON with the thermoswitch radiator fan.

    I thought there will be plenty of rooms for this build, now this is filled with stuffs everywhere :P

    So thats it for now i have no pics yet

    Give me updates about your projects when you have any times !

    Leave a comment:


  • spookum
    replied
    hey, throw me some pictures of the build for the hood ( i need ideas, i haven't even started mine) The video is of the orange spring in it.... it was way to high.,

    I didnt (as of yet) put a tach on it, but i am more than satisfied, it seems to be low, maybe 900 to 1000 RPM? Maybe even less. It is a good point to start tuning. I dont know if it was making full shift out... i have not checked yet... but i beleive it will. It *should* have shifted the max shift out RPM down along with the engagement RPM. If it needs to be even lower (im fine with where it is now) you can shim the the clutch to drop RPM further still.... It is possible that he old orange spring (i think engagement compression lbs for the orange was like 150 lbs or so it is the one in the video i posted)

    Defanitly grab that spring... it seemed correct. If you run the more narrow argo belt it is EXPENSIVE!!!!! and not as durable as a sled belt. Go to manufacturing supply for cheap belts.... and i dont know if the angle on the side of the argo belt will match the angle on the clutch sheves for maximum power transmission???

    Drive Belts | Snowmobile Parts | MFG Supply

    I have plenty of polaris snow mobiles to get your offset or center to center for the clutches if you need it!

    Leave a comment:


  • prailleraide
    replied
    nice hehe ! sorry for your engine if it is the problem

    Do you know about how many rpm it start shifting with the 7041132? (34-141 lbs) and full shift out

    Im now working on the hood lift mod to get this engine hidden and may use it to mount coils, fuse block etc. its going well yet but alot of work.

    Leave a comment:


  • spookum
    replied
    Good deal. I didnt find out that i had an ATV clutch untill it was almost too late! I think im running that polaris spring i mentioned and either 58 or 62 gram weights. I was told to use the spring to get the engagement RPM down, and then adjust weights to find "full" CVT shift out. I just have to wait for the snow to go away and then find out if it is an engine rebuild OR just the motor mounts... but a full rebild including machien work is only 400.... not a bad deal at all i think!



    Here is the polaris part number 7041132 that i used. I got it from these guys. 34LB engagement i beleive.... Not all ATV springs swap into snow mobile clutches!





    .. that was with the Orange spring... the one i mentioned above makes it engage like a kitten! Shock loading the trans, chains and sprockets like that i did not like at all!
    Last edited by spookum; 01-21-2013, 07:07 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • prailleraide
    replied
    Originally posted by spookum View Post
    the polaris ATV clutches and the polars snow mobile clutches are not the same. They used different belt widths. You could (in theory) use a Polaris atv drive clutch and a polaris snow mobile driven clutch..... but it would ride down deeper on the polaris snow mobile driven clutch.... not too big of a deal.

    Ya well i mean an ATV spring and weight. For the Atv clutch and snowmobile, you could always shim the spider to get the appropriate ''belt to sheaves clearance''. Then you can get the belt grip at the good rpm with the spring and weight setup you have

    Leave a comment:


  • spookum
    replied
    the polaris ATV clutches and the polars snow mobile clutches are not the same. They used different belt widths. You could (in theory) use a Polaris atv drive clutch and a polaris snow mobile driven clutch..... but it would ride down deeper on the polaris snow mobile driven clutch.... not too big of a deal.

    The atv spring i mentioned "moves" the engagement RPM down lower, AND moves the maximum RPM down appropriatly too. This way you get full shift out

    also, the fire wall has to be modified to fit the bigger clutch.

    IN YOUR PICTURES YOUR DRIVEN CLUTCH LOOKS TOO CLOSE TO THE TRANSMISSION!!!!!!!!! when it shifts, it shifts toward the transmission... will it clear the brake caliper????

    Do you need a polaris ATV clutch? I ran the snow mobile polaris clutch with the ATV spring in them (IT WORKS WOO HOO!!!) and they are stronger (aka WIDE bearings for the weights) and they are stronger clutches, with better heat dispersion characteristics....

    ...but if you need a polaris atv clutch let me know i got one by mistake.
    Last edited by spookum; 01-14-2013, 02:19 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • prailleraide
    replied
    pictures are posted in the first post of this thread.

    The adapter wasn't free im affraid to say but i think worth it, 400$ cdn mats included and puller made also.





    This has been made at USINAGE CSW Enr. :

    Usinage CSW Enr - 708 Rte 111, AMOS, QC

    Yeah will probably look for a rzr 800 clutch or any 800-850 sportsman setup to start and will tune from there

    have a good day

    Leave a comment:


  • spookum
    replied
    What was the cost and source for your adapter? That would be really helpful! PM me if it is private (aka a name and number)

    also, get that spring coming! you defanitly need it for the polais clutch.

    My conversion seemed to be working flawlessly (did you see the vids?) Then either the engine developed a knock (no surprise, i ran it too hard, too many RPM and destructive HIGH engagement) or maybe ill get lucky and it is just a bad motor mount? At any rate, it got below zero farenheight and im afraid to move the wiring around to work on it, as it gets brital at these temps.

    good luck and keep me posted! more pics is better!!!!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • prailleraide
    replied
    thanks for the links Spookum.

    I just received my adapter, pretty nice machined part and fits very well.

    I bought a polaris belt, the longest they have.

    Now working on support and mount (pre alignment)

    waiting on universal alignment tool for fine alignment

    will post a bunch of pics soon . have a good day

    Leave a comment:


  • spookum
    replied
    Polaris clutch spring to lower engagement of snow mobile clutch.

    And you defiantly need this. Most sled clutches engage 3000 rpm to 4800 rpm. Use Polaris part number 7041132 to get your engagement down. You can dial it in for full shift out with clutch weights... i know, i know, that cluch spring show up now for use in "four wheelers" but back in the eighties they used them in sleds. So long as you have a P-85 clutch your going to be good to go. It will also keep you from shock loading all your chains!

    I bought mine from these guys:

    7041132 SPRING-CLUTCH $21.25


    ... oh and it is a heck of a lot easier to start machining the adapter with the end of a broken polaris crank (it is already threaded and has the correct taper). You should be able to pick one up pretty cheap, probably even less than the round stock!
    Last edited by spookum; 11-26-2012, 07:32 PM.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X