Advice on building a rack

[gokorn1]

So, Im about 10 pages into a search and haven't found what im looking for on building a rack. Moose season is about a month and a half away its time to get working.

I love the racks alot of you guys have built. I have been looking at how everyone is attaching the rack to the lip of the argo. I've seen several ways from short to long angle iron attached.

Can someone shed some light on the size of angle iron your using. Type of fasteners and are you water proofing it somehow? or does it even need it?

Any one ever thought about mounting the center supports to the frame?

[trevorakm1]

I would recommend if building from scratch then run the angle iron the full length of the body on the sides. Gives more support for the body/ tub and helps prevent the sagging you see on the older argos. I also found that using eye bolts instead of regular bolts make for great tie down points. My argo came with a homemade rack that really is more of a glorified brush guard. I didn't like it at first but have come to ove it. It was bolted down and I replaced all the bolts with eyebolts.

[rentalrider]

I think tying to the frame is a great idea. Like an upside down T center support behind seat. Just cut a groove in front portion of rear pan.

[newguy]

I am in middle of a build as well. The aluminum frame for the top is done, aluminum roof as well, will attach in next few weeks (got some home improvements going on that are higher priority right now). I will try to post a pic or two tomorrow. I used 2" x 2" x .125 5056 series aluminum for the runners down the length of the rack support. Most metal supply centers will call it "marine" aluminum due to use in boating. 50- and 60- series aluminums are both weldable and either will work but 5056 is more user friendly (bends more easily without cracking). I used 2" x .125 round stock for the rack frame. It's still a work in progress since i am adding an aluminum brush guard and folding windshield. The rack at present with aluminum top is about 120 pounds. I don't want to go much heavier since my moose hunting spot includes a river crossing (not real fast, but deeper than 6'). I see you are in the Valley. If you are ever passing through N. Pole, you're welcome to stop by and see what I've done.

[gokorn1]

I may be up in North Pole area around moose season. Please post pictures when your done.
Thanks for the info

[spookum]

Im in north pole too! we should sit down and have a few adult beverages! Time for moose season all ready *sigh* let the CRAZY building begin...

[gokorn1]

My buddy has mudd ox and we are planning a pretty extensive moose trip this year if all goes well.

[spookum]

Way cool! Fairbanks and beyond is kind of along way from the valley. Just to let you know you have acess to my welder (220 wire feed and stick), ox-axetaline torch and a bunch of tools (no shop, just a gravel drive way), and a place to crash if you need it. Also if i ever get my argo back up, a friend that can run out parts or help if you need it. FYI Message sent with my phone number

[eldy]

My old argo had vertical pillers coming up at the fire wall to try and reduce the tree loading that wips buy the front passengers i am planing on angling them at 30 deg backwords from about 1 foot in front of the fire wall so the willows etc will go up before they unload. I still have angle bars from the front for the big stuff its the little stuff that pisses me off. What do you think?

[spookum]

I hate the willow slap that happens. I think that artic grade clear vinal doors are the best, when their shut. I want to be able to lay the winsheild down and keep the doors on so the drive and passenger are protected

[newguy]

Spookum; tried to respond to PM, your space is full.

[spookum]

my bad buddy! i got it fixed now so no worries!