Old argo frame extension so i can run HDi axles in a long axle machine

[spookum]

I cant be the first to do this, and i know i wont be the last. Pleas bear with me as i explain myself.

Hello all! With this thread i hope to explain my method for extending the inner frame rails in my argo. My old argo, a 84 I/C used long front axle. Problem is, that if i ever brake one, or bend one (one IS bent), i cant order new ones, there kind of non existent. Insteds im going to replace it with the The short HDi argo axel shafts. You dont have to run HDI axle shafts of course, you can use normal 6 spline argo axles too.

I didnt get good pictures, but i removed the old steel plate that was welded to the frame, just in the engine compartment. I am going to replace it with a FULL LENGTH peice that goes all the way down the frame. That should make it way stronger.

The frame:


The front of the frame. Nottice the old chunck of 12 Ga laying on the ground. Flipping the frame over i was able to get most of the welds. The 6 welds betwene the two existing frame rails were a MOTHER to get to. I just used a prick punch on either side of the welds and then drilled through so i could flip the frame over and have orinitation for cutting the welds. sorry i forgot to take a picture.



Have a peice of 10 gauge (or 12 gauge would be fine) formed into a frame rail, 20 inches long, 4 and 1/8 out side. Should look like channel, 4 1/8 by 1". I cut mine so the bottom is flush to the bottom of the existing frame and leaving an "ear" to weld onto existing frame. Flush to the bottom of the frame and clamp tightly. (I used a pair of vice grips to hold a strait edge on the bottom of the frame.. way easier than guess and check)




Use a 3/8 SHORT high speed bit to punch out the holes (after yo u get the holes use a 25/64 regular bit to punch them out)



Need a notch for the jack shaft to fit in. (going to do this a different way... stay tuned)



Million different ways to find a center point for cutting the hole with a 2 3/4 inch carbide hole saw (tried Milwaukee metal/wood saw that was a FAIL!!) AKbuff truck just made me a jig, but you could scribe the center with lines either with a strait edge or compass, either way find the center of the four holes and get a 1/4 inch hole.



voila!




Cutter Of doom... 80 bucks carbide steel cutter I think if your just going to cut 2 holes, a Milwaukee plain hole saw would work for just two (i cut a total of 18 holes so i stepped up on the big one. If your in Fairbanks AK PM me and you can borrow it)



looking kind of holey!



Please post up your cheers and jeers.. spelling questions, more pics of how you have done it or what ever. All input is welcome and appreciated. I especially love questions.... it all makes sense to me but clarification for you will help others too!

[spookum]

More of the build, and hopefully more in site into the fabrication techniques.

Now that the big hole is punched, flush the new frame rail to the bottom of the existing frame and bolt it in. I chose to give myself about a 1/16 of an inch clearence above the existing



Use soap stone to outline the hole for where the jack shaft goes



I added a quarter inch to the ouside of my circle, sides and bottom. Using a square, i made lines, and just eyeballed the bottom one.. Very important, using a scribe i scribed line from the top of the bearing hole to the top of the jack shaft hole and from the bottom of the jack shaft hole to the bottom of the bearing hole. This will be used to locate the cross brace.



Crosses are from the OD of the jack shaft sprocket and axel 24 tooth sprocket



cut out the jack shaft slot... nothing trickey here. you could use a hack saw and then the cut off wheel from the grinder for the bottom line. I got close and wiggled it out until the piece broke.




Set your old jack shaft and sprockt into the new frame rails. Push them as close together as you can (there is play). Scribe the teeth closest together. Measure the distance betwene the sprockets and find the mid point. Remeber the lines we scribed earlier? Find the middle of those at the mid point and punch a 1" 3/8 hole for your 1 1/4 Schedual 80 Cold rolled steel pipe to fit in. Yes i know it isnt tight, saves room for a weld and "oops" space.



Looing like a frame eh?





Now time to reinstall those soon to be thrown away long axel shafts as a jig to get all the hole strait.

[spookum]

Update on the frame extensions.

Install the old long axel shafts and make sure they are paralell to the outer frame. This may or may not take a while. Coat libraly with PAM cooking spray. It will keep the welding slag from sticking to the axels or flanges or bearing making life more easy.



Jack the inner frame rails up so they touch a string that is tied from the outer frame rails and go across the inner frame rails. Also use a two strings from corner to corner and measure the frame diagonaly corner to corner. This insures everything is strait and square before you weld the new frame rails in.



Looks like spider man has been playing with the frame...



Tack it up, and then use short welds to get it all welded together. Using short welds in a "star patern" distributes the heat and minimizes the chance you will warp the frame



With the super jack shafts in it



Super visor aproval:



Now you can weld a piece of plate back into the front of it. Between the new frame rails and the old ones and get alot of strength, or you can do like i did and make it full length like the "modern" argos. (id recomend a12 or 14 gauge).



I did screw up here. I should have gone under and tacked the bottom plate to the old inner frame rails. It kind of bowed an 1/4 inch on me..... dang

This concludes how i made new inner frame rails. I have left this separate from my main build thread because i want it to be an EASY reference for all others who wish to upgrade their old argo from long axels in the front to short axels. If you want to see where i went from here, come and take a look. It is not applicable to this "how to" thread. Please post up pictures and explanation of how you do yours! Cheers and see ya around.

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/argo-atvs/22921-master-build-thread-k-i-t-t-but-aplicable-all-others-2.html

[spookum]

Going to bump this thread up to the top. Please one and all, ask questions so I can be of more help!