Joe's 252 Colt Trail Machine "Gadget"

[JoeMeg]

Here are some pic's.
Cut these "splices" from aprox. 1/8" thick ABS. Took the bottom one and buttered it up with some thick goo,then placed it on the crack that I glassed over previously. Then I glassed over the splice.
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Soaked the T shaped pc in a jar of thick goo for about 16 hours,it was very workable. Waited a little more than two weeks before glassing over this and a similarly repaired corner.
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Took care of the muffler opening also.
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In preperation for the cold snap in the forecast I took the "MI" T-20 off of the cradle,or vice versa and brought it to the basement workbench. But not without first draining it. So,Jim,as promised I will do this one first. I got about 1/2 to 2/3 qt. of fluid out of it. The fluid was thin and free flowing even at about 35 -40 deg. it had a reddish/brownish color to it. No unusual odors,metal shavings or anything else in it. The shifters are free and move smoothly. They are not at all sloppy in their bores. When drawn snug,all four plungers protrude aprox. 1/4 to 5/16" out of the case. So,as of now it looks optimistic. Will most likely tear it down tue or wed evening.

Joe.

[JoeMeg]

The waiting is finally over. Jim,you didn't miss out on too much here
Upon disassembly found the right side band anchor pin bent,

I haven't a clue as to how we could do something like this,lol.
The planet drum is a little rusted but not so bad that a brief session on the lathe won't cure.

Ring drum not as damaged but still needs cleaned up a little. Sorry for the blurry pic

This is the area of the band closest to the bend in the anchor pin,a little longer and ot would have rubbed all the way through. I pulled the "flake" off exposing the steel band in the pic

Just another view of the planet drum.


Here is a pic of the case as a result of the bent pin.


The left side is roughly in the same condition(less one bent pin).
This trans will need;
One new anchor pin.
Two new bearings (they don't feel real nice).
Seals (SOP).
Drums turned on a lathe.
Bands sent to Trans Crafters to be relined.
A new right side case half if I can't repair the damaged boss for the anchor pin,yes,it appears the pin was ripped out of the hole,damaging it and bending the pin. WOW!

For now i will leave the output shafts,shift collars, and diamond shifters in the cases and bolt them back togather to use as a light(er) weight model for fitting the engine,etc.

Was kinda hoping to just re-use this one but it looks like I need to open up the "PA Colt" T-20 next and see about making one functional unit w/o purchasing anything(except seals) until the next one is required.

Joe.

[JoeMeg]

Another productive weekend. Opened up my "PA" Colt's T-20. This is the 5th T-20 I have acquired and the 5th one I have taken apart. This is,by far,THE nicest one I've seen so far. There was very little "toothpaste" in the bottom of the cases,drums are in pristine condition,not a mark on any of the four. The bands have .030"-.032" of friction mat'l left. They measure quite evenly along the entire length of all four. The bearings feel and sound fine. Something was going on with the left side of the machine years ago because the sprocket is pretty shark finned,so the "MI" T-20's left output shaft will most likely get a new input shaft needle bearing and be put in service. Other than that,this trans will go back together with new oil seals,double o-ring plungers on the bottom (ring drum bands) and a quart of GM Auto-Trac II synthetic fluid. It should then provide many years of trouble free service. Pic's are on the home computer,I'll post a few pic's later.
Nice and clean looking

Just scraped the sludge out

This is all the crud that was in both halves

Worn out sprocket


Joe.

[Mike]

Another productive weekend. Opened up my "PA" Colt's T-20. This is the 5th T-20 I have acquired and the 5th one I have taken apart. This is,by far,THE nicest one I've seen so far. There was very little "toothpaste" in the bottom of the cases,drums are in pristine condition,not a mark on any of the four. The bands have .030"-.032" of friction mat'l left. They measure quite evenly along the entire length of all four. The bearings feel and sound fine. Something was going on with the left side of the machine years ago because the sprocket is pretty shark finned,so the "MI" T-20's left output shaft will most likely get a new input shaft needle bearing and be put in service. Other than that,this trans will go back together with new oil seals,double o-ring plungers on the bottom (ring drum bands) and a quart of GM Auto-Trac II synthetic fluid. It should then provide many years of trouble free service. Pic's are on the home computer,I'll post a few pic's later.

Joe.

It's always nice when you don't have to do nearly as much work or spend as much money as you anticipated. Usually it's the other way around.

[JoeMeg]

Yeah Mike, isn't that the truth.

Joe.

[JoeMeg]

Well,the glassing and gooing of the lower body is now "complete". The last thing I did was close off the OEM drain hole in the back of the machine. Not sure where I want to re-locate the plug to,but I don't want it there. I'm assembling the frame in the basement. I'll try to get some pics tonite to post. It's just now warming to the point where all operations will be moving back out to the garage soon. Jeff,Drew or anyone else in the loop out that way,I could use an old,dead,garden tractor batt if anyone has one laying around and could arrange for it's trip to Meadville,it would be appreciated. I want to use it for fitting.

Joe.

[JoeMeg]

Starting to progress



Joe.

[JoeMeg]

The last "major" thing is the engine mount. Once that's bolted in it will be a downhill slide to completion.

Working on building the engine mounts here. Good thing for lots of c-clamps,don't have enough hands,lol.

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This is one of the nicer favors I have done myself recently. Hey NCT,you commented on one of my pics "is a track next?" sorry I never replied,but, Yes,and here it is.



Having the two units back to back like this is great. Really simplified the new engine installation.

,

Joe.

[North Country Tough]

Yea Budster thats a fine lookin build you got going on there,them opposed Kohlers aren't as high tech as newer engines but they got the torque and stone reliable,had many of them in earlier Argo,s,and sometimes the complexity of this fuel injected Avenger I got is a P,I,T,A had it fail back a few miles the other day no fuel pump,turned out the terminals on the fuel pump relay "cube" got a little green,scraped them with the jackknife and away we went,cant wait to see the finished product super nice job your doing Joe.Cheers NCT

[JoeMeg]

Thanks NCT. Got to learn the function of a Walbro WHG carb while installing a $6 rebuild kit and a $7 float. Runs real nice now. With this knowledge I anticipate good results from this engine.

I need to make a decision soon about the lower tub. I have exhausted my limited skills using the search function to find info on painting ABS. The tub of my build is downright nasty and I have MUCH better things to do with my time than to attempt any further cleaning. So,it's paint it or leave it. If anyone has ANY input,I'm all ears.



Engine mount is basicly done short of cutting slots in the mach frame cradle for belt adjustment. A battery box has been fabricated and located in the frame. I have a set of T's for the lat's in the electrolysis tank now. Need to make a small bkt to tie rear hitch thru body to frame. I will replace the fuel tank and do some of the dash switches and wiring with the mt tub upside down and with the front raised up. This is much eaiser than laying on my back in the mach reaching up.



Joe.

[amphibious drew]

Hey Joe. Try a small palm sander like a mouse with 80 grit on it. Do a quick sanding and then wash with acetone. There is no need for stepping down grit if you do an acetone wash which makes it a relativly quick process. Also, I have some parts for you at my place, but I will not be home this weekend as its mothersday.

[JoeMeg]

Thanks Drew, I have a small Makita palm sander. I was thinking of doing as you suggest to try to remove some of the "dead" mat'l on the upper then give it an acetone wipe and see what happens. Didn't think of sending it into the lower tub to tackle this job. Perhaps a sheet of that abrasive mesh used in the drywall sanding tools instead of sandpaper for the crap baked into it.



10-4 on the parts. I may be in Andover sat 5-18. I'll touch base with you when it's a little closer. Thanks for gathering the stuff up for me.

Joe.

[JoeMeg]

Had a few minutes last evening so I headed to the garage with a small piece of 100 grit paper. I was impressed at how quickly the material was able to be removed without much effort. Loading up of the paper didn't seem to be much of an issue and the little bit stuck in the paper shook right out. I then gave it a quick wipe with acetone. It doesn't look like one of Joe H's units but is a lot better than the chalky texture that many years exposure to the weather bestowed upon it. I originally convinced myself that this would be a knock down,drag out process (more so just as an excuse to procrastinate) and was about to settle for leaving well enough alone,until now. I'm going to look for one of those sponge sanding pad things with some 60-100 grit material on it and see how that fares on the upper body. As far as the lower tub,I'm stiil with Drew on the POWER tool idea,lol.

Joe.

[JoeMeg]

More progress. Welded small bosses onto the pivots for the lat's to install grease fittings. I got the idea from this site. Saw another member did it.

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Made a "model" for a fresh air intake plenum. Eyeing up the remote filter mount.

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Seal installed.



Making the real thing and beginning installation.

;;

Joe.

[jpswift1]

Great innovations there, Joe. Those small upgrades are what make a good build, great! Looking forward to seeing this in person soon.