anyone know the history on this racer?

[racerone3]

rednecks like shiny things

hopefully some ebay listings will go well, and i'll have some T-20 parts coming next week. untill then i just have to keep busy with other things. i got the fuel line in it and filter mounted. noticed that i couldn't remove the floor pan with the seat installed... by the time i got it cut down enough (no worries, it was already mangled) to work it was to flimzy to do anything with. so i decided to build one. stealing a rough idea from the foot rests in the McCay, i machined some bungs to raise the new pan off the frame for sprocket clearance. cut out a new floor from .90 aluminum and was good to go... but that didn't seem fancy enough. i tried to get it lazer etched, but our machine at work will only do a 4" area. so i spent last night with masking tape and an exacto knife, then sand blasted this morning. here is what i came up with. tomorrow i'm off in search of a carb kit. will it be really tough to put the t-20 in with the engine already installed? if not i can get it in and start wiring this weekend

[racerone3]

baby got a new set of shoes

well... 2/3 of a set. i got a great deal on 4 tires, and have a little time before i have to have all 6, so i'm looking for another great deal to come along. my axles got back from the machanist on friday. a week late, but hard to complain with free help i got them installed friday night and got my 4 tires mounted today. i'm finally starting to see what this thing is going to look like

[George]

Hey Brian,

It looks great.

I know what you mean about not needing the cage and harness. It's nice knowing it's there but you prefer the rides to be business as usual.

[racerone3]

thanks guys. i hope never to need the cage or 5 point harness, but it's there if i do. i'm picking up the axles tomorrow. hopefully i'll have the bearings and chain within the week. picked up some 4 lug wheels at don's house today... if all goes to plan it will be back on 6 tires by next weekend! then it's T-20 time. should be running in a month.

[whipper-ag]

Looks like you'll be ready for some serious rollovers. Nice job. Looks great.

Whipper

[LarryW]

Wow, that is really starting to look great.

[Mike]

Looks great Brian, I know you can't wait to get everything done. Thanks for the update.

[racerone3]

the office

got my cage painted last night, and the seat mounted. the seat isn't done, but close enough to mock up with. i used 3/8 aluminum tubing to band everything and avoid sharp edges, it's welded all the way aroundthe inside, abut the outside just has a few tacks. another lunch hour or 2 and it will be done. uncle sam came through with the "economic stimulus check" so i'll be ordering bearings, chain, and the T-20 rebuild kit on monday. then the only thing holding me back will be time

[racerone3]

reassembly

started puting the racer back together tonight. all the holes in the tub are patched. gas tank cleaned, painted and back in place and set the frame back in. luckily i mocked up the seat mount before i pulled the machine appart. my 6'3" neice was the closest person i could find to my height. i had her sit in the machine while i laid out the remaining roll bars and seat mounts to make sure i won't have any clearance issues. tomorrow i'll get the roll bars welded up solid and paint them. then i'm waiting again... axles are at the machanist and still no bearings. all my bearings were killed and i can't find a # for the inners. (pressed in type) anyone know a part # for them? i'm trying not to get too many parts torn down at once but if i don't get the bearings soon, i'm gonna have to tear into the T20!

[Don]

I can't tell you what's best, but I'll let you know what I do and it seems to work.

I wouldn't bother masking off the sprockets, they'll be bare where the chain rides soon enough. Graphite may work on the axles, but I know the copper or aluminium anti-seize compounds work well and don't wear away easily. Usually the concave washers are welded to the tube because the hole in the tube was "egged out". You can weld the rest, but if you need to replace the tube later you'll need to either cut them off or get new ones.

Just my 2 cents- good luck.

[racerone3]

reassembly questions.

i'm hoping to start puting the driveline of my racer back together next week. i have a few questions first though. i'm getting ready to paint the sprocket tubes, do i need to mask off where the chain will ride, of just let the chain chew the paint off? i'm making my axles from 4140, what should i coat them with to prevent this maching from ever becoming rusted solid again? i was thinking dry graphite? do i need to grease the axles when i put them back together or just a light oil to help things slide? and... on one of my axles, the bolt spacers were welded to the sprocket tube. good idea or bad idea? i can weld them all tomorrow if it's considered the way to go, and still get some paint work done tomorrow night. thanks for your suggestions

[racerone3]

Larryw, i'm sure this won't be the last time i use this method, thise machines are like a disease... i can see several more in the future. my wife didn't enjoy driving the terra tiger, but i think she'll really enjoy a machine with a real trany. i'm sure i'll be be building her one in the future as well as one for my son. oh, and a few more for me.

[LarryW]

Well that is good to hear you got them off. The hardest part is done and forever easier if you ever have to do it again.
LarryW

[racerone3]

more pics

more of the axle removal

[racerone3]

found an "easy" way

well... i got the axles out. i'll send them to the lab on monday for testing. i think they are made of kryptonyte. i bought 1 of every sawzall blade lowes had trying to find one to cut these things. i also bought a cheap angle grinder and some cut off wheels. the axles removed teeth from the blades with alarming speed. i did however find a method that worked... here it is.

with the axles hanging, i used the cut off wheel to slit the outer bearings, taking care not to nick the flanges. holding the grinder almost perpendicular to the tub, i made 2 cuts in the outer race. then using a pry bar and hammer, removed the outer race. i pried the cage that holds the ball bearings off. back to the cut off wheel, i cut the lock collars in the same manner as the outer races. using pliers, i tore the bearing seals off. finally i cut the axles outside of the tub and pulled them in. if the wheel hubs would have come off, i wouldn't have had to cut the axles at all. monday i'll torch and press the stubs out of the sprockets and be ready for the rebuild. not sure if this method will work on other machines, but it went well on the Attex and took less than an hour to get them all out. wear saftey goggles, leather gloves (i melted an nylon mechanics glove to my finger) and some ear protection.