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Help Identifying This Attex? No serial?

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  • Help Identifying This Attex? No serial?

    Hey guys, i've been browsing the sight for a few days now and havent been able to figure out what model Attex i picked up this past weekend with a trade. I couldnt find a serial number anywhere. It has an 18hp Vangaurd, i believe a T20 with number A-0024, the exhaust exits on the right/drivers side between the rear two wheels, and it has dual temperature gauges on the dash. Any idea what it might be? It's orange with a roll bar. The chaincase is a little rusty but i sprayed the chains down and it rolls freely. The mechanical fuel pump for the engine is bad but i got it running just fine pouring some gast down. I ran a new fuel line from tank to valve and back to engine. The new pump should be here today.

    Is there supposed to be a brake attached to the disk up front or anything?

    Also, how do you drive it? Haha which is forward/reverse and neutral on the lever in the middle? I used to have an Aargo but it still had all of its labels. I'll be pumping out and refilling the transmission before i drive it any where.

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  • #2
    Holy crap, with all of us Attex nutso's on here I get to answer?!

    From the pictures, it sure looks like a Superchief model Shawn. The Briggs is a transplanted engine; it would have had a model G50B (484cc) two stroke Chaparral engine from the factory. The CHT gauge in the dash is also a transplant. There should indeed be a mechanical brake caliper on each front axle. It looks like you're missing the right-hand side disk on that sprocket tube. Push the lever in the middle down to shift into forward, pull up for reverse. Don't force the lever, but instead rock the machine back and forth a bit while holding pressure on it. It won't take much effort once things line up. Make sure to replace the fluid in the transmission with automatic transmission fluid, regardless of what comes out. It takes one quart of fluid. Remove both plugs on the back of the transmission and fill through the top plug until it runs out the bottom plug. That's one quart.

    She looks like she's had some water sitting in the bottom of the tub for some time. I'd check over things really well (bearings, tight chains, condition of the frame) before venturing too far from home. Rusty chains and sprockets will wear each other quite quickly and just leads to more carnage. Your drive belt is a bit too narrow, too. Since you're running a different engine and likely a different center-to-center distance than original I can't help you on length, but you should be running a 1-3/16" top width belt on there. That'll help get a bit more low end grunt out of that clutch.

    So, how soon 'till you yank the 4-stroke?
    Last edited by hydromike; 03-15-2016, 08:29 AM.
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    • #3
      Yup: Superchief. The motor mount and driven clutch give it away. Probably a '76 by the orangy body. The serial number should be on the top of the side frame rail near the right rear. The larger numbers are the manufacture year. This should be a nice project.
      Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

      (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

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      • #4
        OK Uncle Don, school us on the clutch and motor mount thing.
        sigpic

        My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
        Joe Camel never does that.

        Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

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        • #5
          Uncle Don; ugh.

          The Superchief and possibly the Spirit (only ever seen one) are the only machines with the style motor mount that has the angle sticking up in the front of the engine (arrow). The Tomahawk had the Salsbury counter-weight style clutch (other arrow). The Spirit didn't have a reverse lever (other other arrow).

          Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

          (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

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          • #6
            Man you guys are good! I got it running and drove it around for about 10 minutes today before i broke the right drive chain. I lubed them up and pushed it on a trailer, and pushed it into my garage so i thought the chains might be ok. I also pumped out the transmission, refilled it with fresh ATF, and greased all the bearings. I would say the max speed was 20mph.

            Soooo where can i get new chains? and the right sized belt? I'd like to replace them all. I don't imagine those disk brakes are too important, pulling the levers back seems to slow the machine down... until a chain breaks

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            • #7
              Looks like i'll need some #50 chain, would 50ft do it? I found this on Ebay but i know nothing about chain quality, do i need any special #50 chain or master links?

              50 Roller Chain 50ft New from Factory w 5 Free Connecting Links | eBay

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              • #8
                With chain, you pretty much get what you pay for: the cheaper stuff wears out quickly and starts chewing up your sprockets. Diamond and US Tsubaki are both good, but not cheap. 25 feet will do a Superchief. I usually buy chain from Motion Industries, but you can most likely find it cheaper somewhere. You'll just need four master links. Good Luck!

                https://www.motionindustries.com/pro...p?sku=00151669
                Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.

                (6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far

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                • #9
                  Thanks Don! I just ordered 30ft of Tsubaki RS50- RIV and a pack of 5 links. I'll order that special chain tool also and watch some videos on making chains.

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                  • #10
                    I got the 4 new chains on. One i accidentally ordered was nikel plated but i think it should be ok. I had alot of trouble with trying to get the passenger side front chain lined up with the exact same number of links, i had to use one of the half links. Should i be using the front slide adjusters to keep the chain tight? Or are they just there to keep it from dragging the tub? The rear chains i have pretty tight, i am not sure how tight they should be.

                    It drives good, but when stopped holding back one level and pushing the other forward will actually cause those tires to spin while turning, should it be that hard to skid itself around? The belt that is on there is 1 1/4" and 46.5" long, i ordered a 1 3/16" and 45 inch long. Do you guys thing that is closer? The belt thats on there seems a little big and i cant slide the motor back much more without hitting the tub.

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                    • #11
                      Don should chime in here, but I believe you have a 910 series driven clutch on there and will need a 780 series driven. Then the 1-3/16 belt would be good and the driven would be smaller. The 910 series clutch used an 1-1/4 belt? Unless you're not running a 780 Drive unit.
                      sigpic

                      My new beer holder spilled some on the trails - in it's hair and down it's throat.
                      Joe Camel never does that.

                      Advice is free, it's the application that costs.

                      Comment

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