Fiberglass mesh and ABS goo

[Vezdekhod]

Have been reading through all of the threads regarding ABS repairs and have a couple of questions about it that I couldn't find the answers to in the body of any of the threads:

Which works better for making goo, acetone or MEK? Which of the two seems to make a better bond to the original hull?

When you guys describe soaking fiberglass mesh in goo, which fiberglass material do you use? Fiberglas matt? Woven fiberglass cloth? That fiberglass mesh tape that is used with drywall? Any or all of it, depending on the size/thickness of the repair?

What is the typical rate of cure for slurry/goo? I understand that thin layers of it are better than thick, but what is a thin layer - 1/16th of an inch or less? More? (want to build up the corners where the metal plates were and would like to have an idea of just how thick I can go while building up layers and the time in between applications)

I have approximately 60 pounds of 1/16" milled glass fiber. Would it be wise to mix a given, proportional quantity of this material into the slurry for making an even stronger, ABS-based material? Thoughts?

Lastly, have any of you used the bulk, Lustran ABS pellets that are available on the auction site for making your ABS slurry?

[JoeMeg]

Check this out. Starts at post # 33. I don't have any experience using MEK but Acetone works well. Glass cloth dipped in goo about the consistency of milk. Then it can be covered with a thicker mixture.

http://www.6x6world.com/forums/attex-atvs/24487-joes-252-colt-trail-machine-gadget-4.html

[Vezdekhod]

Thank you, Joe. That really helps me out a lot. I appreciate you taking the time to respond.

[msafi65]

I prefer glad mat as the cloth is more difficult to saturate. I repair RV holding tanks this way and just use the black glue. MEK is outdoor or open door only. I lay a cloth over area to repair and soak with MEK to soften the surface. Goo wont stick to food wrap and I saturate my patches on plastic wrap then apply and work into shape. Removing the plastic pulls up glass a bit but can be brush coated easly. Patches can be stronger than the original material with fiberglass in them. Good luck and wear gloves. That stuff dosent come off forever.

[Vezdekhod]

Thanks again you guys. I rolled the dice and bought several pounds of the pellets that I mentioned in my first post. They arrived yesterday afternoon and I started making goo (with Acetone) as soon as I got home from work. As of this writing, I've got two batches of the stuff dissolving; one is about the consistency and color of skim milk and the other is considerably thicker, but still pliable. Neat stuff. The pellets seem to work well - especially if they are introduced into the Acetone, rather than the other way around.

I'm helping a friend with his 1st generation Attex restoration. He recently re-acquired the vehicle after being forced to sell it in a divorce about 25 years ago. We happened onto it purely by chance. Full restoration; all new bearings, seals, axles, etc... The hull's in pretty bad shape, but I'm confident that we'll be able to get it all sealed up, strong and presentable with the ABS goo and fiberglass. Vehicle is going to be painted, so we're not worried about color match with the goo. That may become an issue if I end up buying the Attex out in Norwalk... still considering that one and want to go out and look at it, but not for that kinda money.

Can anybody tell me if an ST 295 would have a BH or a T-20 transmission in it?

Thanks again, guys.

Mike

[hydromike]

An ST/295 would have a T-20 transmission.

[Vezdekhod]

Thanks, Mike!

[Vezdekhod]

disregard.