Picked Up an Attex 8x8 Military

[ff340fred]

New to 6x6 World. I just picked up an Attex 8x8 military trainer for what I think is a fair price. Problem is, she is cracked up a lot more than the CL photos showed, or was disclosed to me before I made the drive to get it. I probably would have passed on it had I known. I was hoping to not have the tub cracked much, but no such luck. I've seen on here that they are repairable, so I picked it up anyway.

My question: What is the deal with these things always being so cracked up? It doesn't look like it's been hammered; it looks more like if you look at it cross-eyed, it will crack.

Thanks,
Mike

[racerone3]

Hey Mike. Welcome to 6 by 6 world and congratulation on the tank trainer. I've only ever seen one that wasn't in terrible shape and it is assumed that it was sold to a fire department and not a military unit. The two that you will most commonly see in the gallery are mine and hydromike's. Both were absolutely hammered when we got them and took copious amounts of plastic welding to put them back together. Both have re cracked in several spots but are holding up reasonably well after 10 or so years. Neither one is a trailer Queen. I think the main reasons for the cracks are that the machine is stretched out and has way more flex than its six-wheeled counterpart, it also looks like multiple bodies grafted together. You can see distinctive parting lines in the lower tub. They were also molded in a different color than any other ABS bodies and sometimes the coloring affected the strength of the plastic. Post up some pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions. Lots of knowledge around here. Although there aren't many tank trainers these machines were based off an st400, better known as a 6 chain attex which were reasonably common.

[smudvapor]

Hey Mike. Welcome to 6 by 6 world and congratulation on the tank trainer. I've only ever seen one that wasn't in terrible shape and it is assumed that it was sold to a fire department and not a military unit. The two that you will most commonly see in the gallery are mine and hydromike's. Both were absolutely hammered when we got them and took copious amounts of plastic welding to put them back together. Both have re cracked in several spots but are holding up reasonably well after 10 or so years. Neither one is a trailer Queen. I think the main reasons for the cracks are that the machine is stretched out and has way more flex than its six-wheeled counterpart, it also looks like multiple bodies grafted together. You can see distinctive parting lines in the lower tub. They were also molded in a different color than any other ABS bodies and sometimes the coloring affected the strength of the plastic. Post up some pictures and don't hesitate to ask questions. Lots of knowledge around here. Although there aren't many tank trainers these machines were based off an st400, better known as a 6 chain attex which were reasonably common.

I also just acquired one and it is also all busted up. If you look at the Hydro and Racers gallery you can get some good ideas on how to repair them. They both did a lot of work and documented a lot of it. I was going to try to make a new top out of two tops but I want to keep the original rear light so I am going to attempt to put my top back together and make a new bottom out of some other Attex bottoms.

[Nick O.]

My question: What is the deal with these things always being so cracked up? It doesn't look like it's been hammered; it looks more like if you look at it cross-eyed, it will crack.

Congrats on the purchase! Don't quote me on this, but I believe Mr. Attex said it had something to do with the wooden molds used on the 8x8 - and they didn't last.

You will need to reinforce the fuel tank, or else the dash will begin to split after filling it up. Does your machine still have the data tag on the dash? What serial number is it?

[smudvapor]

Congrats on the purchase! Don't quote me on this, but I believe Mr. Attex said it had something to do with the wooden molds used on the 8x8 - and they didn't last.

You will need to reinforce the fuel tank, or else the dash will begin to split after filling it up. Does your machine still have the data tag on the dash? What serial number is it?

Mine doesn't have the original data plate but I know what the serial number is and I am having a data plate duplicated.

[ff340fred]

Thanks to all. I will try to address everyone's questions so far in this post here. I'll try to get some photos posted ASAP once I get 'er off the trailer on my days off. It seems to be pretty complete, and at a quick glance looks pretty good, however I think the engine is wrong. It's an Arctic Cat/Kawasaki 339. I'll try to get that going but will most likely upgrade to a larger 4-stroke eventually. I don't anticipate doing any body or frame work until after the winter, but I will probably pull the motor and T-20 and go through them first. I've researched a bunch and have learned a lot about repairing ABS plastic since I picked it up, but I will definitely be looking for others input and will be searching for what others have had success with. My dash does have a crack already (at fuel tank attachment), so I will definitely reinforce that, and it does have the data plate and is #33.

Thanks,
Mike

[racerone3]

Congrats on the purchase! Don't quote me on this, but I believe Mr. Attex said it had something to do with the wooden molds used on the 8x8 - and they didn't last.

You will need to reinforce the fuel tank, or else the dash will begin to split after filling it up. Does your machine still have the data tag on the dash? What serial number is it?

I've seen three different fuel tank configurations and none have had issues with the dash cracking that you speak of

[ARGOJIM]

I also just acquired one and it is also all busted up. If you look at the Hydro and Racers gallery you can get some good ideas on how to repair them. They both did a lot of work and documented a lot of it. I was going to try to make a new top out of two tops but I want to keep the original rear light so I am going to attempt to put my top back together and make a new bottom out of some other Attex bottoms.

I do not know how to repair ABS yet though it will be coming. Scott I'm wondering if the best thing would not be a sister tight joint on the inside of the body? The all look as if they broke at the same spot, and the same pieces. The sistering would give both the body and the joint support and could be done with a lot of repair goo and a spread out patch panel inside while just dressing up the outside and looking almost un touched with out a bulge. Lower would of course be more noticeable but should still work.

Racer, this machine has the nasty dash crack in it.

ff340fred, nice score, that makes for 3 potential Trainers back out on the trail. They are quite capable.

[Nick O.]

I've seen three different fuel tank configurations and none have had issues with the dash cracking that you speak of

They split around the brackets that hold up the tank. Our fire department tank trainer only has one crack, and it's at the fuel tank. Even my Superchief racer with a poly body cracked so bad on the dash that my filler neck broke in half, and drenched me with fuel mid-race. That was a fun one.

[ff340fred]

Photos

[ff340fred]

Photos20191208_153413.jpg20191208_153852.jpg20191208_153948.jpg20191208_153957.jpgDSC00132.jpg

[ff340fred]

More photos.

[racerone3]

I also just acquired one and it is also all busted up. If you look at the Hydro and Racers gallery you can get some good ideas on how to repair them. They both did a lot of work and documented a lot of it. I was going to try to make a new top out of two tops but I want to keep the original rear light so I am going to attempt to put my top back together and make a new bottom out of some other Attex bottoms.

Scott, didn't know you had picked one up. you would need 3 uppers to make a tank body (hydromike has laid it out/ documented somewhere)

[racerone3]

Looks like most of the typical cracks (sadly) patch her up and have some fun. engine is not original... who cares. I have a briggs in mine and it is a lot of fun. yours is early (by serial number)but hung around with the military long enough to have the second (front) hoop added to the roll cage. originally they were the back hoop and the bar to front center, then the front hoop was added...... then outer bars were added between the front and rear hoop

[smudvapor]

Scott, didn't know you had picked one up. you would need 3 uppers to make a tank body (hydromike has laid it out/ documented somewhere)

Yea, I know, I have the body's all ready to go. It will be a while until I get to it, I have to finish the Camel first. Working on it right now.