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I am working on an old Attex with a 6000 transmission 1 inch shaft. The driven clutch is a skinny belt type. I am trying to run with an engine that has a drive clutch for a t-20. It barely goes, and the engine has to rev out alot to get it going. Its like at 7 grand and going 10mph. How hard is it to convert the 6000 to a wide driven clutch? Can someone give me some tips on what machine work or keyway modifications are needed? Any tips at all would be much appreciated!
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The 6000 and the T20 use the same model driven clutches, but the Baker/Hill is a 1" shaft and the T20 is 7/8". If you can find a 1" clutch the right width, it should replace the older speed-sensative unit without too much trouble.
I don't think your problem is because of the clutch being used on the wrong transmission, but maybe a worn-out clutch or the wrong belt. I think Larry has a "how-to" article on this site for taking apart the 7000, and the 6000 is going to be almost the same down to the driven clutch.Stuck in the seventies- not in the swamp.
(6) Attex, a Hustler, a Super Swamp Fox, (2) Tricarts, (3) Tri-sports, a Sno-co trike, 3 Dunecycles, and a Starcraft! ...so far -
trans?
i'll bet on a greasy secondary belt/clutch or a dead belt..Originally posted by Don View Post
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I would agree with Don and amphiman that your belt is probably to blame. Maybe you check or not but take a look and make sure the clutches are cycling through. If the belt is all the way in clutch at top end (near crankshaft) then maybe a drive or driven probablem. If the belt is near top edge of clutch on top end then probably the belt wrong size in length, not width. What width belt do you have?
By the way, if that the attex with fatcats, nice ride?
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attex
weak/bad spring on 2 nd clutch?
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Thanks!
I appreciate the replys. At the moment the carb seems to be plugged again, may have to get the old gas tank coated or replaced. Back to the belt/clutch problem... The belt looks ok, and measures slightly under 7/8 width. I have another belt that looks newer and measures 7/8+ wide. The belt is kinda a pain to change, but doing it soon. I now know why people have a second belt hanging over the shaft ready for use.
I am stuck on the thought that this problem is because the engine clutch used to drive a 1 1/4 wide belt, and I am trying to use a 7/8 wide belt. I gather from what you guys are saying, the drive clutch will squeeze in enough and be ok? I plan on getting it running again and observe the clutches with the wheels off and throttle on!
Larry, thanks for the comments on the fatcat Attex! It is as all done and reliable as an old 2 stroke can be! I am trying different carbs and settings to refine it some. I am starting to get crazy and wet sand it!
The machine I am rebuilding is part of a "They just followed me home" group. Over a couple years I got (2) st300d's, 295 wolf and 208tt all in poor condition. I didn't know till recent of the non compatability in these! I am determined to get 1 or 2 of these going!Comment
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in a clutch.,,
salisbury used to make a variable width clutch for belt sizes , i have a few of those here for a 2 cycle...... there were 2 settings on it too
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Amphiman1, I am interested in knowing more about this clutch. Do you have any pic's? About how much $? Either here or PM is good!Comment
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in a clutch....
Yes i can get u picts, in both positions too, and it's /they are for 2 or 4 cycle, 1" shafted too. As well as 1
" tapered shaft ones too *** NONE 4 sale***
Seems they are rather rare... The snap ring that holds the moveable part of the clutch a has 2 positions. to accomodate a larger or smaller belt, one day i noticed it by accident when i was rebuilding one,, I though "how cool!!"Last edited by Amphiman1; 04-12-2009, 06:22 AM.Comment
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